Kubota RTV 900 transmission problem - hardley moves in gear!

aurthuritis said:
there is an old member here. his handle was Adams Repair. do a search for his posts in the archives. he had very much experience with the 900 in a very harsh environment. in one of his posts i remember him saying that he had boosted the pressures to 4000 lbs and more without damage but he warned to be careful. so search for adams repair. i don't remember if there was an apostrophe in the name or not.
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I read his post. That's where I got the kit number.
 
Someone had this thing and probably messed with it, I removed the plug that I posted my first incling that it's been messed with the plug picture. I removed it, it's not bsp it's not. . They bought a machine that they knew nothing about and funked it up. But it was cheap enough for me. Just a couple of parts and I will put it back together and have a (hopefully) nice machine.
 
the charge pump is not a very complicated pump and can stand a lot of abuse. are you sure you werent just hearing cavitation when it was trying to prime.
 
Pulled the filter, cooler, and spacer. I will am surprised that I didn't find any pieces. Definitely going to be thinking about it. might be in too big of pieces to get out of the housing.
 
Pics of the root cause. IMO
 

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well there you have it. that part is expensive and you need to replace the whole pump and motor. hint hint-- Kubota calls that a valve body. you need to arm yourself with the serial number and complete model including prefix etc and get on Messicks website to use their online parts schematic. there you will find all part numbers prices and availability. i don't have any connection with them other than being a satisfied customer. their prices are fair and service is exemplary. and a plus is they support this site that has allowed us to help each other. shameless plug
 
i would like to see what is in the filter media. can you cut the can off and let us see?? i would like to see if the filters internals are compromised. or if the bypass has been working.
 
I was curious and measured the pistons on part 5H550-19402 ASSY BLOCK CYL. - replaces 5H550-19400 ($371) against the part 5H550-19202 ASSY BLOCK CYL. - replaces 5H550-19200 ($370) and the 19202 is 1mm shorter on the piston. I doubt they were different when installed. Along with a badly scored K3161-11310 BEARING, THRUST - replaces 5H550-19120 ($55) and K7571-91374 KIT PLATE, VALVE - replaces K7571-91373 ($165). Shameless plug is only good with part numbers and prices. My total cost is almost $1000 for parts. And I may need more parts. That's just so far. Kudos to messicks for the drawings and reasonable prices, some if not all will probably come from them.
 

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aurthuritis said:
i would like to see what is in the filter media. can you cut the can off and let us see?? i would like to see if the filters internals are compromised. or if the bypass has been working.
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I would, but you forget about one thing, this is an old problem that predates the filters. I don't have the old filters. The current filters only have 50 hr on them. I did find a very few flakes inside, but they were very small. If I was looking for metal, the best place to look is in the bottom of the transmission. Also someone else has already been this far and gave up. They pawned this rtv off on a dealer.
 
I need info on the output shaft, is it press fit on something in the next section? I want to check out the last pump assembly. WSM shows nothing.
 
great job. now you have the skill and tools to put er back together and have a new hst. and adjust it for optimum performance.
 
a remember to get some white lithium grease or other good assembly lube to lube all the plates and other stuff up with as you assemble.
 
dmatlock2 said:
I need info on the output shaft, is it press fit on something in the next section? I want to check out the last pump assembly. WSM shows nothing.
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in order to access this shaft you need to take the rear axle assy out and remove the half shafts then remove the brake and output bearing holders from each side of the front gearcase trans axle remove the ring gear and diff case. then you can get to the splined coupling on the output shaft and inner bearing. if i am understanding you correctly
 
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