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I need to clarify that, it will show you if your fuel gauge is bad.

You might want to check your gauge by plugging the wires from your temp gauge into your fuel gauge. This will show if your fuel sending unit is working. This is how they checked mine at the dealer. My gauge was bad.

I've used my brakes twice this year, more than usual.

I have pushed prodded etc and can make the muffler make noise but don't really see a cause. I wrapped some high temp tape around the last four inches of the tailpipe and the noise stopped. There is no spark arrestor, I checked internally with a piece of heavy gauge wire. The weld looks good...

I bought this machine used, it has 800 hours on it. The first thing I did was replace the driveshaft witht the beefier updated version that eliminates the carrier bearing. It seem to just make the noise while idling. When the machine is shut off I can grab the tailpipe and move it slighly...

I have an 05 rtv900. I'm hearing rattling from what sounds like the tailpipe. Is there a spark arrestor inside the pipe that might have deteriorated/come loose?

Nice mods Mark, you saved about $600 on your windshield, another overpriced Kubota part.

Thanks Mark,

It's to the point it would be cheaper to hire a weight lifter to ride with me and dump the bed than buy the OEM dump kit.

Does anyone make an aftermarket hydraulic dump bed kit for an RTV900? Or am I at the mercy of the dealership to the tune of $1400?

I'm sure this coast valve works great. It's just not needed when adjusted properly. My machine was one of the worst my dealership had ever seen as far as rapid deceleration. After adjustment it drives great. I have an older unit, an 05. I

Yes he was, so was Trigger.

Makes it hard if anyone not trained in the pedal feathering technique to drive the rig. It would make it like the Lone Ranger's horse, only he could ride it.

Sorry I don't, but I'm pretty sure there are several threads that discuss it. The way the mechanic at my dealership explained it to me is that in the past Kubota wouldn't let the dealerships adjust the rapid deceleration out of the machines. They thought it was a safety issue stopping an 1800...

Your dealer can adjust the rapid deceleration out of your rig. I had it done to mine. No need to buy the coast valve.

I'm afraid you'll have to give up the formed seat. But think of the challenge of training the new foam to fit your butt. It really doesn't take much time to adjust to the new foam. You actually only need to slice off the top couple of inches of your old foam and add a layer of new foam to...

Buy a set of covers on eBay, replace the factory foam and you'll be good to go. You might want to replace the plywood backing on the backrest while you're at it. I'll try to post a photo of mine.