RTV X1140 No Movement or Drive, HST Problem

That dipstick you show is for the gear case. The hst oil is in a tank under the passenger side seat. Remove the round plug to find a screw in cap with a dipstick.
 
I still don't think you are following the procedure correctly. Since the string trick gets you more speed it tells me that the hst speed rod on the left side rear isn't at full travel.
 
Your going to have to sort out the peddle and its cable to the belcrank though.
Try adjusting the cable so there is zero slack with the peddle all the way up and the belcrank in detent? Then start over on the rest .
 
I would bet that your hst is fine. Just have to figure out this control problem. The welds look good to me. Maybe a new cable? I would sure try an adjustment first.
 
Picking up a new cable today. I will then go through your process. I was not pushing the pedal far enough and even now with the bolt all the way down under the pedal the detent just barely moves off the bell crank. Could you send me a picture of what your detent looks like at full throttle?
 
The black rolling wheel comes completely out of the detent and moves out on the tongue almost to the end in relation to the detent. I figured it was supposed to do that. I am assuming it is in this furthest reflected state that the rod attached at the back end would be pushing the HST lever to its full throttle position. My black wheel does not even get out of the detent with the pedal completely to the floor. I have the cable threads adjusted all the way out to the maximum. I will be pulling the cable and laying it beside the new one to see just how stretched it has become. It will be interesting. Thank you for the picture. Additionally it does not look like it takes very much pulling on the lever to move the wheel out to that final position. Thank you for the photos. I have a better understanding of the mechanism. I am also assuming it is at this position that I would adjust the floor bolt up to touching the pedal.
 
I think in this case i would first set the new cable for no slack and the peddle in its highest position and the detent in its seat. Then i would push the peddle down as far as it will go without stretching or bending the peddle,then bring up the stop bolt. Then proceed to reattach the control arm and throttle. That way everything will meet at maximum at the same exact time the peddle hits the stop.
 
This is what I did. Cable taute with pedal at highest resting state and detente in it's seat. Bolt was all the way down and the pedal moved all the way to the floor without binding anything. It still did not pull the black wheel or roller out to the end of the tongue (picture 3). The new cable and old cable were actually the same length but the old one was not pulling through the sleeve smoothly and actually froze when the temperature dropped into the teens a few weeks ago. I made the assumption there was moisture in the cable and also that there is likely rust on the cable. I am keeping the new one. Do you think the pedal may be slightly bent? Should the angle be 90? Here are pictures of components with pedal up and then the detent when fully depressed. It will now run a out 8 to 9 mph on the flat. Itnus I vious to me that the HST lever is not getting out to its full throttle range but the cable is pulling everything it can.
 

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The detent assembly looks ok. But just to be thorough i would disconnect everything including the peddle cable from the belcrank and make sure it will move freely throughput its entire travel length. Then with the cable unattached from the peddle make sure it will go all the way up and down without any interference especially in its highest. Look for loose broken bent parts on the peddle.
 
Magfarmer said:
Hey RTV Friends!!!
I am driving my RTV-1140 and the HST is working great.
Service Hint: The suction Line & Return Line where they bolt to the HST plate requires "2" )-rings each. I only saw this when I went to order replacements at Messick's and saw 2x... If you look into the block you see there is a large chamfer, so the 2nd O-ring is pushed into place with the 1st when the tube is bolted in place. I only had 1 O-ring, and it was sucking air, causing my hydraulic fluid to have the entrained air contamination...Foam City...Like a whipped Frappuccino... Not a good thing for hydraulics.

Anyway, it sealed up, oil looks good, and it ran great.. 21 mph on a slight upward grade, 23mph back down it.. smooth running and no leaks.. Of course, I parked it 2 nights ago, and I hope to get out to the shop tomorrow and see if my "No Leaks" comment was premature...lol

As for cost, The big ticket items were the Pump assembly block, swashplate & Thrust Bearings... O-rings, hoses and gaskets
Add in the UDT2 Oil... And I come in right at $1500. It took me a long time, but my work keeps me busy, but the effort was a lot better that $4000 or $6000 Replacement. Plus I had fun learning... I may just buy another auction unit in the future...If I can get it past my wife...lol

I thank everyone for their help and if I can, I would be glad to offer my suggestions.
Click to expand...
I just purchased one from auction today and the description read:


Details​

2020 KUBOTA RTV-X1140 UTV, VIN: A5KD2GDBCLG039343, METER READS 1,906 HOURS, KUBOTA DIESEL ENGINE, 4X4, HYDRAULIC DUMP BED, CREW CAB, CANOPY, WINDSHIELD (CRANKS & RUNS BUT WILL NOT TRAVEL UNDER ITS OWN POWER)

Maybe I can reach out to you after I pick it up next week? Maybe you can save me some time figuring out what is wrong with it.

Thanks,

Brad
 
Hi Brad.

I have 2 low hour 2018s with same issue from auction.

I've been studying this thread for 2 weeks now.

Still looking for the pressure testing guage set that works.
 
Looks like things keep getting better.

This is the input flange and input shaft.
They look like they spin freely lol.
So I know I'll have to open the gear box, I'm afraid there's carnage I'm not ready for.

The input shaft in the transmission spins like a top when i turn it. Regardless of the gear selector position. Should that be the case?
 

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Well,

Heres a little something that might help someone.

This bearing and gear need to be pulled off before you pull the case apart.
1000012464.jpg
Everything inside the case looks good. Nothing really jumps out at me as being a red flag, but i did find this

1000012463.jpg

Any idea where these go?

1000012459.jpg
 
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