Here's a "Talk About Anything" - II
- Thread starter bczoom
- Start date
Here's a good description.
www.space.com
The sun has ejected a huge amount of its stuff at Earth in the past few days. This has all kinds of effects, including the lights. Some electronics, satellites, communications and such can also be affected.
Aurora Borealis: What Causes the Northern Lights & Where to See Them
The northern lights are an atmospheric phenomenon that's regarded as the Holy Grail of skywatching.
The sun has ejected a huge amount of its stuff at Earth in the past few days. This has all kinds of effects, including the lights. Some electronics, satellites, communications and such can also be affected.
The little tractor that could. OK, the little tractor that tried.
My neighbor had a vehicle engine he just sold and asked if I could use my tractor loader to pick it up and set it in the buyer's trailer.
I pulled my tractor up to the engine. My loader had to be in full dump mode so my tooth bar didn't tear apart the oil pan. It was on an engine hoist so the engine was up pretty high. I tried to lift it. No go. Being up high and in dump mode, I didn't have a lot of hydraulic power.
I was still surprised I couldn't lift it. Hopped off the tractor to take a look at the engine. I "thought" I was picking up a a 6 or 8 cyl SUV or small truck engine. Works out that it was a 6.2L Cummins diesel that weighed around 1200 pounds. That explains why I couldn't do it.
Called another friend/neighbor. He has a JD 4052. Asked him to leave his bucket behind and bring his quick-attach forks. Lifted that engine without issue and placed it on the trailer. Makes me feel like I want a bigger tractor.
Oh, it's wet here. The neighbor's yard now has ruts from both of our tractors.
My neighbor had a vehicle engine he just sold and asked if I could use my tractor loader to pick it up and set it in the buyer's trailer.
I pulled my tractor up to the engine. My loader had to be in full dump mode so my tooth bar didn't tear apart the oil pan. It was on an engine hoist so the engine was up pretty high. I tried to lift it. No go. Being up high and in dump mode, I didn't have a lot of hydraulic power.
I was still surprised I couldn't lift it. Hopped off the tractor to take a look at the engine. I "thought" I was picking up a a 6 or 8 cyl SUV or small truck engine. Works out that it was a 6.2L Cummins diesel that weighed around 1200 pounds. That explains why I couldn't do it.
Called another friend/neighbor. He has a JD 4052. Asked him to leave his bucket behind and bring his quick-attach forks. Lifted that engine without issue and placed it on the trailer. Makes me feel like I want a bigger tractor.
Oh, it's wet here. The neighbor's yard now has ruts from both of our tractors.
Smilingreen
Well-known member
I got a JD 5055D with FEL I am kicking around about selling. Got a few attachment that will go with it. 7' medium duty brush hog, Root Grapple, landscape rake and hevi duty boxblade with hydraulically actuated scarifier beam........55 horse tier II diesel. No DEF fluid, starts and runs like a new one.
I want to buy a used trackloader.
Last edited:
I'm sad. Just a little thing but I have an old Wheel Horse tractor that doesn't run. I'm not into fixing it. I told the scrap guy to come get it but my heart said to try and give it another life. I put it on CL with a beg for someone to get it for damn near free so it doesn't get scrapped. Unfortunately, no takers. 
I just hate good, old iron going to scrap. This tractor has straight steel, nice patina but .... no spark.
I just hate good, old iron going to scrap. This tractor has straight steel, nice patina but .... no spark.
Smilingreen
Well-known member
No spark issue wouldn't be that hard to fix.I'm sad. Just a little thing but I have an old Wheel Horse tractor that doesn't run. I'm not into fixing it. I told the scrap guy to come get it but my heart said to try and give it another life. I put it on CL with a beg for someone to get it for damn near free so it doesn't get scrapped. Unfortunately, no takers.
I just hate good, old iron going to scrap. This tractor has straight steel, nice patina but .... no spark.
Ohhhh. That's makes me sad too. I once had an engine with no spark but with a little fine sanding of the rust on the flywheel, (magnitron area) I got it to fire. They don't make new stuff like the old tried and true. This one could be a golden nugget to a collector- sure wish I was close. .
