RTV X1100C with snowblower

bordercollie said:
I'm paying $75 for liability alone thru State Farm for the roxor. My RTV was about the same but add the complete package and it mushrooms to almost 500 a year.I think I paid 300 complete for the RTV . I'm considering taking a chance and just doing liability this year.
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My wife got a quote for about 500 from State Farm yesterday. We are going to call up the company that aurthuritis suggested to see if they will give us a better deal. I am off to Milwaukee this morning to see the sports show with some of my old Buddies.
 
Westfield said:
I forgot to tell you guys my first bad experience owning a Kubota. I went and bought two new 5-gallon diesel containers. nozzle barely fit in a gas can made for diesel. The problem is there is no way to relieve the pressure while you're pumping it into the can so when you pull the nozzle out or move the fuel nozzle diesel fuel sprayed all over me. Long story short I had to race home to clean up. Once I got home I realized I did not secure the gas cans properly and one tipped over and was leaking gas all over the back of my truck. And then I got to get yelled at by my wife cuz everything I was wearing smell like diesel fuel. Oh well
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If I'm understanding you correctly, you're pouring out of a (plastic?) fuel can that's not vented.
What I do or have done:
If the can doesn't have a vent, once you start to pour, loosen the connector where the can meets the nozzle just a little bit. You'll hear air being sucked in to alleviate the vacuum. Don't open so much that fuel comes out.


Buy gas can vents. You can get on Amazon or other places. I believe these are the ones I got.
https://www.amazon.com/JSP-Manufacturing-Chilton-Rotopax-Multipack/dp/B00U7YLKNU/?th=1
It says You will have to drill a 31/64" (one size below 1/2") hole into the can. I used a 1/2" paddle bit which created a much cleaner hole and it works fine.


If you have crappy spouts, replace them with new, old school type straight through spouts. I use the EZ-Pour brand. Here's an example.
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Pour-Gas-Can-Replacement-Spout/dp/B06WRRXG1X/
The one in the link has 2 base cap sizes so it fits every brand I have (EXCEPT Wedco). With the 2 spouts, the large one is high volume so it works quickly when you want a lot of fuel quickly.
 
bczoom said:
If I'm understanding you correctly, you're pouring out of a (plastic?) fuel can that's not vented.
What I do or have done:
If the can doesn't have a vent, once you start to pour, loosen the connector where the can meets the nozzle just a little bit. You'll hear air being sucked in to alleviate the vacuum. Don't open so much that fuel comes out.


Buy gas can vents. You can get on Amazon or other places. I believe these are the ones I got.
https://www.amazon.com/JSP-Manufacturing-Chilton-Rotopax-Multipack/dp/B00U7YLKNU/?th=1
It says You will have to drill a 31/64" (one size below 1/2") hole into the can. I used a 1/2" paddle bit which created a much cleaner hole and it works fine.


If you have crappy spouts, replace them with new, old school type straight through spouts. I use the EZ-Pour brand. Here's an example.
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Pour-Gas-Can-Replacement-Spout/dp/B06WRRXG1X/
The one in the link has 2 base cap sizes so it fits every brand I have (EXCEPT Wedco). With the 2 spouts, the large one is high volume so it works quickly when you want a lot of fuel quickly.
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Thanks this is a very good option lots of valuable information here thank you very much.
 
Now I see why they called these machines the turtle. On the road in front of my house I am cruising along at 25 and then the road went up to about a 30 degree hill, machine went from 25 to 14 MPH. I know these machines had problems with hills but I didn't realize it was so drastic. This does not seem to bother me because I was prepared for it. Everything else is good Love my Kubota! have a small oil leak under snowblower gearbox. I clean the oil off the gear case and this morning nothing was wet. I think the gearbox leak was probably just oil left on the machine, but I will keep an eye on it.
 
it will get better as it breaks in. and of course the linkage isn't probably in proper adjustment. make sure you drive it at full throttle but for first 50 hours is best to vary the rpm and loads some.
 
