My new old 240D has some issues. Please, ideas, suggestions, input needed.

Hey Mark and the rest of the great folks ,
Well, I received a manual yesterday. Man, it's great to have an operators manual!!
I'm think I may have over reacted about my tractor not running right. I was under the impression that my tractor should start when the hand throttle is positioned just about the "off" position , but the manual says to start the tractor in the full throttle position....which is the only place mine will start anyway. It doesn't say anything about any other position whether the tractor is warm or not. The only other starting sequence that differs is if using the TS starting method in cold weather. And it states that the de-compression lever should be used for any starting method. And since the guy who was showing me the tractor and telling me all he knew about the tractor(which now I see wasn't much) never even used the de-compression lever....I was just under the assumption that my tractor wasn't running right nor starting correctly. Also, I now think that the picture in the manual that I was using as a reference for the positioning of the hand throttle was just that.....just a reference picture....showing the forward most postion...and then showing an approximate " part throttle idle " position.....so I may have been taking the pic for way more than I should have. Only the other day I started using the decompression lever, and that made it a lot easier to start....a lot easier. Hopefully tomorrow I will have my starter gear assy and then starting the tractor will be that much easier. Oh, and I used the tractor off an on for about 3 hours yesterday. I got it into a small area in the back of our property...not real level and just took my time. I used the 4WD and the differential lock......man, it digs in! I pulled out a bunch of manzanita stumps and 2 manzanita bushes that were still growing...not a problem.
I guess my biggest problem is fixing the hand throttle so it doesn't slowly vibrate back to the off position. Mark had mentioned something about dimpling the leather washer or something like that, but I couldn't see one. Are you talking about the throttle lever pivot area kind of near the " right " knee area ? Right now, I think that's one issue that really needs to be fixed....along with my trans jumping out of the 2 low gears. Anyway, not working on the tractor today, but reading the manual from front to rear. And until yesterday, I didn't even know my tractor had a " range " selector...which gives the tractor 8 forward gears and 2 reverse. The guy that was selling the tractor for the lady told me that was a second PTO lever....or something like that. Anyway, tomorrow I am going at it hard again, just trying to fix some little things. I've posted a pic showing the shift rod sticking out the front of the trans housing? I am sure that is why I am jumping out of the 2 lowest gears as I can see that the shifter rids on that rod when manipulating those 2 low gears. Suggestions? Can I pull the top of the trans and fix this issue...or is this a " shop " thing. Also, I've got a ram on the FEL that leaks....it just started...can I repair that or is it something only a Hydralics shop can perform? Okay.....more tomorrow. And thanks again all for helping me thus far figure these things out.... You guys are great!
 

Attachments

  • 620 - 7.jpg
    620 - 7.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 34
Okay Guys,
Here are a few new questions. Not knowing for sure how many hours my tractor has....494, 1494, etc, and not knowing when last fluids were changed, I figure it might be best to begin replacing. And, because I have that leak in the FEL ram, I should check that hydraulic oil as well. While I'm at it, I guess I should drain the coolant and engine oil and go through those.
From what I understand in the manual....the trans oil is also the hydraulic oil, is that right?
So, since you guys have experience with the Yanmars, these are " which fluid do you recommend " questions.
The manual recommends JD 303...or something like that, for the trans/hydraulic. What do you guys use.
Engine oil......I've heard of Delo....but again, what do you guys use. I am guessing a 30wt oil because most of my tractor time will probably be in 60 degree weather and above....except when I've got to move snow from the driveway...woohooooo...no more shovel work!
The manual says it's good to use an anti rust & antifreeze with soft water for coolant. I've never seen an anti rust solution, but then, maybe I've never looked. Do any of you guys use it?
Lastly, the oil filter. Do any of you guys have any napa, wix, etc. numbers that I can use to purchase a correct oil filter?
 
Did you read Mark's reply to your same questions, over on MTF?

This is the identical text you posted on MTF and he already answered it there. And I had previously answered some of those here.

