New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again

bordercollie said:
Hi Art, the Kubota assemblies are really up there in price. K1711-12334 assembly is in the upper 300's and the K1711-12323 is a bit above 300. The ujoints by themselves are right at 100 each so that is 400 for them I am doing all 4 at the same time because I don't want to do this again for a long while.. These are the greaseable ones I'm getting from K. I wonder if the only difference is that the off brand assemblies are sealed and not greasable...???? so that could be why they say they won't fit in the models that have the oem greasable joints??? I dunno but am not taking a chance. I am however, going to take my old joints to the parts place where I have a good buddy so I will at least know about next time ( if there is one). I saw the sealed aftermarket joints on that site I listed for 1/2 of what I am paying for oem and thought I go with the oem and knowledgeable dealer. I know they will fit my 2011. A person could save a ton on these aftermarket assemblies if they would fit their model though .. It really would be nice to get the whole thing for 200 bucks a side.. collie

edit to say that the diagram of the rear joint assemblies are Near the last page of the transmission section. thanks, collie
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That's a shame....if you did not have the XT model you could buy the whole side for 200.00. I bet there's is not greasable u joints though. How many hours on your machine now that they need to be replaced?
 
I have about 2150 hours on this 2011 model . Yea, It made me sick to order those expensive parts... I also heard a wamp wamp noise like when a drive shaft is going out... I sure hope that it was just a chunk of dried mud I heard or the rear joint , and not the new design drive shaft... It has boots on the joints so I can't see them -also I can't feel any slack so maybe there isn't a problem there..... sure hope not..
The aftermarket assembly is something to keep my eye on.
 
I think the sealed u joints are better.Once you grease one of the greasable joints and break the seal it seems they dont last no where as long.The oem joints on may cars seem to last forever because they are sealed so damn good.
 
a common problem with grease able U joints is that some people will use a grease that doesn't have the anti corrosion or high pressure properties needed for service. i have found that if i use a grease approved for front wheel bearings that my U joints last longer. Collie what is different about the assembly from your old model?
 
I'm not sure of the difference between my 2011 900xt and the 05 I had but for the sealed vs unsealed. I do know there is a difference in the transmission performance itself. so I wasn't sure if the assemblies themselves were somewhat different on my 2011 xt model too.Possilby the shafts etc.. I would have liked to seen the two side by side. The description on the aftermarket though says they will not fit an xt.. so my decision is based on that.
 
bordercollie said:
I have about 2150 hours on this 2011 model . Yea, It made me sick to order those expensive parts... I also heard a wamp wamp noise like when a drive shaft is going out... I sure hope that it was just a chunk of dried mud I heard or the rear joint , and not the new design drive shaft... It has boots on the joints so I can't see them -also I can't feel any slack so maybe there isn't a problem there..... sure hope not..
The aftermarket assembly is something to keep my eye on.
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Your '05 U-joints went the first time at around the same number of hours as I recall, and at about twice that the second time. I'm closing in on that number of hours. That's why I've been so interested in what's involved. I just know it's going to happen this summer or next.

I'll be interested to know what you learn about the bearings and seals on this new model compared to what you found on your '05.

Hmmm, if I remember right, your '05 had about 4,000 hours on it when you took it apart the first time, yourself - as I recall you had a dealer do it the first time. The dealer might not have replaced the seals and greased that outer bearing housing when he did the joints.

I tend to replace every disturbed seal and grease everything that needs it when I take something apart that has seals. I also tend to replace circlips.

Fitch
 
Hi Fitch, The local dealer never touched it. He wanted to rip me off at almost double the "should be" price .He didn't know that I had a copy of the rate manual.. provided by a special friend here. I can say it is true "what goes around comes around". That is why I didn't buy the 2011 RTV from him... I did check with him for a price though on both accounts- just for the heck of it. I drove 45 miles on Two Guns advice to buy the 2011 from a dealer he knew and saved $500. The local dealer is 15 miles. Ahh, back to the question.. haha..
On the "05, I had a friend of a friend on the ujoints.Them mostly.. The last time was all by myself. I replaced everything in there-seals, bearings etc.. If I remember right, the seals that I replaced had a special lip specific to Kubota but can't remember for sure..
I haven't gotten the ujoint order yet but will wait on breaking it down till after our bull sale in a week.. too much to do in prep for that. I did use the bota today and worked on fences.. much to be done.. Also bad need to go to Ark and do some work on the old home place.. now mine and too very quiet....Keeping my eye on everything and being cautious. .. collie
 
