RTV X1140 No Movement or Drive, HST Problem

"I started looking over my suction line and found cracks in the suction hose near the hose clamp at the top... I will attach a picture. I am guessing it is sucking air in and causing my problem."

The integrity of the hydraulic system is crucial. You've done so much great work so far I would not skimp on purchasing the hoses from Messick's. An improper suction hose can collapse - use the correct one. Good luck.
 
Hey RTV Friends!!!
I am driving my RTV-1140 and the HST is working great.
Service Hint: The suction Line & Return Line where they bolt to the HST plate requires "2" )-rings each. I only saw this when I went to order replacements at Messick's and saw 2x... If you look into the block you see there is a large chamfer, so the 2nd O-ring is pushed into place with the 1st when the tube is bolted in place. I only had 1 O-ring, and it was sucking air, causing my hydraulic fluid to have the entrained air contamination...Foam City...Like a whipped Frappuccino... Not a good thing for hydraulics.

Anyway, it sealed up, oil looks good, and it ran great.. 21 mph on a slight upward grade, 23mph back down it.. smooth running and no leaks.. Of course, I parked it 2 nights ago, and I hope to get out to the shop tomorrow and see if my "No Leaks" comment was premature...lol

As for cost, The big ticket items were the Pump assembly block, swashplate & Thrust Bearings... O-rings, hoses and gaskets
Add in the UDT2 Oil... And I come in right at $1500. It took me a long time, but my work keeps me busy, but the effort was a lot better that $4000 or $6000 Replacement. Plus I had fun learning... I may just buy another auction unit in the future...If I can get it past my wife...lol

I thank everyone for their help and if I can, I would be glad to offer my suggestions.
 
Hey RTV Friends!!!
I am driving my RTV-1140 and the HST is working great.
Service Hint: The suction Line & Return Line where they bolt to the HST plate requires quantity "2" O-rings each. I only saw this when I went to order replacements at Messick's and saw 2x... If you look into the block you see there is a large chamfer, so the 2nd O-ring is pushed into place with the 1st when the tube is bolted in place. I only had 1 O-ring, and it was sucking air, causing my hydraulic fluid to have the entrained air contamination...Foam City...Like a whipped Frappuccino... Not a good thing for hydraulics.

Anyway, it sealed up, oil looks good, and it ran great.. 21 mph on a slight upward grade, 23mph back down it.. smooth running and no leaks.. Of course, I parked it 2 nights ago, and I hope to get out to the shop tomorrow and see if my "No Leaks" comment was premature...lol

As for cost, The big ticket items were the Pump assembly block, swashplate & Thrust Bearings... O-rings, hoses and gaskets
Add in the UDT2 Oil... And I come in right at $1500. It took me a long time, but my work keeps me busy, but the effort was a lot better that $4000 or $6000 Replacement. Plus I had fun learning... I may just buy another auction unit in the future...If I can get it past my wife...lol

I thank everyone for their help and if I can, I would be glad to offer my suggestions.
 
Just because I am as surprised as anyone....
After 3 days, no oil leaks at all!!!!!
I have expected the concrete under it to look like an old Harley with a chain oiler or Jaguar XKE had been parked overnight...lol (Harley and British car guys will get the reference. lol)
I really did expect there to be at least one, but I guess I did good...
Yep, I am a happy camper....
 
Magfarmer said:
Just because I am as surprised as anyone....
After 3 days, no oil leaks at all!!!!!
I have expected the concrete under it to look like an old Harley with a chain oiler or Jaguar XKE had been parked overnight...lol (Harley and British car guys will get the reference. lol)
I really did expect there to be at least one, but I guess I did good...
Yep, I am a happy camper....
Click to expand...
Nice work man. Did you uncover what caused the failure in the beginning?
 
aurthuritis said:
howdy--- very good detailed info. things i picked up from reading. high idle adjustment is low very low should be 3600 rpm when the fuel pump control lever is against the upper limit screw. i suspect your machine is grossly out of adjustment so go through the peddle hst adjustment and get the relationships all propper first and then check pressures. low idle isn't as critical unless unit is shaking
Click to expand...
Good morning aurthoritis. I am currently dealing with a low performing RTX 1140. I would like to start with the basics. Where can I get the peddle hst adjustment procedure. I also believe my throttle cable is stretched because all adjustments are at maximum and it will not rev to full throttle unless I manually pull the throttle at the engine end. I am talking about the lever that the throttle cable attached to.
 