Now I see you have posted the identical text a third time, on TBN.

I think it's time to sit down and read the manual.

Everything you just asked 3 different places, is in the book.

Also the Search function on all three sites can answer these questions without setting three different groups of people off composing replies to you, when you are just going to ignore the second and third respondents. Maybe even the first respondent!

We would love to help you get that thing running - but we're hoping the answers we provide are being applied. When we see the same question a day later, we wonder.
 
Whoaaa.....I didn't mean to ruffle anyone feathers by asking questions...in this forum or the other 2. But I just got back in from working...and no, I didn't see that anyone had answered any questions until right now. I'd posted those a little earlier before going outside to work. But I'm curious California....as to which questions I asked today that I had answers to before? I may have repeated a couple of questions, yes, but only because I either didn't understand the answer (pertaining to dimpling the leather disk on the hand throttle) or because I didn't see an answer ( pertaining to the question I had about the shift rod sticking out of the trans). I did read the manual front to back...but only once, and no where did it I see an answer for those 2 questions....which doesn't mean I won't read it a second time. I've posted some answers inside the quote as well as after.

California said:
Did you read Mark's reply to your same questions, over on MTF?

Yes, just now....

This is the identical text you posted on MTF and he already answered it there. And I had previously answered some of those here.

My error if you or others have answered questions I've asked...I must have missed them...but honestly, I think I've read every post in this thread and believe I'm only asking questions that I hadn't gotten answers to...and are still issues that I'm trying to fix.

Now I see you have posted the identical text a third time, on TBN.

Okay, yes, I posted the same question on NTT, MTF & TBN. Now I'm a little put off because I really don't understand your point. Are you telling me that I can't ask the same questions in different forums? Possibly getting some other input and ideas as to how to resolve an issue? That's beginning to sound a bit like somebody else is trying to call the shots as to what I can ask and where. I belong to a number of other forums..mostly hotrod forums and 4X4 forums...and have belonged to those forums for some years and never have I had someone remark about asking the same questions in other forums. As a matter of fact, it's pretty much common practice. We have members in those forums that belong to mulitple forums of the same interest. And again, it's common to see the same questions asked by the same member in different forums and clubs....they get more answers from the different forums and when all is said and done, it may have been more useful to have all the opinions or ideas....there may have just been 1 answer in the group of responses that helped resolve the issue. That's been my findings many times. I'm surely not asking anyone who is a member of mutiple forums to answer my questions in each forum.

I think it's time to sit down and read the manual.
Everything you just asked 3 different places, is in the book.

Okay, fair enough...I'll go back through it again....I planned on it. And as soon as I find where in the Operators manual is explains how I can keep the hand throttle from vibrating back to the " off " position, I'll make note of it and get that fixed.....and the same with the shift rod issue.

Also the Search function on all three sites can answer these questions without setting three different groups of people off composing replies to you, when you are just going to ignore the second and third respondents. Maybe even the first respondent!

I honestly don't think I've " ignored " anyones responses...but if I have, it wasn't intentional....just possible overlooked. Nor do I feel as though I am " setting three different groups of people off to compose replies ". If someone wants to share an idea as to one of my issues...great. Again, I feel as anyone that shares with me wants to. And,, in most cases you will see that I've tried my best to stay on top of the responses by thanking each individual that has responded....whether it had to do with a technical question or just making a crack about the color of my tractor.....which I get a kick out of as well.
I've been using the search function....and have answered a ton of questions that I haven't asked here because I found the answers there....but I'm sure as we all know, the search functions on any site can give you a ton of stuff to pic through....and not always successfully.


We would love to help you get that thing running - but we're hoping the answers we provide are being applied. When we see the same question a day later, we wonder.
Click to expand...