bordercollie said:
Hi Fitch, The local dealer never touched it. He wanted to rip me off at almost double the "should be" price .He didn't know that I had a copy of the rate manual.. provided by a special friend here. I can say it is true "what goes around comes around". That is why I didn't buy the 2011 RTV from him... I did check with him for a price though on both accounts- just for the heck of it. I drove 45 miles on Two Guns advice to buy the 2011 from a dealer he knew and saved $500. The local dealer is 15 miles. Ahh, back to the question.. haha..
On the "05, I had a friend of a friend on the ujoints.Them mostly.. The last time was all by myself. I replaced everything in there-seals, bearings etc.. If I remember right, the seals that I replaced had a special lip specific to Kubota but can't remember for sure..
I haven't gotten the ujoint order yet but will wait on breaking it down till after our bull sale in a week.. too much to do in prep for that. I did use the bota today and worked on fences.. much to be done.. Also bad need to go to Ark and do some work on the old home place.. now mine and too very quiet....Keeping my eye on everything and being cautious. .. collie
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Yeah, don't get me started on service departments. The local John Deere dealer is excellent. New Holland was ... pretty good ... but is now under new management. Wait and see.

Kubota ripped me off once. Shame on them. Nothing has been to their shop since. Great parts department though. So I buy my parts there.

They recently moved so they are less than two miles from me.

Fitch
 
Collie,
was that a plastic or other gasket material I saw figure 8A? Looks like plastic.

I agree a little sealant on that joint would be a good thing.

Great instructions; http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf This pdf should be in a Drive Shaft Replacement post as a must read for shaft replacement.

Especially liked how they tied up the rear end, without physically removing it, to get at the shafts. Looks like a real time saver.
 
Bordercollie, in regards to sealant or gasket, are you speaking of the seal holder flange to the transmission connection/surfaces to apply sealant?
 
Hi Pepr, I put a permatex sealant suitable for transmissions on the surface where the 3 bolts mount the assembly to the transmission. ( There is no gasket or o ring there-like is on the front differential) and mine had it applied before.
Hi Spudhauler, I don't see a picture on post 8.. I am not sure which one you are speaking of ? Is it the one where I am putting the bearing in? If so, that is a piece of pvc.
I got the expensive little package yesterday. 4 little u joints and seals. I will try it next week if all goes well with my other work. The machine is still working fine and the slack hasn't changed for the worse. but now I am ready but for time. collie
 
REgular ATV sealant works fine.There isnt a gasket where the axle bolts to the trans.Make sure you remove old sealant on the trans and aply a thin film of sealant on the trans and evenly tighten the bolts.
 
So the one special tool for the u-joint replacement is the tool to compress the metal bands securing the boot to the rear shafts. Seems as though somewhere I saw that the tool cost $79. Sorry, I'm not paying that. I'll make a tool before I pay that much for one that will be used maybe 3 times during the rest of my time on this earth.

Open to alternative tool. Please share your thoughts.
 
Maybe one member here has that tool and would agree to "pass it around" for a small deposit and rental fee.
 
Ive done this several times and a heavy duty zip tie works just as well and can be picked up cheap at a local hardware.Ive found the big white ties that are used in HAVC duct work great.Get the ones for 3 or 4 inch pipe and youll be golden.
THey work just as well if not better and you can have a few xtras in case you have a booboo

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Pepr, I used the boot clamps I got from the mom and pop auto parts store here when I did the '05 .They were a metal strap... that I just used my pliers to pull it taut and squeeze it .Edit : It was a long piece- indeed like a cable tie. I used the pliers in sort of a pull it tight position then while still holding the strain on the clamp bend it over with the pliers, hold the pressure with a flat head screwdriver as it is being bent and then flatten the bent strap and use the "little ears" that can be bent down to hold the tail of the clamp. Easy as pie and cheap too. :) collie
 
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