Hello,im very new an need help please

uncleDerek

uncleDerek

Active member
Ok,as I sit with a knot in my stomach thinking I really got screwed tonight.i struggled so hard to save 4,500$ to buy a old rtv I needed for my property im trying to live on.i found one on fb marketplace. Its listed as a 2011 kabota 900 dieasel. Not perfect by any means but I don't have a lot of money an dont expect anything near perfect just as long as it would run an mechanically help me get around since I got hurt.i went there with the cash an paid asking price of 4,500$ idk hours couldt tell,an the alternator belt was in his hand when I showed up .after driving 3 hours there I asked him to just please be honest with me as I can't afford to have big mechanical problem at moment.since I couldn't really drive it its dark an late he started it an assured me it was a good running engine.well I'm home now looked at the vin an im thinking I already got lied to,an im so nervous an sick.also I looked under the front leaf springs an the chasis is almost gone.if anyone could please confirm my year,an or any info I would be so grateful.this is my first time here an posting,so not sure what to do.
I will write my vin here at the end.an please tell me if you think I'm getting taken advantage of.its rotted pretty bad the floors were gone at some point someone patched them I guess.i will know more tommorow in the light an when I get it in the garage.all help here be so greatly appreciated an idk what I can even do about this if I was lied to about the year.
Vin is krtv900a410 11127
Was told its a 2011 rtv 900
 

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4500 for a 2011 would be way to low unless something was wrong with it. For a 2004 that would be a fair price. Hope it runs okay. No clue what recourse you have for him lying.
 
It's definitely a 2004, and an early one at that. The 4 in the 9th character is they year on the early RTV's (10th position if the VIN is 17 characters). They started the VIN count at 10000 so that's the 1127th one ever made.
Floor boards rusting out is relatively common issue for these.
Let us know what the hour meter reads.
He got it started, right? Once you confirm it runs and drives, I'd start going over the machine and at minimum, change the fluids and filters. Use only OEM Kubota filters and fluids. It does make a difference.
 
Doc said:
4500 for a 2011 would be way to low unless something was wrong with it. For a 2004 that would be a fair price. Hope it runs okay. No clue what recourse you have for him lying.
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Thank you so much for your reply,an making me feel a bit better,I had to buy a alternator today for 400$ a belt,just so I could here it run,an so far.knock on wood,seems ok.i was so upset when I got home,zero antifreeze in radiator or engine,alternator was locked solid,an the front chasis at leaf spring well let's just say there isn't any.im a retired welder fabricator,an its hard for me to do major repairs now.so I just asked him straight out ,please just tell me if anything is wrong with the chasis,I can an dont mind fixing rust an rot anywhere else.just not the chasis.well I took his word.my fault I guess.im hoping he will atleast give me the cost of the alternator back.since I was told just needed a belt.thank you very much again an do these hours seem ok for this year?
 

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bczoom said:
It's definitely a 2004, and an early one at that. The 4 in the 9th character is they year on the early RTV's (10th position if the VIN is 17 characters). They started the VIN count at 10000 so that's the 1127th one ever made.
Floor boards rusting out is relatively common issue for these.
Let us know what the hour meter reads.
He got it started, right? Once you confirm it runs and drives, I'd start going over the machine and at minimum, change the fluids and filters. Use only OEM Kubota filters and fluids. It does make a difference.
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Hello,an yes,I got it running,warmed it up,then drained the oil an did the oil an filter change. I got all my fluids,filters,an alternator an belt at my local kabota dealer today. Idk how to read the hour meter.so I will leave a photo,I see the numbers are missalingned,is that bad? Anyway its running,in place anyway,sounds good an does fire up instantly,the temp gauge does hang at idle right at beginning of the red though,never into the red...no electric fan kicking on yet.but havnt driven it once I do the rest of the fluids an confirm tranny is all good.i will have to remove the cab an completely redo the front chasis .wasn't looking forward to having to do that. I am happy to find it has the aux hydrolic in the back. Is that a normal thing on these or special? Also no tracking lok either .
 

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I wouldn't be too concerned about the floor rust or patching over it.
It's a common problem with RTVs used to spread salt.
I passed on RTVs being sold by rental companies that were like that.

2573 hours is not excessive for these machines. A lot depends on how well it is maintained.

If the temp gauge is working properly it should not read that high at idle.
My RTV when purchased had no coolant. Temp was normal, but when climbing a hill the gage was close to red.
Turned out to be a cracked head. Complete, ready to bolt on head assemblies are available for under $1K.

I would try replacing the thermostat first.
 
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v10rick said:
I wouldn't be too concerned about the floor rust or patching over it.
It's a common problem with RTVs used to spread salt.
I passed on RTVs being sold by rental companies that were like that.

2573 hours is not excessive for these machines. A lot depends on how well it is maintained.

If the temp gauge is working properly it should not read that high at idle.
My RTV when purchased had no coolant. Temp was normal, but when climbing a hill the gage was close to red.
Turned out to be a cracked head. Complete, ready to bolt on head assemblies are available for under $1K.