Okay, again, if I've ruffled someone feathers by posting the same questions in 3 different forums...well that's something you are going to have to live with.....unless of course you are the " forum police " and I've broken some forum rule....then if I have, I apologize. But I didn't read anything like that in the forum rules. And, had I read that it was against forum ettiquette to post the same questions in other forums, well, I probably wouldn't have joined to begin with. Now, if your point is that all my questions have been asked and answered, then I do honestly apologize. In most of my posts, I've begun by explaining my progress on the tractor and then towards the end of the post, ask any questions I'm still having problems with or questions I didn't see answered.....and in the more recent posts I explained that I may have jumped the gun about the tractor running badly and then, I admit, asked again about the " vibrating hand throttle " condition I'm experiencing...and then about the shift rod. I don't remember getting an answer about the shift rod...I'll look again, but feel free to point out that response to me. My last post was about fluids and filters. I did ask about fuel filters before, but in this last post, I asked about cross over #s for wix, napa, fram, etc....I'd not asked about those before. And the same about hydraulic fluids, specialty anti freeze solutions and motor oil. I don't remember ever asking about those before or asking what you guys recommended.....but maybe I'm wrong. And I will look at the manual again....looking for more info. Any anyone wanting to point out the page of the manual that tells me specifically which oil filter I need to purchase, please don't hold back.
I will make a point to go back and read every post in each forum though. And, specifically, I posted those questions today, in the other 2 forums because I hadn't gotten anything as of about 10 am this morning from the MTF site and was concerned about getting some recommendations from members because we don't make many trips down the mountain to town where I can purchase oil, filters, etc....and I have to make the trip tomorrow to take my daughter to the Drs.....and felt that if I posted the questions today in the other 2 forums, maybe I'd get some answers and be a little further educated as to what to purchase, since we don't have a ton of selection up here, and I don't want to bring something back up here that I can't use. The cost of fuel being a big factor anymore.
Anyway, I'm done here... Again, if I've offended anyone by asking questions or possible missing an answer....I apologize. But, I'm way more approachable when someone tells me where I missed something....and far less approachable when I feel someones gotten mouthy with me, then tries to sugar coat it with " we'd love to help you get that thing running" and in the same sentence, basically saying.... "but you aren't applying what we are telling you". I think I've applied everything that has been suggested.....that's why the tractors running. I won't even get into the " we wonder " .....
Sorry California...... If you feel you aren't satisfied with how I approach asking questions....or if you feel that I haven't " applied " the suggestions given to me in this or the other forums my only suggestion is then don't waste your time reading my posts. I have been thankful to your responses and ideas...and have said so in my posts and found them useful in helping me with getting my tractor back to a safe running condition. But hey, my intentions are to get my tractor running and make some friends while doing so....so if my posts are getting under your skin....I suggest you don't read 'em. At 52 yo....I wouldn't be reading yours or anyone elses if it was p***in' me off.
 
Relax. There's no 'Forum Police' here! (But I guess I *did* PO one poster a while back. He posted nonsense into a technical Yanmar thread. I told him, as a poster, not as moderator, that his 'humor' wasn't appreciated and didn't fit the thread. He went ballistic. That's the only incident I've ever heard of here.)

I'm just speaking as an individual - who has walked your path, asked the same questions, 4.5 years ago with the same model tractor. Now I enjoy sharing what I have learned along the way.

I recall seeing your fuel bleeding question asked a few hours after I posted an answer, and I recently posted more detail than anyone wants to know about the oil filter, on TBN where a search would reveal it. The fluids are described in the manual, and, again, have been discussed many times on these sites where a search will find them.

I'm interested in helping on the stuff that is unique to your tractor. I like these Yanmars, and encourage you to get that one set up properly. I may sound a little grumbly, sorry!

Hey I deserve to be grumbly if I want. I'm nearly a generation older than you! :D

I'll keep reading your stuff. Hope you keep reading my conributions too.
 