I need one of those. What do used ones run?I got a JD 5055D with FEL I am kicking around about selling. Got a few attachment that will go with it. 7' medium duty brush hog, Root Grapple, landscape rake and hevi duty boxblade with hydraulically actuated scarifier beam........55 horse tier II diesel. No DEF fluid, starts and runs like a new one.
I want to buy a used trackloader.
View attachment 15295
I did the basic things like cleaning the flywheel, re-gap the magnatron, new plug... Don't want to start replacing parts as I really don't want this tractor. Besides electrical issue, it needs new tires. There's no mower deck. Too small for any towing needs (I use the ATV). No need for it and it's just sucking up space.
I once had a Mercury 9.9 hp outboard that quit running because of no spark. The Mercury dealer wanted the First-Born for the “Thunderbolt” ignition system replacement parts and they were also backordered.
I decided to tear into it and found beneath the flywheel a set of what appeared to be magnetic pick-up coils and an aluminum box filled with epoxy-sealed electronics. I chiseled-out the electronics, leaving only the coils which apparently picked up the flux from magnets mounted inside the flywheel circumference as they passed-by.
I added a cendenser (an original Toyota condenser from the early ‘70s which had been in my toolbox since I’d worked for them as a young college/flight student. (Remember the old points, coil, condenser, distributor ignition systems?)
The CONDENSER was the secret. (The magnets passing by the coils will impart current within the coils….but that current is low-intensity if not momentarily stored/built-up in a condenser.). Adding the condenser in parallel to the coils provided just the right amount to create a spark at the plugs.
My neighbor Chuck (devised microchips for Motorola) laughed at my concoction believing I’d simply destroyed beyond repairability the original system.
But that little ‘engine that could” …FIRED RIGHT UP! and ran my 14’ DelCraft fishing boat for 5 more years before I sold it. It. was seen almost ten years later, still running on Inks Lake.
I completely drained the gas bulk tank today out of the drain that's at the very bottom of the tank.
The last 3 gallons out of the tank came out purple/blue. See attached pic. That's a brand new perfectly clear piece of PVC.
Why is it purple?
I don't think I've run Sta-Bil in 10+ years. I switched to SeaFoam years ago but haven't used that in at least 5 years.
I ran all the drained fuel through a Mr. Funnel to remove any water and debris but the purple remains.
The last 3 gallons out of the tank came out purple/blue. See attached pic. That's a brand new perfectly clear piece of PVC.
Why is it purple?
I don't think I've run Sta-Bil in 10+ years. I switched to SeaFoam years ago but haven't used that in at least 5 years.
I ran all the drained fuel through a Mr. Funnel to remove any water and debris but the purple remains.
Steel tank. I don't know if the inside is painted or bare.
I contacted SeaFoam to see if their additive may have settled (it's clear out of the bottle). Haven't used Sta-Bil in years but I wonder if there's any residue of that in the bottom. Now that I think about it, years ago, I used the Marine grade Sta-Bil which is BLUE!!! I'm going to contact them later today.
I've been searching the internet about the purple color.
- Some diesel is dyed purple (I normally see red dye around here) but this doesn't apply as it's gas.
- Ethanol may have something to do with it.
From this site (although they're not referencing the purple color), it may be phase separation between the pure gas and the 10% ethanol mixed in.
www.boatus.com
PROBLEM 3: If phase separation occurs, the highly corrosive ethanol/water mixture will settle to the bottom of the tank and remain there even after fresh fuel is added in the spring. The only way to remedy the problem would then be to drain the tank and add fresh gasoline. The best way to avoid phase separation over the winter (aside from emptying the tank) is to leave the tank 95-percent full (which allows for expansion) so that there's less moist air in the tank, less space for condensation to collect, and more gasoline to absorb whatever moisture does accumulate.
I contacted SeaFoam to see if their additive may have settled (it's clear out of the bottle). Haven't used Sta-Bil in years but I wonder if there's any residue of that in the bottom. Now that I think about it, years ago, I used the Marine grade Sta-Bil which is BLUE!!! I'm going to contact them later today.
I've been searching the internet about the purple color.
- Some diesel is dyed purple (I normally see red dye around here) but this doesn't apply as it's gas.
- Ethanol may have something to do with it.