I would try replacing the thermostat first.
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Thank you,how an when should the electric fan kick on? Is it a water temp or oil temp sender? Because the fan wasn't kicking on at all,but never hit red.. also there's a lever on the floor by the seat...is that to lock rear wheels like the tractors?
 
v10rick said:
I wouldn't be too concerned about the floor rust or patching over it.
It's a common problem with RTVs used to spread salt.
I passed on RTVs being sold by rental companies that were like that.

2573 hours is not excessive for these machines. A lot depends on how well it is maintained.

If the temp gauge is working properly it should not read that high at idle.
My RTV when purchased had no coolant. Temp was normal, but when climbing a hill the gage was close to red.
Turned out to be a cracked head. Complete, ready to bolt on head assemblies are available for under $1K.

I would try replacing the thermostat first.
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Also,I don't believe its a gasket or head, there isn't any compression coming into the radiator,or coolant smell out exhaust,also nothing is mixing,....so far fingers crossed.prob thermostat, an or fan not kicking on.im not sure if I sent a reply already,I'm new to this, was wanting to know how many hours that reads or if you think those numbers have been flipped? I'm not sure how to read that with 10/s or 16/s
 
Yes, the little pedal next to the seat is the rear differential lock.
The hour meter looks like 2573 hours which I'd say is normal for being 18 years old. Properly maintained, you should expect at least 5000 hours out of the engine.
As mentioned, your temp gauge running near read is NOT normal and you should pursue diagnosing that situation. I have a 2004 and even in the middle of summer, under heavy load, I can barely get the gauge to come half way up.
 
bczoom said:
Yes, the little pedal next to the seat is the rear differential lock.
The hour meter looks like 2573 hours which I'd say is normal for being 18 years old. Properly maintained, you should expect at least 5000 hours out of the engine.
As mentioned, your temp gauge running near read is NOT normal and you should pursue diagnosing that situation. I have a 2004 and even in the middle of summer, under heavy load, I can barely get the gauge to come half way up.
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Thank you so very much,I'm a bit nervous now,but I will check thermostat, an do you know about the electric fan? How is it connected to kick on? Water temp,or oil temp? My electric fan never kicked on yet,although I never hit red either....when does yours kick on? At moment I'm tackling the frame that I was told had no issues at all,the frame is perfectly fine,I was told an in text!! .looks fine in the pics attached,doest it?...😪
 

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uncleDerek said:
Thank you so very much,I'm a bit nervous now,but I will check thermostat, an do you know about the electric fan? How is it connected to kick on? Water temp,or oil temp? My electric fan never kicked on yet,although I never hit red either....when does yours kick on? At moment I'm tackling the frame that I was told had no issues at all,the frame is perfectly fine,I was told an in text!! .looks fine in the pics attached,doest it?...😪
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Sad that the seller was not honest. There is nothing there to weld onto.

My rig came from an ebay seller who claimed it was working as it should.
Well it did run okay but the radiator was dry. Turned out a freeze plug was missing from the engine block.
When flushing a ton of rust from the system, is when I discovered the cracked head.

The fan may be disconnected.

This may help...
 
v10rick said:
Sad that the seller was not honest. There is nothing there to weld onto.

My rig came from an ebay seller who claimed it was working as it should.
Well it did run okay but the radiator was dry. Turned out a freeze plug was missing from the engine block.
When flushing a ton of rust from the system, is when I discovered the cracked head.

The fan may be disconnected.

This may help...
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I will fix the frame,I'm a retired welder fabricator,just not something I thought I be doing..is this a coolant filter here on the back? I want to flush the system but couldn't find any info on this filter? There is only one hose going to it,an it comes from thermostat housing.
 

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v10rick said:
That's a transmission filter.

Scroll to pdf page 92 or manual page 70 for details.
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Thank you yes I finally found a download for the utv.. an I can't believe the kabota dealer gave me 10 w 30 motor oil,an I changed all the filters, I gave them my model numbers an id numbers also told them it was a dieasel...I can't find anywhere where you would use 10 30 in a dieasel,...now I'm questioning all the filters I out on.....there probably ok....but the oil im not comfortable with.i know everyone has a opinion on oul.but I think we all agree 10 30 is wrong!
 
uncleDerek said:
I will fix the frame,I'm a retired welder fabricator,just not something I thought I be doing..is this a coolant filter here on the back? I want to flush the system but couldn't find any info on this filter? There is only one hose going to it,an it comes from thermostat housing.
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That is a transmission filter. There are 2 of them. If you're changing your tranny fluid, it's very important that you use OEM fluids and filters.

1671893778800.png
 
bczoom said:
That is a transmission filter. There are 2 of them. If you're changing your tranny fluid, it's very important that you use OEM fluids and filters.

View attachment 14354
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Got it,thank you very much,yes I found a download manual ,finally. I got some fleet filters that came with the rtv,that do match up too,but I'm going back to the kubots dealer Tuesday an will get theres.an get the CORRECT oil.not 10 w 30 that the lady at counter gave me.unreal.i said it was a diesel an also gave her my model an vin number.so I trusted I'd get the correct stuff.
Thank you again.
Happy holidays
 
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