RTV X1140 No Movement or Drive, HST Problem
- Thread starter Magfarmer
- Start date
aurthuritis
Well-known member
Sounds to me from your description that you don't understand the adjustment procedure. It is the peddle travel that you start with and not the cable. If you have followed the procedure correctly the gears would not be clashing,this indicates that your machine is grossly out of adjustment. Sorry but there aren't any shortcuts... could be that the milky fluid probably water contamination may or may not have damaged the plates and rotating valves. Unless the relationship is in adjustment first you will chase many rabbits down their holes.
I put the peddle cable back to mid thread on each end (pictures 1 and 2). You can actually see the slack or bow in the cable at both the peddle end (picture 2) and the HST bracket end (picture 3). With the cable adjusted like this it does not even begin to move the HST lever even with the peddle stop bolt all the way down. That is why I think the peddle cable is stretched.
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aurthuritis
Well-known member
There is alot going on with this adjustment and it took me several try to get it figured out also so don't get frustrated. I will put it in an order.
1.at the rear or the machine disconnect the hst speed rod from the hst speed lever.
2. Disconnect the little cable from the fuel pump throttle lever
3. Loosen the jamb nut on the peddle stop bolt under the peddle and turn the stop bolt all the way down as far as it will go.
4.push gently down on the peddle observing the the mechanism until you have full travel down without deflecting the brackets or arms.
5. Adjust the peddle stop bolt up until it just touches the peddle at max travel from step 4 check several times as not to put a strain on the mechanism. If the push pull cable is causing and reduction in travel this is the time to adjust it as to allow full unimpeded travel of the peddle without deflection.
6. Push the previously adjusted peddle down against the stop and hold it there.
7. Reattach and adjust the hst speed rod so it will hold the hst speed lever at it's furthest or fastest setting but just off of the stop.
8. Reattach and adjust the cable to the throttle speed lever until the throttle lever is just against the high speed stop.
9. Move the peddle up and down a few times and hold against the peddle stop screw and check the hst speed control and throttle for binding.
10. With the peddle in its relaxed position check the throttle speed cable and lever to see the lever against the low speed stop.
1.at the rear or the machine disconnect the hst speed rod from the hst speed lever.
2. Disconnect the little cable from the fuel pump throttle lever
3. Loosen the jamb nut on the peddle stop bolt under the peddle and turn the stop bolt all the way down as far as it will go.
4.push gently down on the peddle observing the the mechanism until you have full travel down without deflecting the brackets or arms.
5. Adjust the peddle stop bolt up until it just touches the peddle at max travel from step 4 check several times as not to put a strain on the mechanism. If the push pull cable is causing and reduction in travel this is the time to adjust it as to allow full unimpeded travel of the peddle without deflection.
6. Push the previously adjusted peddle down against the stop and hold it there.
7. Reattach and adjust the hst speed rod so it will hold the hst speed lever at it's furthest or fastest setting but just off of the stop.
8. Reattach and adjust the cable to the throttle speed lever until the throttle lever is just against the high speed stop.
9. Move the peddle up and down a few times and hold against the peddle stop screw and check the hst speed control and throttle for binding.
10. With the peddle in its relaxed position check the throttle speed cable and lever to see the lever against the low speed stop.
I have a couple of clarification questions.
1. After step 4 with the pedal adjusted correctly down to the stop bolt would the expected outcome look like picture 1 as far as the detent on top of the transmission goes?
2. In regards to step 7, which direction would the HST lever be with the pedal at max depression. Would it be angled backwards in relation to the driver's seat (to the right in picture 2)?
1. After step 4 with the pedal adjusted correctly down to the stop bolt would the expected outcome look like picture 1 as far as the detent on top of the transmission goes?
2. In regards to step 7, which direction would the HST lever be with the pedal at max depression. Would it be angled backwards in relation to the driver's seat (to the right in picture 2)?
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aurthuritis
Well-known member
The bellcrank would be in the detent with the peddle released. The hst speed lever should be in the furthest rear position away from the cab at max depression of the peddle. You can adjust the lenghth of the hst speed rod by loosening the jamb nuts on both ends and turning the center to lengthen or shorten.
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aurthuritis
Well-known member
You can adjust the lentgh of the throttle cable by loosening the jamb nut and turning the stud attach to the cable.
aurthuritis
Well-known member
CORRECTION! the hst speed lever moves away from the cab and towards the rear as the peddle is pressed. The hst speed lever should be to the furthest most rear of it's travel with the peddle fully depressed. Sorry 
i edited the above post.
i edited the above post.I am not understanding step 4. What does without deflection mean? I have been adjusting the pedal stop to the point where the cable just tightens up to the top of this arm. That is where full depression is. It feels like full depression should at least pull the arm forward so there would be movement on the HST rod. If this arm does not pull forward the bell crank does not move off the detent.
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aurthuritis
Well-known member
From your photos the control cable from the peddle to the belcrank is way out of adjustment. The end of the cable nearest the peddle should be nearest the end of the threads and visa versa on the belcrank end. Give or take on each end.
aurthuritis
Well-known member
aurthuritis
Well-known member
Adjust it to look like this again. Then examin the other end to see if you can remove some slack by adjusting the sheath closer to the end of the threads if you want. A half inch of travel might not hurt anything though. As far as deflection you want maximum travel in the peddle without putting any of its components in a bind. Take it to that point and adjust the stop bolt up to that point. There should be more travel built into the system than is needed but you want everything to come together at max just when the peddle touches the stop.
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aurthuritis
Well-known member
I will look at mine to see how much peddle travel i have before things begin to move for comparison and post it here after in a few.
aurthuritis
Well-known member
scottybilt
Member
guys, if you look close at the pics you ca see what looks like that lever that holds cable end has broke and rewelded wrong by the tube.
aurthuritis
Well-known member
On my machine? Are you referring to the tube that is the belcrank?
scottybilt
Member
(On my machine? Are you referring to the tube that is the belcrank?) no.....yes, also if you look at that lever yours is clocked at about 10:30 his is at almost 12:00, that would easly create the slack in cable,
aurthuritis
Well-known member
Sorry but i don't see what you see. Maybe clean off the grease to see if there's a weld,but i think the different camera angles make it look so. I can take a better pic directly from the end if that helps.
I reattached everything and adjusted the pedal cable all the way out using the threads at both ends. It will go about 4 or 5 mph. I attached a hay string so I could manually pull the lever to its full extent and it will go about 15 mph which is what it was doing when I bought it. It also appears I have way too much oil in it. It is all the way up to the 4 inch mark on the attached photo. I also cleaned up my bellcrank so the welds can be scrutinized.
