Right rear wheel locked up ‘21 rtv1140x. 129hrs

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aurthuritis said:
Ok then you have the later model. The procedure i gave earlier was for the former old model so as far as the coast valve.please disregard...sorry...
Your model there is a plug on the side rear of your transmission that has an anti tamper sleeve crimped on it. Take off the sleeve and adjust the stem. Or you can purchase an aftermarket coast plug for this model. It definitely should not stop suddenly. Make sure your brakes are released completely. It should roll easy with the shifter in neutral
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I knew something wasn’t right. Not that you were wrong just changed hydrostatic. I’ll try to adjust as the shop told me and we will see. In neutral I can push it easily for as big as it is. Thank you for clarifying. All this work and it ended with sticky brake levers and some over adjusted internal brake system. Better than 7k$. It’s still wouldn’t have corrected it ironically. You’ve been great. Update later today. Cheers
 
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Update. Factory adjustment works great. Grabs just slightly now. Last hurdle is how do I get more than 12 mph. I’ll check for stretched cable in the morning. Shop got cold when I left the fire open for test drive🤓. There is a pressure adjustment somewhere that give more to end vs torque? Fine tuning phase. Thanks for all your time. Invaluable
 
for speed the best you can do is get the control relationship into perfect adjustment and make sure your governor is set for no less than 3600 rpm 3800 no load works best. I can step you through the adjustments process if you want.
 
I think you can get a cheap laser tach? Harbor freight maybe? Just make sure you get crank speed. With a factory spec transmission and engine rpm set to factory spec my rtvx1100c will do 25 on slight grade. With a little larger tires i now get 28mph
 
I’m not sure about this harbor freight tack. But with the thing jacked up in the air in neutral looks like it’s idling at 1450 and Max RPM is about 3400. It’s hard to get a steady reading, but that’s the number that keeps coming up regularly if I can get the position right for for the laser

I’m using the crank pulley with a reflective tape on it and use a stick the hammer down the throttle and crawl under it. I’m not sure how to increase the RPMs if that’s truly 3400.
 
That fits your symptoms. You don't need the transmission in gear for this. Raise the bed and lock it up find the fuel injection pump then with the engine off peg the throttle peddle to the stop. Then look at the throttle control lever on the injection pump and see if it is against the high stop. Let me know
 
Hi. I backed off the governor stop and tightened the cable a little. Now low idle went up to 1800 and so did top rpm’s. Getting maybe 18mph wheels off the ground. Guy on you tube has a 23 2 seater and says he gets 30 stock setting wheels up. What settings am I missing. Is the idle too high? I can only do so much with the linkage. I can’t believe you’re sticking with me. Thank you. Also rechecked for rear wheel drag from hydrostatic pump. Zero so it’s not either braking system dragging (original issue). Just feel there is more to get. It’s not a sand rail. I get that but if I can get 20+ I’ll take it and quit (with power)✌️🙏
 
No problem. Take a real good look at the throttle control lever on the pump. Forget about the cable and peddle for now. Lets get you tu understand how the governor works without the linkages. On the lever you will see two screws..one sets on a stop at idle..this is the idle set screw and is ok..then there is another similar screw that sets on a stop when the throttle lever is held against it...this is the high idle screw. When you get familiar with those let me know. Please don't adjust anything untill we get the understanding of the parts.
 
aurthuritis said:
No problem. Take a real good look at the throttle control lever on the pump. Forget about the cable and peddle for now. Lets get you tu understand how the governor works without the linkages. On the lever you will see two screws..one sets on a stop at idle..this is the idle set screw and is ok..then there is another similar screw that sets on a stop when the throttle lever is held against it...this is the high idle screw. When you get familiar with those let me know. Please don't adjust anything untill we get the understanding of the parts.
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Good evening
I am familiar with those parts/screws. I did open the high stop screw as my was holding the top rpm and the cable was too loose to take advantage of that adjustment so I tensioned it a few turns so when you hit the pedal it begin to move s as well as allowed for more rpm’s. May be just a little too tight as is probably not allowing it to return to the low rpm set screw now is my guess. I got the rpm’s up and I understand the stops but don’t understand the top speed being low. As I said I did get 3+ mph. But still way under 20 with wheels up and hammer down. Short answer is I do understand those screws (thanks you tube see link) and I can put the high stop back if you recommend it (2 turns I think). I can easily put it back where it was. 10 min fix.
Thank you

 
Great. Before i can start the other adjustment of the control relationship we need a positive confirmation of the high idle without the cable attached to the throttle. Once that 3600 to 3800 rpm is established without the control link connected we can proceed with the rest of the adjustments. We will make all adjustments in a set order or it wont work. Should take you less than an hour. Please confirm the high idle without linkages conected against the stop.
 
copy that. My wife’s father is not expected to make it through the day at 96 + years old. It’s0715 pdt here. I may get pulled away at some point but i 100% understand your instructions. Thanks so much. More to come.
 
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