New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again
- Thread starter bordercollie
- Start date
If you could find something around your place to position a hydraulic jack and have the shaft 's "frame" positioned so that it would't move with the force the jack exerts, that might would do it. For example, when I first was trying on my 2005 before I went and got the press of my dad's out of the storage place, I tried using the feed wagon bumper. This thing is heavy- many tons( probably 4) but the shafts were so stuck , it lifted up the feed wagon. Then I got the press. Well good luck !! P.S., Have you tried using a big sledge hammer? Be sure that the tube assembly can't move and that the threads are protected. collie
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
one of the simplest methods ive seen and used over the years instead of brute force is vibration.If you know anyone with a compressor and an air hammer place the nut back on the axle to prevent thread damage and tru using the air hammer.No only does it apply a hammering method but a vibration.Ive seen this method work on many things that would not budge.I hade a 2 inch reviever on my truck that had the pig stuck in it and I tried heat to no avail.Then I used a sledge hammer nope.Wrapped a chain around the pig then around a tree being stupid thinking severe force would remove it.Had 10 foot of slack in the chain hit the gas and came to a sudden stop almost throwing me through the windshield and that still didnt get it to move.Then someone told me the trick of a air hammer and wala 20 minutes of vibration and some penetraiting oil it vibrated and slid right out.It can not hurt to try it and it is just a suggestion.
With all that being said my RTV sits in the garage iin pieces at the moment.Replaced inboard u joints for the 4th time since 2004. Outboard jonts still like new.No idea why the inboard joints take a beating.I broke 2 of the 4 u bolts if thats what you want to call them that hold the bumper to the leaf springs so im waiting on new ones to arrive.I think they are gold plated as they were 17 bucks a piece...Will re install things and change fluids and filters so should be ready for the winter.Even being replaced 2 years ago I had a mustard of a time getting these ones out and next change will result in new rhino axle shafts as the yokes o these are just about done.I wish someone would sell a half shaft but nope they only sell full shafts so they can slip us all the shaft I guess.
Ok Im done with help and my monthly rant.
God bless and as always keep safe and liberal free.
Mark
With all that being said my RTV sits in the garage iin pieces at the moment.Replaced inboard u joints for the 4th time since 2004. Outboard jonts still like new.No idea why the inboard joints take a beating.I broke 2 of the 4 u bolts if thats what you want to call them that hold the bumper to the leaf springs so im waiting on new ones to arrive.I think they are gold plated as they were 17 bucks a piece...Will re install things and change fluids and filters so should be ready for the winter.Even being replaced 2 years ago I had a mustard of a time getting these ones out and next change will result in new rhino axle shafts as the yokes o these are just about done.I wish someone would sell a half shaft but nope they only sell full shafts so they can slip us all the shaft I guess.
Ok Im done with help and my monthly rant.
God bless and as always keep safe and liberal free.
Mark
Ha Mark, you are right about that !! Wish I could help on the fixing of it. Remember to wear red on election day- I am but then I may just try to fool 'em.. collie
Ooooooch !! I know that was extremely painful ! Once when a ladder fell 16 ft with me, my back' s side didn't even look that bad.
Put the nut on even with the shaft and use a piece of 4x4 sideways, to sledge hammer on. It should stay in position. collie
Put the nut on even with the shaft and use a piece of 4x4 sideways, to sledge hammer on. It should stay in position. collie
Upps ,I misread your post. Those hammers have a mind of their own and love to smash fingers. I'm glad though that you got the assembly out. I wish you had a vice to help with this ujoint job . Good Luck . bordercollie
Thanks for the picture. Now my finger hurts too!
OrangeBuggy
Active member
Wow lazya504, that had to smart...hurts looking at it. Get well.
MacGreenie
New member
Rear Axle Success: Thanks to Bordercollie!!!
Thanks to Bordercollie once again for all the background on RTV900 rear axle and drive shaft repair.
I just attempted (and finished) this process myself.
It was a success. And here are some items I can share from my experience:
A dry squeak on each revolution of the right rear wheel was my cue something was amiss. Time to investigate.
Jacked up the rear and placed on jackstands. I’m just not strong enough to hold the whole rig with one hand. Excuse this failing of mine, please.
Undid the Oeteker clamps on the inside of the driveshaft splines first so the shafts would allow the flexibility for separating driveshafts and maneuvering axle housing once the axle was free.
Used a rope to hold up the back part of the axle wishbone accessory while balancing the two axle housing sections on wooden blocks. Remove all spring shackle bolts and the assembly settles nicely on the blocks. A one person job. No crushed fingers. No bad language needed. Drag the assembly free as best you can and go to a convenient work bench to do the rest.
