New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again

I just got my repair manual out for the 1100 and from my old 900 manual.
The rear axle section is a joke.
All it says is....When reassembling.........Align the master spline of propeller shaft and rear axle shaft then replace the boot ban.
Really gona be hard folks if you do not mark the shafts before you take it apart.
Because the wheel side u joint is so hard to see once its in the rear axle bracket assembly.
So everybody doing this should remove the boot band near the tranny side slide it down and mark the two shafts together as to not make this easy mistake.
You would think it would only go together one way to start with.

Thanks much Mark.

This should be pinned up as Mark said.

Art
 
The manual is poor that is for sure. I would be sure to use a mark that can't come off or rub off till you want it to... ha, ask how I know.................. bordercollie
 
bordercollie said:
The manual is poor that is for sure. I would be sure to use a mark that can't come off or rub off till you want it to... ha, ask how I know.................. bordercollie
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ohhh noooo......you made that mistake to?

I know I probably would have to.
I would be so mad at myself.....you would here me way down there from Michigan.

Art
 
Thanks mark, I'm still scratching my head a lil-bit. I printed the picture in the link and I may be making it harder than it really is. Does the double space spline line up on top , bottom, side, or does it even matter?
 
OK the easiest wat to do this is look at the shaft coming out of the trans.look at the yoke closest to the trand and line it either 90degrees up or paralell to the ground. then look at the yoke inside of the axle closest to the wheel and line that up the same way.Its the matter of having the 2 yokes aligned like you see in the image.Inside at trans up and down and outside at the wheel side up and dopwn.This is what keeps them in sync.any other way it will vibrate your azz off while driving.I went through this with 6 tear downs in a week trouble shooting it.There is a spline missing on the trans side but no markings or missing spline on the wheel side to sync.If you need further explination let me know.


sorry for typos its late and im tired
 
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Art454 said:
ohhh noooo......you made that mistake to?

I know I probably would have to.
I would be so mad at myself.....you would here me way down there from Michigan.

Art
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Well, sorta Art. I first used one of those yellow wax markers . And could just hardly,barely make it all out and so I put a good scratch on there. Then,when I went to push the shaft into the transmission the gear plates weren't lined up anymore so I did the push, turn push ,turn etc routine and it all went back in like clockwork. reminded me of cracking a safe--at least on TV. ha- I hadn't really cracked a vault but felt like I had after that. :) bordercollie
 
bordercollie said:
Well, sorta Art. I first used one of those yellow wax markers . And could just hardly,barely make it all out and so I put a good scratch on there. Then,when I went to push the shaft into the transmission the gear plates weren't lined up anymore so I did the push, turn push ,turn etc routine and it all went back in like clockwork. reminded me of cracking a safe--at least on TV. ha- I hadn't really cracked a vault but felt like I had after that. :) bordercollie
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Ya I think that would be normal there.

No mess up there I would thing just the way it goes if you take the tranny side out and reinstall. The plates drop outa place and you have to turn and push till the plates line up again.
I did not look at the trans. section of the manual to see what goes on in there. The manual sucked so bad about the doing the rear driveshaft I put it back away.
Not gona dig it outa there just to look at that.....way to much digging to get to the manual......lol
Pay almost 100 bucks for a repair manual and they don't give you much there on doing this job....sorta makes me mad really.

On the front they give you all kinds of stuff...but not on the back.

Art
 
Also remember most shop manuals are designed for mechanics who have a lot of working knowledge of the products.Even auto manuals are tough to follow.I am one of the luckier ones as there isnt much I can to or figure out plus I do make my shares to the kubots dealer when in doubt.But I have saved hundreds doing things by myself.Why pay outragious labor costs when you can do it yourself.It may take a bit lnger but you gain a lot in the end in case it happens again.Plus with all of the members here and the prpblems we all had we can guide you through 90 percent of the problems you come across.When I first joined this forum I didnt know a whole lot about the TRV but now im very comfortable doing just about anything on it.My only hold back on a lot of things as in accessorys is the Nobama economy. I have no money lol.
But we all do what we can and myself Ill look at an image and design or make my own things.Its amazing what you can make for 20% of the kubota costs.
 
PLus if you are comfortable doing it you can manually line up the yoks and use a small die grinder to add yout own line up marks on the spline which will not hurt a thing.I use my machine for more than it should be used as in over loading it with wood,plowing and pulling a large trailer for junk and other stuff so I keep 2 u joints on hand at all times just in case.I plan on blowing up at least 1 joint a year.RTV = Army tank here it goes through everything and have had at 1 time needed a backhoe to pull it out of the mud i burried it so bad and deep.
 
Thanks for the pictures of the press bordercollie, Now I need to know if there is a cheaper carrier bearing for the 4x4 drive shaft?
 
scotto2004 said:
Thanks for the pictures of the press bordercollie, Now I need to know if there is a cheaper carrier bearing for the 4x4 drive shaft?
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Sure thing scotto2004. Many members just got theirs to pop out with a rubber mallet ( as to not damage the end of the shafts), but a few members like me and Mark, had ones that were stuck . I am afraid that the carrier bearing is a Kubota thing. Mark has a recent post on it. $ 60 now or in the neighborhood of that. Good Luck and just ask if you need anything. We are family here. bordercollie
 
Nothing cheaper in carrier bearings.Its a 20 mm metric inside dia and a bastard size.I check everyplace I knew of um here and even had a friend check places in Detroit.Even Detrout bsll bearing is 57 bucks so only a 3 buck savings and for the 3 bucks you at least get new mounting plates from Kubota.
 
kubota rtv 900 2008

I am a new member and have been reading post for hours on how to replace the left rear u joint on my 2008 Kubota rtv 900. Maybe I'm not to smart but no one has said how to remove just the outer joint. I have read that you do not have to remove the inner joint and that it is a two piece splined axle. I have got it jacked up, wheel off hub off but how does the axle come out? It would have to come out from the front but I don't know how. I bought this rtv new and it only has 265 hrs on it. I can see the outer seal and it looks ok. I removed the boot clamps and slid it back and forth and can see the spline and collar, Everything looks great except extreme play in outer joint. Please help and thank you very much, CaptDon.
 
Capt, welcome to the forum. I hate to say it but you will need to take the rear "bumper" off . The inner and outer joints just slide together . Many folks replace both sides at the same time since both sides are exposed . Be sure and mark them before you separate the inner and outer. The inner ones are easy to replace since the area is already exposed . The hard part is all the work to get the "bumper off and the joints out if they are stuck. If you need it, I have a link I can send you showing it in the manual. just private message your email address and I will send it to you. Anyway the inners will just hang there from the transmission when you take off the "bumper" assembly and that will have the outers with it as it comes off. bordercollie
 
I also wanted to add that you can go to the Messicks Eqt site and get a look at the RTV parts manual for the machine. The pages can be emailed to you. An awesome service and it is free. :) Very nice to have a detailed look at what goes where and a part # too. bordercollie
 
Thanks a lot, it wasn't bad at all. It's all apart, axles came out easy, the hot wrench took out the joints easy also. Found exact joint with lifetime warranty at Autozone for $7, one in and back together, tomorrow will finish and reinstall bumper and axles. Again thank you very much.
 
That is great to hear CaptDon. :) Good job and it is a great feeling to save all that money the dealership would have charged ;) bordercollie
 
CaptDon,
Do you have the autozone part number, and did you have to grind the yoke as discussed with the 397 in this post.
 
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