Shifting Problems--RTV 900 w/60 hrs

[D&D Farm]

Here is the link to what is being talked about........</p>


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/atvs-utility-vehicles/154987-kubota-rtv-900-problems-2.html</p>


Post #11</p>


I came across this several days ago, maybe a week. I have made a concentrated effort of giving the brake pedal a bit more effort than normal. THIS METHOD WORKS. For me anyway. No, it still has a bit of a problem. But LOTS better. I need to go back to tractor by net and thank this fella a lot...........God Bless......Dennis</p>

 

[bordercollie]

Yea, I have always given the brake pedal several, usually about 3, hard pumps and/or turned the steering wheel sharply for a few seconds (hear the power steering whine) to help get out of gears when it was being stubborn. I've been doing this for years with no ill effects and still love the Kubota and... I am about at 3,000 hours. I learned to do this from having to quickly rock the steering wheel on the old 60's models 4020 diesel and propane tractors...... In order to get them to crank without wearing down the battery.This "relieved the pressure" so was said.. and it worked . You just can't beat old timey fixes--- thank goodness no computers on 'em or I would be up the creek without a paddle... until they do, I also have a big roll of duct tape for other problems. Bordercollie</p>

 

[Onfoot]

My experience is exactly the same--brake pedal and steering wheel sharply for a few seconds. A bit fiddly and a nuiscance to be sure, but one that I gladly live with given how well the 900 works over all. I have been cutting firewood in the woods the past couple of days at about 0F and lots of snow on the ground. The RTV just takes it all in stride.</p>

 

[muleman RIP]

Dang, I have to do the same thing with my old 401 JD. The later ones had a relief valve on the hydraulic pump. People look at you a little strange when you are whipping the steering wheel back and forth but it works!</p>

 

[steclark2380]

I've had the same experiences, especially in colder climates. Seems in cold conditions, it can take a little bit to get the hydraulics working properly.</p>

 

[Tact]

Mine is an adjustment issue. It shouldn't start while the shifter is in "H" range. </p>


I posted the the other thread yesterday. Thanks.</p>

 

[Kubota Kanook]

The shifting issue though descriptive of the overall problems encountered with the RTV in regards to the reluctance of the levers on the dash to co-operate with the operatorcan be several different problems.</p>


Difficulties getting the shifter to engage into a selected gear from neutral ,if not caused by linkage mis-adjustment, can usually be overcome by "blipping" the throttle pedal while applying pressure to the shifter. I would equate this to the necessity at times on a gear drive tractor to let the clutch slip while getting the tractor into gear to get thegears lined up. This is normal on a non syncromeshed gear box.</p>


Difficulties getting the shifter to disengage from a gear (range) into neutral is a result of torque being applied to the transmission from the hydro unit. This is the reason for the pressure relief "knob" or the brake pedal equivalent. If the RTV is stopped on an incline and particularly with a load in the box and this torque cannot be removed the shifter will be difficult if not impossible to get to shift into neutral without shutting down the engine. This has been my issue all along.</p>


</p>


With information supplied by a member of the other forum mentioned, I was able to determine that my unit was getting torque applied while at a stand still and with brake applied. This is referred to as creep.I was able to greatly minimize the creep that my RTV was experiencing and as a result improve the shifting problem I was having.</p>


Jack up the rear wheels and with shifter in H and full throttle, the wheels should NOT turn. If they do, you have creep and the link to the hydro needs adjusting.</p>


WITH ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO MATT on the tractorbynet forum</p>

 

[mstordahl]

Well aparantly I havecreated quite a stirr... Thats ok though. Glad to be joined and a new member though to your forum. Itake a lot of pride in my work andwant to assist in others problemshowever that I can.</p>


So on this post, obviously the problem is getting out of gear. Only two things that cancause this issue are hst neutral adjustment or the dumpvalve is not working or adjusted properly. Hst pressure is the cause for not shifting out of gear, other than internal binding in the transmission (which I have never seen) Idle speed, blipping the throttle, turning the steering wheel, and even the release knob are just a cover of the real problem to get the unit to shift. You shouldNOT have to do any of that on yourunit if it is set up correctly. I see a lot of people refering to turning the steering wheel to reduce the pressure and allow it to shift. What you are actually doing is moving the machine with the front wheels when you do this and that causes the pressure to be takin off the transmission, allowing you to shift. The power steering on an rtv has its own dedicated circit (pump, reservoir, lines and cylinder) and is in no way connected to the hst on the machine, so by turning the wheel you are not relieving the pressure in the hst. The older john deere tractors use the main pump on the front of the engine for the entire hydraulic system, which is a variable displacement pump, and causes direct load on the engine during startup, to turning the wheel on them is often the only way to start other than shutting the pump off. </p>


First you want to check that the hst is neutral when the machine is in gear. If you jack and block the machine in the air, put the trans in hi range and rev the engine to maximum by the throttle lever on the injection pump (not the foot pedal) the tires should not move at all. If they do, the hst neutral needs to be adjusted. I will post up some pictures of the rod that you need to adjust to do this. It is very sensitive, and will take a bit of fiddling, but when perfect it will fix the shifting issue.</p>


If the hst is set to neutral correctly, and the machine is shifted properly, there will not be any issue. I always tell customers, take your time, be patient. Most of the time just pause when you stop on a hill, step on the brake pedal firmly and hold it there for a 2 second count, then shift out of gear. It makes a big difference, just try it. This of course is still assuming that the hst is set to neutral properly. If there are any more questions or concerns, dont hesitate to ask me.</p>

 

[Kubota Kanook]

[quote user="mstordahl"] Only two things that cancause this issue are hst neutral adjustment or the dumpvalve is not working or adjusted properly.[/quote]</p>


Welcome to the forum...Where have you been all my shifting trouble life...It's so refreshing to get advice from someone who knows the RTV. Your advice is much appreciated. My unit still is reluctant to dis-engage (but it is far better than it was thanks to your advice). </p>


How can I verify my dump valve operation?</p>

 

[Johndeeremho]

I am new to the forum and am a VERY avid RTV person. To answer your question i will start with my experience. I have a 2005 RTV and a while back i was on a moderate incline and tryed to shift and it wasnt easy so i tried harder and broke a pin which made it shift. The Kubota dealer told me (after a very expensive fix) that if it is ever hard to shift to just turn it off and leave it for an hour and the hydrostatic pressue will decrease</p>

 

[TWO GUNS]

Johndeeremho,</p>


Welcome to the forum >>> </p>


There is much on here about the " hard to shift " subject !!!! </p>


Just don't belive you would have to let one sit for a hour, just turning off the engine is a big plus >>>></p>


</p>


......... two guns </p>