New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again

I removed the axle nut split pin before taking the pics. Also, based on one of the threads here a while ago, I tightened the axle nut to 140 ft-lbs.

As someone said above, I believe I'm dealing with an inner bearing issue, hence the reason the out axle is so loose. I heard the bearing go out a couple days ago. The only real question now is whether or not the applicable axle shaft surface is goobered as well. I'm getting ready to order parts (bearings and seals) from Messick's. After that, I plan to remove the outer axle on this side and take pics as I go.

I know someone's been in here before because both boot rings are gone. So another question is whether or not they reassembled the inner and outer axles together correctly i.e. in phase.

Assuming the above is true that it's a bearing problem only and both u-joints are good, is there any good reason to take the inner axles out?

Thanks again!
 
How many hours are on your machine?.. what year...'05? ... Even though only one joint is going out on my machine ,( a 2011 model), I am replacing them all at the same time. Pepr had to do his at low hrs ...my has 2300+.. the 2005 RTV before that had 2 x replacements- I sold it with 4200+ hours. It is such a pain...to take apart and do this by myself that I look at it like tires.. all 4 at the same time-- that is if they are in the worn state. That is just a call everyone has to make but with the high hours I put on mine and use every day... that figures in my decision.. collie
 
True... if somebody just threw the joints together - on that replacement job before you got it-without phasing them ,then it won't matter how they are lined up now .. Hopefully Kanook's and Marks diagram will come in handy in that case. Good luck and I hope your shafts are still good. . collie
 
bordercollie said:
How many hours are on your machine?.. what year...'05? ... Even though only one joint is going out on my machine ,( a 2011 model), I am replacing them all at the same time. Pepr had to do his at low hrs ...my has 2300+.. the 2005 RTV before that had 2 x replacements- I sold it with 4200+ hours. It is such a pain...to take apart and do this by myself that I look at it like tires.. all 4 at the same time-- that is if they are in the worn state. That is just a call everyone has to make but with the high hours I put on mine and use every day... that figures in my decision.. collie
Click to expand...

I thought it was a 2005, but Messick's says it's a 2006 per the serial number. About 1800 hours IRC (don't hold me to that).
 
OK got it apart, wasn't too hard at all.

Pics of the outer right driveshaft, this is the side that grenaded the inner bearing (more about that later).

Please review these pics and let me know if you think can be reused or am I looking at a new driveshaft (at $165 at Messick's).

Thanks,

IMG_20150609_094228169_HDR%20Large_zpszqdvrxgb.jpg


IMG_20150609_094222573_HDR%20Large_zpsevzbnmq1.jpg
 
And perhaps the bigger issue: do I still have part of the inner bearing in the housing or is the housing boogered up at the inner raceway?

The inner bearing came out in pieces and chunks.

I can't tell if what I'm seeing is part of the outer raceway to the bearing or the boogered up inner bearing surface of the housing. Please review the pics below and let me know what you think. New parts (bearings and seals are due tomorrow.

Thanks,

IMG_20150609_100123975_HDR%20Large_zps3chjig2i.jpg


IMG_20150609_100131937_HDR%20Large_zpszepjqfrd.jpg


IMG_20150609_100159049_HDR%20Large_zps7wpijtkq.jpg


IMG_20150609_100207857_HDR%20Large_zpsf3azhy9m.jpg
 
Go to the first pages of posts of this thread where I started working on mine in May of 2011. ( I think it is the May 27, 2011 post) I have some pictures of the way the areas and shafts should look. We are getting ready to sell our calves ( annual thing) so I will be out some today and tomorrow. also, diesel and a rag will cut out that sludge so you can see if there is any more damage inside there.. bordercollie

edit.. I also made a homemade bearing puller that just whizzed out the stuck bearing- picture of the rigged puller there in the May of 2011 post- was used with a touch of the impact wrench... but not necessary a hand tool would have worked fine.
 
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I zoomed in on your pic an I'm certain you still have part of the bearing in the hub.sinse the u joints don't seam to have grease zerts why not drill an tap the joints and install some? My rhino was going through a set of bearing a year til I drilled an tapped the hubs now the bearing last longer.wouldnt be a bad idea to install some zerts on the rtv hubs too.
 
Drill an tap the hubs in the center an not directly over the bearings that way the grease make it to both inner and outer bearings hope this helps you guys out
 
I would speculate from the pics the shaft is toast.On the axle youll know more once you wash and flush it all out to check for damage.A lot of times even on a slightly damaged surface you can still add a new race and have no issues.If the grease seal fits snugly you may be ok.If the seal fits sloppy you may want to stragetically place some jb weld around the seal section of the rear axle to keep the gunk out.
 
