aurthuritis
Well-known member
that is interesting. i wonder if there is a difference in the design by year? my peddle would definitely bind before bottoming out.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
X1100C adjusted the HVT more speed
- Thread starter aurthuritis
- Start date
Alaskanassasin
Senior Member
Bump
I found this yesterday and applied these recommendations. My RTV is a 2018 RTVX1100C.
First, the pedal did not bottom out. It rolled over the cam as it went too far with the HST speed rod disconnected. That only happened the first time and not the subsequent times. I then pushed the pedal to the floor and matched the HST rod to the full speed position (minus a bit). I then adjusted the throttle cable to remove a little bit of slack.
I started it up and couldn't get it in gear. The speed control lever was not in the neutral position after adjusting. I had to adjust it (shorten) the rod until it was in the N position with no throttle applied. I also adjusted the throttle cable where the pedal is to take up about 1/2" to 3/4" movement.
It now shifts better between N and R and H and L. Speed is the same but doesn't seem to lug as much.
With my RTV, with the AC on, the power is severely limited. Going up a slight grade forget about it. Maybe 6mph. These adjustments seem to have helped.
Does anyone have the procedure to check the transmission pressures? There is a set screw where the HST lever is that is didn't mess with. I assume that turning it in increases pressure but I'm not sure pressure to what?
Thanks
First, the pedal did not bottom out. It rolled over the cam as it went too far with the HST speed rod disconnected. That only happened the first time and not the subsequent times. I then pushed the pedal to the floor and matched the HST rod to the full speed position (minus a bit). I then adjusted the throttle cable to remove a little bit of slack.
I started it up and couldn't get it in gear. The speed control lever was not in the neutral position after adjusting. I had to adjust it (shorten) the rod until it was in the N position with no throttle applied. I also adjusted the throttle cable where the pedal is to take up about 1/2" to 3/4" movement.
It now shifts better between N and R and H and L. Speed is the same but doesn't seem to lug as much.
With my RTV, with the AC on, the power is severely limited. Going up a slight grade forget about it. Maybe 6mph. These adjustments seem to have helped.
Does anyone have the procedure to check the transmission pressures? There is a set screw where the HST lever is that is didn't mess with. I assume that turning it in increases pressure but I'm not sure pressure to what?
Thanks
aurthuritis
Well-known member
i am not sure you got the procedure correct. first thing is to make sure you have full travel of the foot peddle by adjusting the peddle stop. then and only then will all of the bell cranks work to their potential. when all is correct at max foot travel your speed lever should max out and the throttle lever on the fuel pump will be against the stop. if the control rods are connected during peddle adjustment you won't get it right. also it is important to note that the main bell crank is in the detente when the peddle is at rest.
Ok. I'll look for the shop manual.
I did remove the HST rod and the throttle cable before I checked the pedal movement. I adjusted the stop bolt under the pedal all the way down. The throttle pedal still moved the cross shaft because that is what it is connected to and over centered. It was not a hard stop.
With the pedal all the way down, I matched the HST rod to the full throw of the speed lever minus a bit. Then when the pedal was released, it would not go back to N position on the speed lever. I must have not been sitting in the detente.
I think I understand the concept.... With the throttle all the way down, ideally you want the throttle on the pump to be wide open AND you want the HST to be at full travel as well. Then when you let off the pedal, you want the HST to be in the N position or center or closed whatever you want to call it and the throttle on the pump to be at idle position.
I did remove the HST rod and the throttle cable before I checked the pedal movement. I adjusted the stop bolt under the pedal all the way down. The throttle pedal still moved the cross shaft because that is what it is connected to and over centered. It was not a hard stop.
With the pedal all the way down, I matched the HST rod to the full throw of the speed lever minus a bit. Then when the pedal was released, it would not go back to N position on the speed lever. I must have not been sitting in the detente.
I think I understand the concept.... With the throttle all the way down, ideally you want the throttle on the pump to be wide open AND you want the HST to be at full travel as well. Then when you let off the pedal, you want the HST to be in the N position or center or closed whatever you want to call it and the throttle on the pump to be at idle position.
Last edited:
Do a thread search on shop manuals, I posted mine from my 2017 rtvx1100c.
I found the link you posted and it does not work any longer. I'm going to buy one.
Last edited:
aurthuritis
Well-known member
Ok. I'll look for the shop manual.
I did remove the HST rod and the throttle cable before I checked the pedal movement. I adjusted the stop bolt under the pedal all the way down. The throttle pedal still moved the cross shaft because that is what it is connected to and over centered. It was not a hard stop.
With the pedal all the way down, I matched the HST rod to the full throw of the speed lever minus a bit. Then when the pedal was released, it would not go back to N position on the speed lever. I must have not been sitting in the detente.
I think I understand the concept.... With the throttle all the way down, ideally you want the throttle on the pump to be wide open AND you want the HST to be at full travel as well. Then when you let off the pedal, you want the HST to be in the N position or center or closed whatever you want to call it and the throttle on the pump to be at idle position.
it sounds like you need to adjust the throttle cable. it needs to be where you can get a full travel on the peddle from the top limit on the peddle. you need to set the bel crank to be centered in the divot when the peddle is at full retraction. not set the peddle to the bel crank. sorry i don't mean the throttle cable i mean the cable from the peddle to the bell crank. the HST cable
10-e-c-dirt
Active member
Not to hi-jack the thread, but had anyone checked the engine RPM, it is rated @ 3200 rpm, my X900 would only turn 3100 with one of those hand held LCD digital tack. I would think that would make a big difference in the performance of the transmission..
aurthuritis
Well-known member
Not to hi-jack the thread, but had anyone checked the engine RPM, it is rated @ 3200 rpm, my X900 would only turn 3100 with one of those hand held LCD digital tack. I would think that would make a big difference in the performance of the transmission..
Yes that is the first thing i checked except i used a caterpillar multi tach. my high idle was about 50 rpm over spec and i don't remember what the stall speed was but i didn't adjust it. there are folks running 3600 rpm and getting away with it but i don't need that much speed so i left it alone. if mine would have been as low as yours i would have adjusted it though.