Did you check the level in the gearbox? My tiller's gearbox has plug that when unscrewed, will weep when overfilled . I check it a couple of times a year even though I don't use it much- that's one expensive part so I keep an eye on it.
 
bordercollie said:
Did you check the level in the gearbox? My tiller's gearbox has plug that when unscrewed, will weep when overfilled . I check it a couple of times a year even though I don't use it much- that's one expensive part so I keep an eye on it.
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It has been a couple days now and no more leaking. It was such a small amount of gear lube I think it was left on there when they filled all the fluids they didn't wipe it down. I am going to give it one more day before I checked the gearcase fluid level, I want to make sure that it is not leaking anymore before I check the level.
 
aurthuritis said:
used the snow blower yet?
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No I do not think I will be using the snowblower this winter, unless we get a unpredicted snow storm. I was thinking when I run a snowblower I have to keep the hand throttle wide open, this would not be good for the motor break in. I am probably better off that I bought it this time of year because of this.
 
i doubt that the wide open throttle would hurt anything and besides the variable load that the blower would put on the engine would be beneficial. let it snow
 
aurthuritis said:
i doubt that the wide open throttle would hurt anything and besides the variable load that the blower would put on the engine would be beneficial. let it snow
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Isn't that like pressing the gas pedal all the way down to the floor the engine revs up, wouldn't that be like running the machine wide open with the snow blower going for long periods? The RPMs go up when I press the gas pedal down to the floor and they also go up when I turn the throttle all the way up, how do I vary the speed 4 break in if I have the throttle all the way up? Wouldn't this be the same thing as driving the Kubota wide open for a long time. I just want to make sure I do the right thing for break in.
 
yes when you pull the hand throttle it revs the engine and the foot peddle controls only the hydrostat. that way you get max hp to run the front attachment but control the travel speed with the peddle. when you just run the machine with the peddle it automatically matches travel speed to engine rpm. in a break in period in a no load situation it is good to vary the engine speed but during work the full rpm would be fine because the snow blower will vary the load just by the different levels of snow. that is actually the best break in you could ask for.
 
aurthuritis said:
yes when you pull the hand throttle it revs the engine and the foot peddle controls only the hydrostat. that way you get max hp to run the front attachment but control the travel speed with the peddle. when you just run the machine with the peddle it automatically matches travel speed to engine rpm. in a break in period in a no load situation it is good to vary the engine speed but during work the full rpm would be fine because the snow blower will vary the load just by the different levels of snow. that is actually the best break in you could ask for.
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Thanks aurthuritis, I think I got it now:blob_blue:
 
I started building a cart for my snowblower to make it easier to remove and install. I had to keep it very low to the ground to be able to disconnect and connect with the PTO
 

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Looks good, depending on the weight of the snowblower you may want to add a metal or plywood gusset to each of the "L" shaped wheel legs for strength.
 
avantiguy said:
Looks good, depending on the weight of the snowblower you may want to add a metal or plywood gusset to each of the "L" shaped wheel legs for strength.
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Thanks for the compliment! The snowblower weighs 340LBS no gussets needed. I left room to add gussets if I needed them, but I will not need them. I designed the wheel mounts for strength, if you look at the wheel blocks I used the router on the wheel mounts so I can put screws in on both sides for strength. I made the cart out of Oak there is no flexing at all it is very rigid. I will take some pics when I get it all done and have the snow blower on it.
 
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Somehow I deleted my own post. The K connect system is driven from a drive shaft at the rear the machine. It disconnects with three simple steps first you pull the two pins on each side then you push down on the handle to disconnect the drive, then you lower your hydraulics and back out that's all there is to it. The hardest part is disconnecting the quick disconnects for the hydraulics. I tried to upload a video that shows all this in detail but it did not work. If you Google pto connect system for Kubota x1100c you will see some videos come up one explains it in detail. Hope this helps.
 
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