Peanut said:
I zoomed in on your pic an I'm certain you still have part of the bearing in the hub.sinse the u joints don't seam to have grease zerts why not drill an tap the joints and install some? My rhino was going through a set of bearing a year til I drilled an tapped the hubs now the bearing last longer.wouldnt be a bad idea to install some zerts on the rtv hubs too.
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All the u-joints have grease zerks, they just don't show up in the pics above. I greased them all up and the joints are solid; I see no need to replace them.
 
bordercollie said:
Go to the first pages of posts of this thread where I started working on mine in May of 2011. ( I think it is the May 27, 2011 post) I have some pictures of the way the areas and shafts should look. We are getting ready to sell our calves ( annual thing) so I will be out some today and tomorrow. also, diesel and a rag will cut out that sludge so you can see if there is any more damage inside there.. bordercollie

edit.. I also made a homemade bearing puller that just whizzed out the stuck bearing- picture of the rigged puller there in the May of 2011 post- was used with a touch of the impact wrench... but not necessary a hand tool would have worked fine.
Click to expand...

You mean one like this?

IMG_20150609_094239061_HDR%20Large_zpsvtk5flyu.jpg


If so, I got the idea from this thread, and apparently your previous post! This one pulled the outer bearing out like it was pooping it through a goose! :beer-fresh:


Oh, by the way: there was zero, nada, zip, none, no evidence that the Bearing Hub Collar (item #030 in the Messick's D30101 Rear Axle drawing, part #K7561-17830) was installed in either axle! I would have expected it to get eaten and beat up to nothing in the right rear axle, but the left axle hub was in good shape, bearings seem fine, spin freely, look clean. No Bearing Hub Collar to be seen though.
 
I think what Peanut was saying is to drill that axle housing between the inner and outer bearings and install a zerk fitting to be able to add grease to those bearings while everything is assembled. Also John Deere sells what they call Corn Head Grease that is nearly oil but is still grease. It is used a lot for lubracating the rollers on crawlers and dozers and not run out of worn seals
.
Bryce
 
FTG-05 said:
You mean one like this?


If so, I got the idea from this thread, and apparently your previous post! This one pulled the outer bearing out like it was pooping it through a goose! :beer-fresh:


Oh, by the way: there was zero, nada, zip, none, no evidence that the Bearing Hub Collar (item #030 in the Messick's D30101 Rear Axle drawing, part #K7561-17830) was installed in either axle! I would have expected it to get eaten and beat up to nothing in the right rear axle, but the left axle hub was in good shape, bearings seem fine, spin freely, look clean. No Bearing Hub Collar to be seen though.
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Haha. I like that bearing description. Memories of my Daddy was my inspiration on making my bearing remover. Both my Mama and Daddy grew up poor and knew how to make lemonade out of lemons. I wish had paid attention and knew more of what they had tried to teach me. Good job you have going. collie
 
How screwed am I?

IMG_20150610_111253238_HDR%20Large_zpsf6ppp9xj.jpg


Anyone know where you can buy used Kubota RTV 900 parts like a rear axle housing? Messick's wants $475 for a new one, I didn't bother asking how much shipping was. :mad:
 
Uggghh! I was concerned 'bout this being the case when I saw those floppy shafts... You might could check with a machine shop...... collie
 
FTG-05 said:
How screwed am I?

IMG_20150610_111253238_HDR%20Large_zpsf6ppp9xj.jpg


Anyone know where you can buy used Kubota RTV 900 parts like a rear axle housing? Messick's wants $475 for a new one, I didn't bother asking how much shipping was. :mad:
Click to expand...

That's not a bad price since its a Kubota part...that's a big part
 
First off, I want the head of the engineer who designed that Massive Cluster Fork known as the RTV rear axle housing!!!! The only possible way he could have made it harder to reassemble that POS is to make it so the wheels can't be removed!!!!!

You have to have everything lined up perfectly for it to go together. And you have to lift and/or move +60 lbs of axle, u-joints and other crap in order to get everything lined up perfectly!!!!

On the other hand, the one buggaboo that everyone talked about wasn't that big of a deal: correctly phasing the u-joints wasn't all that hard to do nor was it hard to confirm it had been done correctly.

Everything else when smoothly as well: installing all the new bearings and seals, axle nut, wheels etc., all a piece of cake.

I think the next time I do this, I'm going to temporarily install an axle brace near one the ends, then cut the axle housing in two (or three if doing both sides), then install axle flanges to tie the two (or three piece) axle together. Even with making the temp brace, cutting the axle and making the flanges, it would still be easier than fooling around with that stupidly crappy design.
 
I'm glad you got it done. I did mine by myself and also got aggravated as my axles weren't just stuck, but stuck stuck stuck.. I didn't realize that the thing weighed that much but I gave it all I had to finish the job.. If I wasn't so stubborn, I would have probably given up..Did you have to buy the new one or use a machine shop?
Anyways, congratulations ..Well done ! collie
 
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Bought a new axle direct from Messick's. Called Friday PM, had the axle Tuesday by noon or so. Wasn't the cheapest but I wanted the part to arrive when they said it would - and it did. I wish I could remember the name of the guy that I ordered through, he was as good as his word on when it got shipped out and when it arrived.

I had a line on a used axle for $325 from an Ebay seller, but he never responded to my e-mail, so didn't bother with that.

Thanks,
 
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