New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again

Join Date: Jan 2009
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sjcolu

Default Re: rtv 900 costly rear ujoint repair

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I just did thistwo weeks ago. Jack up the rtv and place two jack stands in front of the 2 rear leafs on the supports. place floor jack under rear axle not to lift just for support. remove all nuts from jeaf spring perches (both sides). remove band clamps from inner boots. slowly lower axle now twist the rear axle left to right to seperate the splines from the inner shaft to the outer.these splines only line up one way when going back, to make it easier before seperating take some paint marker and scribe a straight line across both shafts where they connect this will make reassembly very easy. now that the shafts are seperated remove the three bolts holding the inner shafts to the transmission, place a catch can under both sides to catch the trans oil. I lost about half a gallon. take a thin blade screwdriver and remove plates from side of trans, shaft ,bearing and u-joint will all come out as one.To answer your question reassemble joint on inner shaft on both sides then with some pivoting left and right align splines on one side then the other and finish reassembly.Hope this helped</p>
 
Kubota rear ujoint

I just read your post, I do not have the part number right now but I will get it for you, and no, no grinding was necessary.
 
It appears to be a 1-1557DL

Duralast/U-Joint

Price: $8.99
Enlarge Image
Part Number: 1-1557DL
Alternate Part Number: 398
Please let me know if this is correct.
 
Bordercollie,

I Don't remember correctly, but at one time, did you find some greaseable
U-Joints for the Kubota ....

Was it for the shafts or axles, or am I just thinking incorrectly ....

Thanks,
jamie :2gunsfiring_v1:
 
TWO GUNS said:
Bordercollie,

I Don't remember correctly, but at one time, did you find some greaseable
U-Joints for the Kubota ....

Was it for the shafts or axles, or am I just thinking incorrectly ....

Thanks,
jamie :2gunsfiring_v1:
Click to expand...
Hey Jamie. I did get some for the rear ujoints I will need to go back and see the brand. I may have posted it somewhere , but I let all of the paperwork go with the machine when I sold it. One thing to remember on the models that came without them is how will you get to them to grease them after installation. The newer models have an opening under the joint, in the "bumper", a bit larger than a quarter.In my opinion, it would be good to remedy that before putting the bumper back on , with the greasables joints added . It is not a good thing to try and do it from underneath though. I thought with my little hands and a 90, I could do it but, not so.-:drink: bordercollie
 
I am trying to locate some Dana/Spicer equivalent U-joints, be in powertrain/emission's development for 47 years - they are the best.
Looks like the Guy I deal with at Napa can order them for me - $28.00 buckeroo's
ZZZ2D1 - DOOR GUNNER
 
ZZZ, let us know how it works out. Those would be great to add to out collection of aftermarket money savers. :) bordercollie
 
Here is more Data for the collection, also remember no grinding of the yoke's required.
ZZZ2D1/DOORGUNNER

2.498 .984 2.498 .984 DODGE COLT 5-1503X



The Spicer # is 5-1503X
Precision # is 398
NAPA # is 2200081 (Don't think this one has Zerks)
National # is 1-1557
 
U-Joint Style ([Inside or Outside snap ring) OSR
Distance between retaining rings G1 2.498
Cap Outside Diameter D1 0.984
Distance between retaining rings G2 2.498
Cap Outside Diameter D2 0.984
ZZZ2D1/DOORGUNNER
 
Ok you all,
I am a very dedicated/crafty person with lot's of credential's.
I can tell you this unless you have deformed/reworked your Kuboto axle shaft's there is no U-JOINT PERIOD that properly spec's dimension wise within .0100 to the Kuboto U-JOINT. This has been a very detailed/tiring study. I have had hand's on with my caliper, nothing comes close - AUTO ZONE, SPICER, PRECISION, NAPA - ALL OF THEM - 391-397-398 AND LOTS MORE.
You are either crushing your yoke flange or grinding the inside out and thats why you have to keep replacing them.
I have my own shop and hoist in my garage with 50 yrs experience.
I had only one cup that quit taking grease, and am replacing all for the effort of removal -Kubota joint's by the way - bit the bullet 1400 hrs on original.
I can tell you this if you want extended life.
There is alot of incorrect info on here about lubing on here.
You always grease/purge a u-joint till you see the new grease extracting from the seals - this removes the moisture and old grease from the cup and assures new grease to each cup - every 200 hrs at the most - just like changing your oil - you want new product. I use super lube with PTFE - Blows away Amsoil grease - look at the data if you know what to look for..
I believe my only cup failure was because I had to have neck fusion surgery and my dearest wife would not let me put vehicle on hoist or do any maintenance, so she took it to the Kubota dealer for due maintenance for the last 300 hrs - so guess what, does not even look like they greased them.
When I finally was able/allowed to put up on my hoist - saw one rusty/brown colored cup - failure. The rest is I am completely rebuilding the butt end...
 