Hey California,
I understand where your coming from. And I appreciate your experience and knowledge of the tractor. I do believe I should make better use of the search function, and, at times, I do ask a question before researching the search function.....but I'll get back to searching with a little more diligence. Anyhow, yes, I'll keep reading your contributions.....I've found a wealth of info from you posted both in replies to my questions and on other topics posted here. I really am feeling more comfortable now with this tractor since I've played with it a bit more....and not feeling so much like " uh oh, what did I get myself into " as I did when I first got it home.
Yeah, I guess we all have the right to feel a bit more gumbly. And if I don't normally have a reason to feel grumbly, well, I've got a 12 year old daughter that can get me there real quick....a lot quicker than a 27 year old tractor can.
Anyway, no harm no foul....and again, I appreciate all your input. Thanks.
Brian
 
splat55 said:
I guess my biggest problem is fixing the hand throttle so it doesn't slowly vibrate back to the off position. Mark had mentioned something about dimpling the leather washer or something like that, but I couldn't see one. Are you talking about the throttle lever pivot area kind of near the " right " knee area ? Right now, I think that's one issue that really needs to be fixed
Click to expand...

splat,
I didn't see if this question had been adequately answered here, but I'll try. Behind the plate at the bottom of the throttle lever is a washer. Some people call it a friction disc, others call it a friction washer. That could be split like mine was. Or the whole thing just needs tightened up. There is a nut on the inside that might need tightened.
There is a picture of it at Hoye's site under the YM2000, same as your model. Look chassis parts then throttle. Click here
Mark suggested at one point to put a dimple in the plate on the bottom of the throttle lever. That will work too if the friction washer is still in there.

The bad hose can be repaired/replaced at most hydraulic shops.
 
Hey Ohio,
Excellent...thanks for that link. I tried finding that particular parts break down, but didn't have any luck. I'm going to have to take a look at that assy. I have one question about Hoye parts break down pages. I see like most manuals the parts are numbered....but no part number or name relating to the parts? Are the parts names and numbers listed somewhere else on the site? It would seem that there would be part #s and part names somewhere so one could order the part if need be.
I see you answered the question also under one of my other threads....again, thank you.

OhioTC18 said:
splat,
I didn't see if this question had been adequately answered here, but I'll try. Behind the plate at the bottom of the throttle lever is a washer. Some people call it a friction disc, others call it a friction washer. That could be split like mine was. Or the whole thing just needs tightened up. There is a nut on the inside that might need tightened.
There is a picture of it at Hoye's site under the YM2000, same as your model. Look chassis parts then throttle. Click here
Mark suggested at one point to put a dimple in the plate on the bottom of the throttle lever. That will work too if the friction washer is still in there.

The bad hose can be repaired/replaced at most hydraulic shops.
Click to expand...
 
splat55 said:
Hey Ohio,
I see like most manuals the parts are numbered....but no part number or name relating to the parts? Are the parts names and numbers listed somewhere else on the site? It would seem that there would be part #s and part names somewhere so one could order the part if need be.
Click to expand...

Click on the number itself in the interactive link I gave you. The part name, number and price will be shown.
 
Okay....now I feel like a buffoon......Earlier when I was on the site I read the " click on your parts number " .....but, like an idiot, I was clicking on the part...not the number. I just figured that feature was inoperative or my browser was messin' with me again.
Anyway.....COOL! Man, that makes it easy! Thanks Ohio!


OhioTC18 said:
Click on the number itself in the interactive link I gave you. The part name, number and price will be shown.
Click to expand...
 
