Return on accelerator sticking and drive to rear wheels appears intermittent

Yes it's going well thanks. May need to change radiator as neck is worn...I have put a rubber washer in to get me by and make seal but suspect I will need to replace at some stage.
 
Going back to this item - what should it do? I have disconnected it and it doesn't seem to do anything. I suspect it should push outwards (towards cab) and return accelerator pedal to idle?
 

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it is just a dampner to slow the return of the control cable to help keep the machine from stopping suddenly. so if your foot slid off of the peddle you wont kiss the windshield. kind of like a shock absorber but both ways.
 
Is it likely I will get a spider kit to fit CV joints? The holes/lugs appear very worn (closing in areas)....perhaps not worth hassle attempting it. Suspect it has been driving on one for a while....if that is possible?
 
only way to drive on one side would be to lock the differential. probably why it is stuck. you might be able to fit new joints in those yokes. is the groove that holds the snap ring still intact. if it isn't the spiders will work loose and the needle bearings will crush. i would look for rebuilt or good used.
 
my favorite oil for this kind of problem is ATF in an oil can with a pump. for real stubborn stuff you can mix atf with acetone but i wouldn't use that around rubber.
 
Drained HST today and found bits of metal...suspect bearing housing?? Suspect previous fault or should I open up to be sure??!
 

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this came out of the tank? i don't think anything that big would make it past the filters into the tank. if you could get a filter cutter and look at the filter media it would tell you more. don't use a hacksaw. i suspect that metal is something that fell into the tank when filling.
 
It doesn't seem to resemble anything I recognised from opening up previous machine other than bearings on swash plates? Quite big bits and was surprised to find them! Maybe someone has dropped something into it (as I say kids were using it as a climbing frame in a park for a number of years!!). Sand was in fuel tank and brake reservoir...all flushed now thankfully!! Will I hold off opening up do you think? We were getting drive before with no clunking and banging noises. Worth noting drive was the tested with axle removed and all jacked up. The oil was very dark and had some dead beasties in it! There was also what appeared to be organic growth...gunky white stuff (small amounts). Thanks
 
Photo of plug showing metal shavings too. Opinion still same? Thanks
 

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Ok will see how we get on. Drive shaft/CV joint in hand but need circlip removing tool...mine aren't strong enough...!! Put aside and looking at steering...as this was on a farm park for kids to play on the hydraulic hoses to the steering were cut (to avoid trapped fingers!)...trying to figure out how to get into hose connections at steering wheel end....very tight space. Don't fancy stripping dash (seems massive job...taking cab off etc?). Thinking of cutting shroud off dash/steering wheel to get access....any thoughts? Thanks
 

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Had another look. It looks like cab, wings/nose etc all have to come off to allow dash to be extracted(they all seem to sit on top of it). Then all dash instruments too? Had a search on internet but can see anyone else removing one.
 
can you just remove the fixings and slip the sandwiched dash from under the wings and rest. or can you remove the steering column as a unit replace hose then reassemble
 
Will have a look again today but suspect not. The steering shroud/cone is part of the dash so will prevent movement and will need pulled outwards I think.
 
Steering on hold whilst I think about it in more depth!! I hear you can use joints to repair but maybe not enough space for 4 of them and they are quite expensive...maybe more than new pipes. Back onto axle and found suspect for metal deposits....bearing to axles...this. One is complete but one must have broken up previously. This one is showing a little rust so may renew if it doesn't clean up.
 

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