Right rear wheel locked up ‘21 rtv1140x. 129hrs

I’m on a fishing trip for a couple days. The throttle cable from motor to linkage to pedal cable needed ordering. Will be in on Friday. Start sat. I’ll be able to answer your question. Thanks. Mike
OK, latest update. I’ve gone through the adjustment process in detail and there’s a fine line between the low idle and the high RPMs. There’s only so much articulation in the connecting arm that goes to the detent arm where either you get low idle or you get a top end RPM without Changing the geometry, you can only have so much either I give up on high-end and have a low idol or I give up on having a low idle and I get the RPMs I want. I’ve been over it six or eight times and there’s just no more adjustment to be had. I did take a little bit more out of the actual foot panel to allow to go farther to the floorboard, which gives me a little bit more throw to achieve higher RPMs so my top speed is now 20 to 21 mph which I think I’m going to call Good I was able to climb up a 10° slope with four people in it in 2 Wheel Dr. without too much trouble at all. Should I call it good at this pointyour thoughts?
 
What your running into most likely is the push pull cable that attaches to the peddle on one end and the bellcrank at the other is just slightly out of wack. You always want the bellcrank to rest in the detent at the highest possible peddle. The way you adjust this is to loosen the clamp that holds the end of the push pull cable and move the cable either forward out or rearward in under the clamp. Note that it is the outer sheath that you are moving... could just be one end that needs moved in or out or could be both ends. When it is correct you should have quite alot of slack in the little slip on the fuel pump governor control cable at idle.
 
What your running into most likely is the push pull cable that attaches to the peddle on one end and the bellcrank at the other is just slightly out of wack. You always want the bellcrank to rest in the detent at the highest possible peddle. The way you adjust this is to loosen the clamp that holds the end of the push pull cable and move the cable either forward out or rearward in under the clamp. Note that it is the outer sheath that you are moving... could just be one end that needs moved in or out or could be both ends. When it is correct you should have quite alot of slack in the little slip on the fuel pump governor control cable at idle.
Hello by best Kabota tractor friend. I’m really ok with 21 mph and low end power intact for now. Between rebuilding the hst and freeing up the brakes and getting throttle correct (ish). I got to move on to lights, winch, life’s other projects. I can’t thank you enough for your essential help with something so foreign to me. When I return to this and or have any other challenges. I will return. Thank you again. Mike
 
Yes sir your welcome. Now just incase there are others following i will close with just one more comment for posterity.
Always correct the linkage adjustments and check high idle rpm before tearing into your hst. Always begin at the peddle disconnected from the push pull cable and adjust the cable sheath end until it will attach to the peddle at its uppermost position. Then proceed with the hst speed rod and throttle.
 
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