Kimsdado said:
Good morning aurthoritis. I am currently dealing with a low performing RTX 1140. I would like to start with the basics. Where can I get the peddle hst adjustment procedure. I also believe my throttle cable is stretched because all adjustments are at maximum and it will not rev to full throttle unless I manually pull the throttle at the engine end. I am talking about the lever that the throttle cable attached to.
Click to expand...
New Youtube channel. This guy does a pretty good job explaining how to adjust the cable linkages on your RTV.

 
Kimsdado said:
I also now have a copy of the work shop manual.
Click to expand...
I bought my WSM before I bought my X1100C. I wanted to see what I was getting myself into before I took the plunge. I am at a little over 60 hours on mine, I have all of my fluids and filters, just waiting on a break in the winter weather to get my 1 st service done. I'll be adjust the throw on all of my cables. They should be halfway decently stretched by now.
Pay close attention to what the guy on Youtube talks about with the throttle on the injector pump. He shows you the maximum throw you will ever get with the pedal versus the hand throttle.
 
Kimsdado said:
Good morning aurthoritis. I am currently dealing with a low performing RTX 1140. I would like to start with the basics. Where can I get the peddle hst adjustment procedure. I also believe my throttle cable is stretched because all adjustments are at maximum and it will not rev to full throttle unless I manually pull the throttle at the engine end. I am talking about the lever that the throttle cable attached to.
Click to expand...
first things first...i am not completely familiar with your model but should be similar at the least. Please take a pic of your trans from the rear and post please? The little cable has a threaded stud attached that should have enough travel to adjust. I'll check back
 
Kimsdado said:
Good morning aurthoritis. I am currently dealing with a low performing RTX 1140. I would like to start with the basics. Where can I get the peddle hst adjustment procedure. I also believe my throttle cable is stretched because all adjustments are at maximum and it will not rev to full throttle unless I manually pull the throttle at the engine end. I am talking about the lever that the throttle cable attached
Click to expand...

Kimsdado said:
Good morning aurthoritis. I am currently dealing with a low performing RTX 1140. I would like to start with the basics. Where can I get the peddle hst adjustment procedure. I also believe my throttle cable is stretched because all adjustments are at maximum and it will not rev to full throttle unless I manually pull the throttle at the engine end. I am talking about the lever that the throttle cable attached to.
Click to expand...

X1100C No acceleration going "Down Hill' After Full service at Dealer .(See Post 16 for fix)​

 
Thank you sir. Once the rain stops I will follow those instructions step by step. I am afraid the peddle cable is already stretched but we will see. I will also get that picture.
 
I seriously doubt that the push pull cable attached to the peddle is stretched. The cable that may be stretched or out of adjustment is attached to the throttle lever on the fuel pump. A small cable only a few inches long,and chances are it just needs adjusted.
 
Good morning. Here are a few pictures. I attempted the step by step procedure referred to above with no luck. I also checked the hydrolic fluid level. I had recently changed both filters and fluid. When I did so the fluid that was in the machine was milky white (I had purchased the Kubota used). The top speed on an asphalt road was 15 mph when I drove it home. Now it will creep along at 1 mph. It may likely have some internal damage like what Magfarmer found. I have the pedal cable adjusted to its maximum length. I did adjust the stop bolt under the peddle as described in the procedure. I maximized the HST while in neutral but when I attempted to shift to H, L, OR R it sounded like I was meshing gears. I ended up jacking up the rear wheels, putting it in gear and adjusting the HST cable until the wheels did not turn either in forward or reverse. I did NOT put UDT2 in it but had researched a viable replacement oil. I also found that one of the vent plugs on top of the transmission had popped out of place so there was a source for water or anything to get into the transmission. I had not messed around in that area so my assumption is it had been that way for a while and it would explain the milky fluid. I am not an engineer like Magfarmer but may carefully follow his example and check out some of the internal components.
 

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Also I figured I would attempt to clean out the muffler and proceeded to break off the clean out bolt and then the screw extractor so if it is clogged up with soot I will have a chore ahead of me the clear the clean out hole.
 
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