I was able to knock out both shafts with a brass drift. Top shaft in picture dragged inner bearing with it. Bottom shaft inner bearing slid a ways on the shaft while being forced out and then hung up. Top shaft in photo was very rusty in side. Removed outer bearings from axle housing with brass drift also. Did not have the same challenges Bordercollie had with corrosion inside axle housing that made it so hard to free the axles. I do not haul fertilizer, manure or encounter road salt so this saved me much grief. The next picture shows the condition of the outer bearing on the squeaky side: very dry and rusty. Notice the outer seal for this side as well: it was smoothed over due to corrosion on the bearing step/surface that seal rides on. That metal surface was pitted and friction/dirt eventually ate up the seal. Obviously water then got in and killed the bearing and corroded the step on the inside of the hub flange in due course. I was stuck in the mud last year several times and this likely contributed to the demise of the bearings at 950 hours and 10 years of use on my 2006 RTV900. Replaced that hub with a new one so the outer seal will last longer. And yes I am using the new 140 ft pound torque value on those hubs to prevent spline wear. I thought is was the dry squeak of metal on metal in a failed U-joint…but the U-joints were worn but not at the failure point yet. OK, so while I am in there let’s just make everything better was my decision.
So new bearings and new axles were ordered. Bearings and seals from were obtained from Messicks. I ordered new axles from Side by Side Stuff.com thinking they were to be CV axles. I wanted to be the first guy out there to review this new technical modification….but they ended up being regular U-joint style (Demon Brand). Aw, Heck. Gonna’ put them in anyway. Will work on the old ones at my leisure and place on shelf for a spare for future.
Reassembly as per Bordercollie’s very detailed posts from several years back. Sprayed inside of housing with lithium grease. Use never-seize on splines and shafts. Got the joints phased properly so no vibrations experienced. Bolted axle back to spring assembly. Actually was able to line up drive shaft splines and install axle all by my little old self so it can be done by one person if no helpers available. Topped up Hydrostat with about a quart of fluid and was back in business.
Broke her down over a Sunday afternoon over a four hour period. Parts arrived Monday and had her together in about four hours by that evening’s end. Could not have done this in that short a period if those before me had not shared their adventures with the rest of us; so a big shout out to Bordercollie and all the others who made this possible! Thanks ever so much to you all.
Pictures to follow.....
Thanks to Bordercollie once again for all the background on RTV900 rear axle and drive shaft repair.
I just attempted (and finished) this process myself.
It was a success. And here are some items I can share from my experience:
A dry squeak on each revolution of the right rear wheel was my cue something was amiss. Time to investigate.
Jacked up the rear and placed on jackstands. I’m just not strong enough to hold the whole rig with one hand. Excuse this failing of mine, please.
Undid the Oeteker clamps on the inside of the driveshaft splines first so the shafts would allow the flexibility for separating driveshafts and maneuvering axle housing once the axle was free.
Used a rope to hold up the back part of the axle wishbone accessory while balancing the two axle housing sections on wooden blocks. Remove all spring shackle bolts and the assembly settles nicely on the blocks. A one person job. No crushed fingers. No bad language needed. Drag the assembly free as best you can and go to a convenient work bench to do the rest.
I was able to knock out both shafts with a brass drift. Top shaft in picture dragged inner bearing with it. Bottom shaft inner bearing slid a ways on the shaft while being forced out and then hung up. Top shaft in photo was very rusty in side. Removed outer bearings from axle housing with brass drift also. Did not have the same challenges Bordercollie had with corrosion inside axle housing that made it so hard to free the axles. I do not haul fertilizer, manure or encounter road salt so this saved me much grief. The next picture shows the condition of the outer bearing on the squeaky side: very dry and rusty. Notice the outer seal for this side as well: it was smoothed over due to corrosion on the bearing step/surface that seal rides on. That metal surface was pitted and friction/dirt eventually ate up the seal. Obviously water then got in and killed the bearing and corroded the step on the inside of the hub flange in due course. I was stuck in the mud last year several times and this likely contributed to the demise of the bearings at 950 hours and 10 years of use on my 2006 RTV900. Replaced that hub with a new one so the outer seal will last longer. And yes I am using the new 140 ft pound torque value on those hubs to prevent spline wear. I thought is was the dry squeak of metal on metal in a failed U-joint…but the U-joints were worn but not at the failure point yet. OK, so while I am in there let’s just make everything better was my decision.
So new bearings and new axles were ordered. Bearings and seals from were obtained from Messicks. I ordered new axles from Side by Side Stuff.com thinking they were to be CV axles. I wanted to be the first guy out there to review this new technical modification….but they ended up being regular U-joint style (Demon Brand). Aw, Heck. Gonna’ put them in anyway. Will work on the old ones at my leisure and place on shelf for a spare for future.
Reassembly as per Bordercollie’s very detailed posts from several years back. Sprayed inside of housing with lithium grease. Use never-seize on splines and shafts. Got the joints phased properly so no vibrations experienced. Bolted axle back to spring assembly. Actually was able to line up drive shaft splines and install axle all by my little old self so it can be done by one person if no helpers available. Topped up Hydrostat with about a quart of fluid and was back in business.
Broke her down over a Sunday afternoon over a four hour period. Parts arrived Monday and had her together in about four hours by that evening’s end. Could not have done this in that short a period if those before me had not shared their adventures with the rest of us; so a big shout out to Bordercollie and all the others who made this possible! Thanks ever so much to you all.