Okay Guys.....finally some progress. I ended up getting my starter drive mid week...a little later than I expected it to arrive and R&R'd it last night....this morning I installed it and wooohoooo....I have engagement each and everytime I hit the key (now that the starter works first time,every time, I kind of wish I could get that %#$ key out of the ignition). Man, that was a biggie for me cause you know what a pain it is to try and troubleshoot something that only starts about 3 out of 10 times. Then, as a few of you guys recommended regarding the vibrating hand throttle, I was able just to snug up the 2 nuts on the back.....and now I can get it to idle no matter where I put the stick....except of course in the " off/die" position.
I know it's not much, but hey, just those 2 fixes have made a tractor that was almost " no fun " to start and use....a whole lot better!
Also, after some research and finding some information on the ROPS that came unattached with my tractor, ..i.e., manufacturer, Model #, etc., I find it's not a unit for my tractor at all...not even for a Yanmar. So, instead of trying to fab that unit to work on my tractor....which may or may not provide the saftey required, I've decided just to purchase a new unit for my tractor as California suggested. I could easily spend $300....and possibly closer to $400 just to make the ROPS work on my 240D...and then it still wouldn't be designed for my specific tractor. And although the unit has the OSHA labels and is rated at 2500 lbs, the fabricated mount still might not hold up to the tractor tipping on it's side, let alone a complete roll over. And, I'd also still have to purchase the restraining belts and modify them to work with this ROPS. By that time....with the $$ invested, I'd been better off just purchasing the correct unit for my tractor....so that's what I'm going to do.
I've still got a lot to do on the tractor....but I have all the fluids to change this weekend and then I'm going to try and confirm where my hydralic fluid is leaking from.....FEL Ram I believe. More progress reports later. Thanks guys for all your help so far!
 
Glad to see you've made that amount of progress.
Take a look at your key. I knew a guy that screwed his in with a small sheet metal screw through the head at an angle. His key kept falling out when bouncing around and that solved it for him. Maybe something silly like that happened to yours.
I do know that Wayne at LMTC sells a ROPS for your 240. It can be shipped to you, probably R+L Carriers into Modesto. Wayne uses R+L alot. Click on the LMTC link above for info.
 
Hey Ohio,
Yeah, ya know, I haven't looked real close at that ignition...you could be right about something silly like a screw holding it in cause I don't know why it wouldn't just pull out. Yeah, it's great having the starter and throttle working right. I just took it for a drive around the property....even threw it into high gear to see what that speed was like. Did that mostly because I gave my 12 year old daughter the DYT 4000 since I got this one...but didn't know till recently that I had 8 forward gears.....and the range selector was obviously in low...cause I only had slow and slower. And my daughter got a kick out of how slow the tractor would go...and the fact that our DYT 4000 could run circles around the Yanmar. Anyway, looks like I won't need the high range very often, that's for sure.
I just contacted LMTC by email as you recommended to get a quote on the shipping out here. I didn't see a teminal for R&L in Modesto...but there is one in Chico...and depending on the cost, I might just have it delivered to our home....only $30 more. I've gotten a quote from Hoye, Fredricks and even a place here in CA...but after everything is said and done and paying sales tax here in CA....so far Fredricks is giving the lowest price to get one here to me. And the place here in Calif...well, they sent me some instructions today on their model...and I have to say, the mounting system looks a little cheesier...and the whole unit looked a little cheaper made.....round tubing...etc. Anyway, thanks for the heads up on LMTC.

Brian
 
Brian,
No problem. Wayne is a stand up guy. I've known him for a few years. The ROPS from Fredericks is probably the same as they both belong to the same dealer association UTDA.

There is another member of their group that is closer to you in Texas RCO Tractor , shipping may be less.

R+L has terminals in both Modesto and Chico whichever is closer to you.
 
Splatt,

Check with Dave's Tractor in Red Bluff. Great guy, honest dealer and former Yanmar expert. He is now a Branson-Mahindra dealer but still dabbles in his first love, gray market tractors. He may have exactly what you're looking for...or can get it.

http://www.davestractor.com/

Just thinking that the Red Bluff-Chico area is better accessable and might save you from freight charges.

Mark
 
Hey Mark and Ohio,
I've contacted both RCO and Dave's tractor. Thanks for the info. Hopefully I will be able to get something here in a week or so. Till then, it's back out to the tractor for troubleshooting.
 
splat55 said:
ended up getting my starter drive... installed it and wooohoooo....I have engagement each and every time

Then, as a few of you guys recommended regarding the vibrating hand throttle, I was able just to snug up the 2 nuts on the back.....and now I can get it to idle no matter where I put the stick...

those 2 fixes ........a whole lot better!