ZZZ2D1 said:
Ok you all,
I am a very dedicated/crafty person with lot's of credential's.
I can tell you this unless you have deformed/reworked your Kuboto axle shaft's there is no U-JOINT PERIOD that properly spec's dimension wise within .0100 to the Kuboto U-JOINT. This has been a very detailed/tiring study. I have had hand's on with my caliper, nothing comes close - AUTO ZONE, SPICER, PRECISION, NAPA - ALL OF THEM - 391-397-398 AND LOTS MORE.
You are either crushing your yoke flange or grinding the inside out and thats why you have to keep replacing them.
I have my own shop and hoist in my garage with 50 yrs experience.
I had only one cup that quit taking grease, and am replacing all for the effort of removal -Kubota joint's by the way - bit the bullet 1400 hrs on original.
I can tell you this if you want extended life.
There is alot of incorrect info on here about lubing on here.
You always grease/purge a u-joint till you see the new grease extracting from the seals - this removes the moisture and old grease from the cup and assures new grease to each cup - every 200 hrs at the most - just like changing your oil - you want new product. I use super lube with PTFE - Blows away Amsoil grease - look at the data if you know what to look for..
I believe my only cup failure was because I had to have neck fusion surgery and my dearest wife would not let me put vehicle on hoist or do any maintenance, so she took it to the Kubota dealer for due maintenance for the last 300 hrs - so guess what, does not even look like they greased them.
When I finally was able/allowed to put up on my hoist - saw one rusty/brown colored cup - failure. The rest is I am completely rebuilding the butt end...
Click to expand...

Your other post you gave part # and all and now you say they are all .010 to big?
No reason to go to a tenth of a thousands here.....one thousands is plenty good enough for this stuff.
Now you said it was .0100
So you are saying that all the others are 10 thousands of a inch to big or small?

You need to make this clearer as others here have used them with no fitting problems they said.

I have not had to do the job as of yet....but if I have to right info is really needed here...

Thanks
 
Sorry about that typo, its .100 on the span at the clips.
They are either too narrow or too wide by that amount for proper clip placement. Even the spec,s show this and I measured all of them with a digital caliper comparing them to a new Kubota Joint.
The cap diameter is ok .984 for Kubota and .985 for 391, 397, 398 and many others. This issue is where the c-clip set's in the yoke and this must be snug within the inside ear's of the yoke - just measure an OEM compared to any others. It's very apparent. 47 years in vehicle powertrains..
 
Hi Again,
Had a visit with my dealer today to pick up the U-Joint's.
Found out the RTV'S depending on model,serial number and year the U-Joint's are different.
Mine is a 2011 RTV1100CW9, all are the same bigger U-Joint's.
Some RTV1100 and RTV900 have 2 different size's or all smaller U-Joint's.
This could lead to alot of confusion and why other's have been able to find some that work.
I installed all new U-Joint's today, reinstalled outer axle's with new boot's and band's.
I replaced seal's on the HST inner axle flange's and bolted them back on the HST using Locktite 515 gasket eliminator/sealant.
I also used Hi-Tack spray on the sealing edge of the new HST seal's before pressing them back into the flange.
I will reinstall the axle assembly in the AM, no need to hurry, the sealant need's 12 hrs to cure.
I drained all my HST fluid while up on the hoist, changed engine oil and all 4 filter's for a early extensive maintenance also.
I flushed and changed the coolant and installed new belt's last December.
So I should be good to go for a long time without any maintenance barring oil change's and grease and lubing of all cable's.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic extended 5W30 and change the oil every 150 hrs.
Never use's a drop of oil, I also purge all U-Joints and lube all when I change my oil.
 
Hi all,
Well Boatie is running like a clock, smooth and quieter than ever.
While I had it down and waiting for the U-Joints to arrive - I did many
more Mod's.
The storage box that is under the seat, I removed and strategically drilled
several holes in the bottom corner's and center.
I then injected Dow great stuff into the hole's - it took 5 cans - till it came out of the corners - starting at center points.
It had plenty of time to cure, while I completed other things.
I then took Mylar foam tape (self adhesive) and made a seal between the seat
and the storage box where they sandwich when seat is down.
This thing is unbelievable quiet, can barely hear that diesel now.
Overall with the use of Super Lube PTFE and soundproofing, this is better than one would imagine.
 
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