Pictures to follow.....
MacGreenie
New member
Thank you for sharing your experiences Macgreenie. Those are good pictures and they are appreciated. Did you add a hole for accessing the Hard to get to" grease fittings ? I did that on my 2005 as an after thought- but it requires a big bit or a torch/ plasma cutter while the assemblies are still out . The 2011 came with grease joint access hole- makes all the difference. ( I have yet to have a fit while greasing this model) 
I think I have a picture of the 2011 access point on this thread but not sure. Anyway, thank you again for sharing your experiences . Have a great evening, collie
I think I have a picture of the 2011 access point on this thread but not sure. Anyway, thank you again for sharing your experiences . Have a great evening, collieMacGreenie
New member
Bordercollie,
I did not realize access would be an issue as the grease fittings are angled on my replacement U-joints. I will have to go out and look and see if I can jockey a grease gun in there.
Did not realize you could cut a hole for access. Hmmm, gonna have to look around and see. Excellent point!
Three new pictures with captions in my album show the pitting on the right rear hub surface that likely started this whole corrosion adventure and eventual repair. So there are two new rear hub/flanges in the RTV900 as of this afternoon. All new parts on the rear axle gives one confidence for a reliable future!
Regards, MacGreenie
I did not realize access would be an issue as the grease fittings are angled on my replacement U-joints. I will have to go out and look and see if I can jockey a grease gun in there.
Did not realize you could cut a hole for access. Hmmm, gonna have to look around and see. Excellent point!
Three new pictures with captions in my album show the pitting on the right rear hub surface that likely started this whole corrosion adventure and eventual repair. So there are two new rear hub/flanges in the RTV900 as of this afternoon. All new parts on the rear axle gives one confidence for a reliable future!
Regards, MacGreenie
Attachments
Wow Macgreenie, That is something! I hate you had to go thru that extra expense, but now , you should be good to go. 
Good maintenance and that RTV should last a very long time with the work you have put into it. That torque is a good thing to know as not everyone has access to that information. I'll also take advantage of your post to remind others doing this job for the first time , to use the cotter pins the right size so the castle nut won't work loose over time. Thank you for the great pictures of your work. 
collie
Good maintenance and that RTV should last a very long time with the work you have put into it. That torque is a good thing to know as not everyone has access to that information. I'll also take advantage of your post to remind others doing this job for the first time , to use the cotter pins the right size so the castle nut won't work loose over time. Thank you for the great pictures of your work. collieMacGreenie
New member
Boot clamps and Lisle tool
Well this is the job that never ends. I tried stainless steel ratchet straps on the rear driveshaft expansion boots but they were too thin and spindly so I took them off. I've got the Lisle tool and removed the cam from the tool as per the directions on the package so I could give the Kubota presized clamp straps the gentle squeeze.
I ordered Kubota clamps from Messicks and also the right sized cotter pins for the rear wheel castle nuts to prevent the torque on the rear wheel flange from working it's way off.
The boot clamp plier works very well you just need to squeeze very gently or you over squeeze the clamp. I bought an extra clamp so I could booger one up. And of course I did.
Other than that the repair is now complete seal boots and castle nuts on nice and tight to prevent any wobble.
Thank you, you've been a great audience.
Well this is the job that never ends. I tried stainless steel ratchet straps on the rear driveshaft expansion boots but they were too thin and spindly so I took them off. I've got the Lisle tool and removed the cam from the tool as per the directions on the package so I could give the Kubota presized clamp straps the gentle squeeze.
I ordered Kubota clamps from Messicks and also the right sized cotter pins for the rear wheel castle nuts to prevent the torque on the rear wheel flange from working it's way off.
The boot clamp plier works very well you just need to squeeze very gently or you over squeeze the clamp. I bought an extra clamp so I could booger one up. And of course I did.
Other than that the repair is now complete seal boots and castle nuts on nice and tight to prevent any wobble.
Thank you, you've been a great audience.
Attachments
Great pictures Macgreenie. That snug fit on those straps should keep the trash out and then you will have the tool . I was able to use a pair of 20 year old "pinching" fence pliers on the straps I bought at the farm/auto parts store and was fortunate in that . ( they are good for pinching fingers too)
Let us know how it goes on down the roadhopefully giving you long and faithful service.
My u joints have a very small amount of slack at 3200 + hrs . I'm hoping the red high temp grease I use will give mine an extra long life this time around. God bless ya . bordercollie
That snug fit on those straps should keep the trash out and then you will have the tool . I was able to use a pair of 20 year old "pinching" fence pliers on the straps I bought at the farm/auto parts store and was fortunate in that . ( they are good for pinching fingers too)Let us know how it goes on down the roadhopefully giving you long and faithful service.
My u joints have a very small amount of slack at 3200 + hrs . I'm hoping the red high temp grease I use will give mine an extra long life this time around. God bless ya . bordercollie