Kubota RTV 900 transmission problem - hardley moves in gear!
- Thread starter PACKASAURAS
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i would say you probably are going to need a new axle shaft complete. looks like the boot has been off and the cv joint is dead.
I agree with Aurthuritis. I thought you were talking about the center shaft -front to back drive shaft on the earlier models. .
There are some sources of aftermarket on the front axles , I believe some members have bought them but I haven't. I have only replaced the front boots on the '05 model 900 I had. I have done the rear ujoints/boots several times and know that there are aftermarkets for those.
There are several threads on here about removing the front side shafts in order to replace boots etc .
I'd also check the rear ujoints when you have time . Just jack it up and spin the wheels by hand, yanking and pulling all while looking for slack in them. bordercollie
edit: Check this thread for the aftermarket and how several of us did the job. I think you'll find it very helpful . http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14060&highlight=boots
There are some sources of aftermarket on the front axles , I believe some members have bought them but I haven't. I have only replaced the front boots on the '05 model 900 I had. I have done the rear ujoints/boots several times and know that there are aftermarkets for those.
There are several threads on here about removing the front side shafts in order to replace boots etc .
I'd also check the rear ujoints when you have time . Just jack it up and spin the wheels by hand, yanking and pulling all while looking for slack in them. bordercollie
edit: Check this thread for the aftermarket and how several of us did the job. I think you'll find it very helpful . http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14060&highlight=boots
Thanks - there is a little slack in rear joints but guess there should be tolerance? I wouldn't say they are loose but have a little movement in them...hopefully that is ok? I've managed to get the front drive shaft off....the amount of dirt caught up in the front end was unbelievable!! The last owners must have been waiting through fields of mud - i even ended up taking front transmission guard off to clean it out!! In the process i noticed when the rtv was hacked up at the front, when i turned the central drive shaft it would rotate the disconnected nearside drive leading to the wheel, however it would not rotate the offside one....does this suggest i have another problem? Both wheels were off the ground. Any advise would be appreciated before i put it back together!! Also not sure whether o buy complete new driver shaft or buy individual parts and repair? Repair is cheaper however i suspect it will take time and all other parts are partly worn?? Many thanks, Dave
when i turned the central drive shaft it would rotate the disconnected nearside drive leading to the wheel, however it would not rotate the offside one
sounds like your differential is working. don't forget to change the oil in the front differential and the outside hubs on the front axle. play in the rear u joints means near replacement.
sounds like your differential is working. don't forget to change the oil in the front differential and the outside hubs on the front axle. play in the rear u joints means near replacement.
The rear ujoints may last a while but as Aurthuritis said it means a replacement is it the future. Make sure that the rear bearings are ok, as in no tire wiggling top to bottom or side to side. No play there or it could mess up the mounting areas of those bearings and that really would be expensive.
In that thread I posted below, Banjo lists a source of the complete front end axles. I've never used them but he seems to have liked them . Already assembled with the boots, new splined shafts.... I would consider them when my turn comes. I seem to remember that the oem were priced much higher but them my memory is getting a little dense at times. bordercollie
In that thread I posted below, Banjo lists a source of the complete front end axles. I've never used them but he seems to have liked them . Already assembled with the boots, new splined shafts.... I would consider them when my turn comes. I seem to remember that the oem were priced much higher but them my memory is getting a little dense at times. bordercollie
Thanks folks. I had a look at Minnicks website which is great and has really good info but unfortunately they do not post out of the US. I am in Scotland and whilst there are Kubota dealers they do not appear to offer the same range of parts to allow repairs which results in total replacement of whole parts at a expense! Re the 4wd function, with the front end jacked up a d i rotate the central drive shaft by hand (simulating 4wd engaged) only one front wheel turns - why would this be, why wouldn't both turn? Sorry just reworded to check all is ok or if further investigations are required. Many thanks, Dave
i think your front differential is functioning as it should. when you turn the front propeller shaft try grabbing the wheel that turns and it should stop and the other will begin to turn. it is a function built in so you can turn without gear hopping because the inside wheel turns slower than the outside wheel in a turn.
Have you checked with the aftermarket company that Banjo used? Maybe they ship out of the states? Sometimes I see such items on e bay. I know it must be really aggravating if not able to get those parts delivered to your country. collie.