From this site (although they're not referencing the purple color), it may be phase separation between the pure gas and the 10% ethanol mixed in.
Three Ethanol Myths Clarified
In the few years since ethanol began to be widely used in the United States, a lot has been written about its properties, the problems it's created, and how to best cope with its possible effects. It's time we get to the bottom of how E10 is affecting our engines.
www.boatus.com
PROBLEM 3: If phase separation occurs, the highly corrosive ethanol/water mixture will settle to the bottom of the tank and remain there even after fresh fuel is added in the spring. The only way to remedy the problem would then be to drain the tank and add fresh gasoline. The best way to avoid phase separation over the winter (aside from emptying the tank) is to leave the tank 95-percent full (which allows for expansion) so that there's less moist air in the tank, less space for condensation to collect, and more gasoline to absorb whatever moisture does accumulate.
Smilingreen
Well-known member
That site must be getting some type of kick backs from the ethanol fuel industry. While I agree with most of their ethanol fuel myth busting, ethanol plays hell on rubber hoses and rubber gaskets. Ethanol has no business being used in a small engine, unless the engine is just a cheap throw away and you like buying new engines every 12-24 months. I run straight E0 (non-ethanol) in all of my small engines. I have no problems with swollen fuel lines, gummed up and pitted carbs, etc.Steel tank. I don't know if the inside is painted or bare.
I contacted SeaFoam to see if their additive may have settled (it's clear out of the bottle). Haven't used Sta-Bil in years but I wonder if there's any residue of that in the bottom. Now that I think about it, years ago, I used the Marine grade Sta-Bil which is BLUE!!! I'm going to contact them later today.
I've been searching the internet about the purple color.
- Some diesel is dyed purple (I normally see red dye around here) but this doesn't apply as it's gas.
- Ethanol may have something to do with it.
From this site (although they're not referencing the purple color), it may be phase separation between the pure gas and the 10% ethanol mixed in.
Three Ethanol Myths Clarified
In the few years since ethanol began to be widely used in the United States, a lot has been written about its properties, the problems it's created, and how to best cope with its possible effects. It's time we get to the bottom of how E10 is affecting our engines.
PROBLEM 3: If phase separation occurs, the highly corrosive ethanol/water mixture will settle to the bottom of the tank and remain there even after fresh fuel is added in the spring. The only way to remedy the problem would then be to drain the tank and add fresh gasoline. The best way to avoid phase separation over the winter (aside from emptying the tank) is to leave the tank 95-percent full (which allows for expansion) so that there's less moist air in the tank, less space for condensation to collect, and more gasoline to absorb whatever moisture does accumulate.
As far as the color purple/blue, that has to be the Marine grade stabil. Algae isn't that color. Neither is rust.
I just contacted Sta-Bil via e-mail and waiting for their reply.
I'm guessing at this point that it is their products that never mixed in and settled to the bottom of the tank.
Many years ago, I used both their red and blue products just to get the cans off my shelf since they were getting old. Guessing that's why I ended up with purple. Since the cans I used may have been more than a couple years old at the time (the shelf life of the Sta-Bil additives), I'm thinking they never mixed/dissolved properly with the gas.
I also asked them if the gas is OK to use as is or if there's too much additives and it needs diluted with untreated gas.
I'm guessing at this point that it is their products that never mixed in and settled to the bottom of the tank.
Many years ago, I used both their red and blue products just to get the cans off my shelf since they were getting old. Guessing that's why I ended up with purple. Since the cans I used may have been more than a couple years old at the time (the shelf life of the Sta-Bil additives), I'm thinking they never mixed/dissolved properly with the gas.
I also asked them if the gas is OK to use as is or if there's too much additives and it needs diluted with untreated gas.
Well, according to Sta-Bil, it's not them. Here's their response.
"Based on the info provided, STA-BIL products would dissipate within the fuel causing no change in fuel color. As long as STA-BIL was used by the treat rate recommended on the packaging, it would not sink to the bottom of the fuel tank."
"Based on the info provided, STA-BIL products would dissipate within the fuel causing no change in fuel color. As long as STA-BIL was used by the treat rate recommended on the packaging, it would not sink to the bottom of the fuel tank."