Also, after some research and finding some information on the ROPS that came unattached with my tractor, ... I find it's not a unit for my tractor at all...not even for a Yanmar. ...although the unit has the OSHA labels and is rated at 2500 lbs, ... better off just purchasing the correct unit for my tractor....
Click to expand...

Great news! As I had hoped for you, there is a good tractor hiding under all those "deferred maintenance :)" minor issues.

If the previous owner had followed the maintenance schedule and kept up with minor stuff like the throttle linkage discs, you wouldn't have inherited all those issues to do at once.

Before replacing the trans/hydraulic fluid, line up a source for a replacement filter screen ('strainer') and its correct o-ring. ($60 total.) Mine was stuck solid and I destroyed it getting it out. I found that a way-oversize o-ring had been used that jammed the strainer solidly into the transmission casting. I was down for a week, and finally found the strainer at Hoyetractor.

I use the cheapskate JD303-compatible Coastal tractor fluid from Autozone. Expect it to take about 4 gallons.

You are doing the right thing getting the proper ROPS. I think the folding one sourced from Fredricks (and sold by several dealers) is far better than the rigid one I've seen advertised.

That 2500 lb ROPS you received is unsuitable. My tractor with the Great Bend loader and those oversize tires, but no ballast, weighed some 3,000 lbs on a truck scale. (5,000 including a uhaul trailer with a 2,000 lb tare label). Add my disc 685 lbs, Quick Hitch 65 lbs, water ballast in the tires 250 lbs filled 50%, a couple hundred lbs ballast on the disc, then me, and I'm over the 4,000 lbs specified on the ROPS label. Your 4x4 is another couple hundred lbs heavier. I don't expect to crash at 5mph like the OSHA standard specifies, but a flop-over on a side slope is very possible. I assume your use is similar if you are discing firebreaks.

UPS shipping on my ROPS to the ranch was only $65. I expect home delivery would be cheaper than driving 100 miles to a freight terminal. Maybe order it through Dave's, if he will place the order, but have it shipped to you. Dave has been helpful to me with advice.
 
Hey, thanks California. Yeah, I can see that the tractor had been neglected. As you suggested I think I am going to wait to change the hydraulic oil until I have the filter screen and O-ring. I didn't get enough oil the first time out anyway......I only got a gallon figuring before flushing the whole system, I'd top it off and see if I can find the leaks. I did see some oil sitting on top of the trans....just behind the shifter....so I guess I've got to figure out where it's coming from although I expect there is a gasket on that plate that the shifter sits in....I'm hoping its just a gasket there anyway. I did the same as you, went to Napa, and got the Napa brand JD 303 equivalent.
As far as the rops, I'm still waiting for a quote from Dave's....and another place and hope to have all my ducks in a row on Monday so I can order. Hopefully whoever has the rops will have the filter, O-ring, the thermostart tank and a couple of other small things I need. But, yeah, the weight specs you mentioned are far more than that little rops I have can endure. I've listed it on a couple of tractor sites and the local craigs list hoping someone will want it and help defer the cost of the unit I need. Either way, by Tuesday latest I'm ordering one. It's all that's really keeping me from testing the tractor a bit more.
I've got a question for ya....I've looked at my manual and see the pic of the hydraulic filter screen....but am unclear on the picture...is it in the rear of the tractor?
Well, I haven't done much on the tractor at all today cause we did some family stuff, but there's still a little sunlight left and I'm going to go check a couple things on the tractor. Talk to you all soon.
 
Brian, if you're seeing fluid at the shifter boot, check the vent tubes on the rear axle, they may be clogged. They are a U shaped tube sticking up out of the axle housing. As for the thermostart bowl and lid, check out some prescription meds caps. I had one that snapped on perfectly. Worked for me.
 
Hey California or anyone out there,
I've been looking for the part # for the filter screen and O-ring for my tractors hydraulic system. I've been to the Hoye site, Fredricks, gone through my manual and I still can't find anything. I may have missed it but does anyone have the part # for those 2 items? Thanks guys.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top