A little update ! Good news Ive sourced a local trader who can get me gunuine parts at decent prices! Managed to get complete drive shaft for £230 which i thought was reasonable. Now fitted and had it jacked up to check 4wd is working and all seems good (now semi understand drive taking path of least resistance!). Ive changed all filters (incl fuel)....the only filter i havent changed is the inner air filter as it didnt come with service kit for some reason....will order and change though. Had out for run but top speed in only 10mph.... getting 5mph in low, 7mph in medium and 10 in high. Had it jacked up with no resistance and speed results are same. Not too sure what next step is....read some people refering to spark arrest, however trust this isnt on a diesel? Others refer to adjsting the servo....has anyone experienced this issue with speed, if so what is recommended route? Does it sound like i need to go back into the transmission further or more to do with tweaking and adjusting? I should also add that the engine seems to be working and accelerating harder than the drive/motion (out of proportion). Thank you.
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there is a spark arrestor in the muffler. look at the pipe that exits the muffler and there should be a flange with two torx head bolts. very carefully take the bolts out and remove the tail pipe and you will see a screen that is probably plugged with soot. clean it with solvent and reinstall with anti seize on the threads. to much back pressure will definitely make it run poorly.
A clogged spark arrestor will sure cause that , just as Aurthuritis says. Spark arrestors that are clogged rob power even though the fuel pedal is pressed all the way down.( My gas blower had the same thing happen to it as did my RTV - no power. )
Those tail pipe bolts are real boogers if they are fused/rusted on from the heat. Don't be tempted to cut off the inner part of the arrestor that is clogged when you pull it out to clean. It is balanced and may cause the tail pipe of the muffler to crack loose and fall off the back end later ..if that's done. The screens there have been known to be "fiddled with" if a person doesn't live in a dry area. Otherwise spark arrestors are necessary like in fire danger areas or if on govt land etc.. bordercollie
Check your spark arrestor first !
A clogged spark arrestor will sure cause that , just as Aurthuritis says. Spark arrestors that are clogged rob power even though the fuel pedal is pressed all the way down.( My gas blower had the same thing happen to it as did my RTV - no power. )
Those tail pipe bolts are real boogers if they are fused/rusted on from the heat. Don't be tempted to cut off the inner part of the arrestor that is clogged when you pull it out to clean. It is balanced and may cause the tail pipe of the muffler to crack loose and fall off the back end later ..if that's done. The screens there have been known to be "fiddled with" if a person doesn't live in a dry area. Otherwise spark arrestors are necessary like in fire danger areas or if on govt land etc.. bordercollie
Thanks, I will have another look but I could not see anything obvious on the end of the exhaust yesterday. There is plenty of life in the engine (responding band revving well) it just its transferring to the drive....would a faulty spark arrestor not affect the engine more than drive? Thanks
your machine may have an aftermarket exhaust or something different for a regional sales program. could you post a pic? a restricted exhaust will affect torque. might as well cross all of out T's before tearing into the works though your plates probably need replaced and your charge pressure is probably low. get some gauges and check pressures???
The early RTV 900s had a little screen that was held onto the end of the tailpipe externally. It was held on with a little sheet metal screw and would fall off after a period of time. If your machine had one of those, it's probably a little hole in the end of the tail pipe and the screen is probably long gone. The later models have the internal arresters.
We are just trying to eliminate the easy stuff first. Best of luck on solving the mystery easily. bordercollie
We are just trying to eliminate the easy stuff first. Best of luck on solving the mystery easily. bordercollie
Just saw your pictures. I've never seen anything like that. The early models had the screen the same size as the tail pipe . Sorta like a larger screen on a water faucet or hose. How does it run with that first picture thing removed?
There is probably an allen head plug in the bottom of the muffler. In the early ones you could temporary remove it then tap muffler wit a rubber mallet. then race the engine. soot would be blown out and condensate if present. If never removed, that could be a real tight and hard to get out. I think I may see it there about an inch from the rear bottom. bordercollie
There is probably an allen head plug in the bottom of the muffler. In the early ones you could temporary remove it then tap muffler wit a rubber mallet. then race the engine. soot would be blown out and condensate if present. If never removed, that could be a real tight and hard to get out. I think I may see it there about an inch from the rear bottom. bordercollie
oooh yees get that thing out of there!
