Rtvx1100c rear axle seal

[Wallgeye]

First post, hope to find some insight before I dive into this. Last winter I did a full filter and fluid service on my Rtv x1100c. Late this summer I noticed oil on the driveway. Appears to be dripping from right cv shaft at the rear differential. I have a service manual that doesn't mention seals at all. Parts book and owner manual. From the parts book the seal that I think is my bad one Appears to be a standard lip seal like what would be found on inner wheel seal of a car.

Has anyone replaced this seal? I am wondering if it as straightforward as I think. Remove cv axle, work seal out, tap in new seal, reassemble? Was going to replace cv axles while I was in there. 2k+ hours on this machine when I bought it. Service history is unknown. Reputable aftermarket axle brands?

YouTube is full of rtv 900 videos, next to nothing on the 1100 that I have found. How different are the models?

Thank you?

 

[Gotmyrtvmike]

First post, hope to find some insight before I dive into this. Last winter I did a full filter and fluid service on my Rtv x1100c. Late this summer I noticed oil on the driveway. Appears to be dripping from right cv shaft at the rear differential. I have a service manual that doesn't mention seals at all. Parts book and owner manual. From the parts book the seal that I think is my bad one Appears to be a standard lip seal like what would be found on inner wheel seal of a car.

Has anyone replaced this seal? I am wondering if it as straightforward as I think. Remove cv axle, work seal out, tap in new seal, reassemble? Was going to replace cv axles while I was in there. 2k+ hours on this machine when I bought it. Service history is unknown. Reputable aftermarket axle brands?

YouTube is full of rtv 900 videos, next to nothing on the 1100 that I have found. How different are the models?

Thank you?

Welcome walleye! I have a Rtv x1120d and I have used many Rtv X 900 videos. There are a lot of great minds hear that can help you out.

 

[Wallgeye]

Thank you, I have been looking for parts and clearing snow. No progress on the UTV yet.

I was going to replace everything, bearings and seals in the knuckles, cv axles, the seal at the transmission, anything I could see that might wear out or leak. Then I saw prices on those parts. YIKES!!! They get about 70 dollars for the inner knuckle bearing I think. 60 dollar seal, a 36 dollar seal. The one I need to replace is only 12 bucks. Instead of buying everything beforehand I am going to get it tore down first. Buy the parts I need.

I was shopping axles and was going cross-eyed. Demon sells a PAXL-31003HD axle that on several sites is compatible with the x900, x1100c and x1140. Demons site lists it for the 1140 only. I'm about as inexperienced as you can get with kubota's parts system, interchangeable parts. My service I did last year was painful. Nearest dealer is 25 miles away, I gave the parts department my serial number and model and had to return all but 2 parts I think? Didn't even get engine oil filter correct. Still got wrong parts second time after asking if she had entered my vehicle information correctly. Ultimately 5 trips to get the correct parts. Since then I have learned how to look up stuff at home but noticed difference from messicks and another dealer catalog. I even complained to kubota directly about the poor service at that dealer. Got a lot of don't care from them, lol.

Anyway, hope to start taking things apart next week. Fingers crossed.

 

[Gotmyrtvmike]

Thank you, I have been looking for parts and clearing snow. No progress on the UTV yet.

I was going to replace everything, bearings and seals in the knuckles, cv axles, the seal at the transmission, anything I could see that might wear out or leak. Then I saw prices on those parts. YIKES!!! They get about 70 dollars for the inner knuckle bearing I think. 60 dollar seal, a 36 dollar seal. The one I need to replace is only 12 bucks. Instead of buying everything beforehand I am going to get it tore down first. Buy the parts I need.

I was shopping axles and was going cross-eyed. Demon sells a PAXL-31003HD axle that on several sites is compatible with the x900, x1100c and x1140. Demons site lists it for the 1140 only. I'm about as inexperienced as you can get with kubota's parts system, interchangeable parts. My service I did last year was painful. Nearest dealer is 25 miles away, I gave the parts department my serial number and model and had to return all but 2 parts I think? Didn't even get engine oil filter correct. Still got wrong parts second time after asking if she had entered my vehicle information correctly. Ultimately 5 trips to get the correct parts. Since then I have learned how to look up stuff at home but noticed difference from messicks and another dealer catalog. I even complained to kubota directly about the poor service at that dealer. Got a lot of don't care from them, lol.

Anyway, hope to start taking things apart next week. Fingers crossed.

If you don’t have the WSM(service manual) for you Rtv you can find it online. I found one for mine that I keep on my computer and it was free. It will tell you filter sizes, how to tear down and put back together, etc…. I am in the same position as you, first time owner of a Rtv. I also use Massicks.com for looking at the schematic. It is easy to look at the parts and if you forget how they came apart it will show you how they go back together(done this many times. I will attach pictures to walk you through their site.
Hope this helps.

 

[tfdr1]

First post, hope to find some insight before I dive into this. Last winter I did a full filter and fluid service on my Rtv x1100c. Late this summer I noticed oil on the driveway. Appears to be dripping from right cv shaft at the rear differential. I have a service manual that doesn't mention seals at all. Parts book and owner manual. From the parts book the seal that I think is my bad one Appears to be a standard lip seal like what would be found on inner wheel seal of a car.

Has anyone replaced this seal? I am wondering if it as straightforward as I think. Remove cv axle, work seal out, tap in new seal, reassemble? Was going to replace cv axles while I was in there. 2k+ hours on this machine when I bought it. Service history is unknown. Reputable aftermarket axle brands?

YouTube is full of rtv 900 videos, next to nothing on the 1100 that I have found. How different are the models?

Thank you?

Just sent you a private message.

 

[Wallgeye]

Thank you for the replies!
I got the RTV up on jackstands and got the RR wheel off. It looks like lower control arm bushings are needed also. Once the wheel was off I pulled and tugged on the hub looking for play anywhere. I found some, lol. So, I got things cleaned up and look at things closer. I looked at the shop manual again and stopped. Back to Google and YouTube. Coil over questions.

I have a mechanical background. But, 99% is on my classic Cougars and Army trucks 30 years ago. I must confess, I have never worked on a suspension with struts or Coil over shocks. The energy in the spring I am aware of. The shop manual at a couple points mentions using a home built compressor based on prints in the book. At one point the book says to remove the shock jack up the driveshaft (?) and remove shock. I think there are translation errors in the book. After looking at atv/utv videos and forums (I cannot find anything on rtv x with the Coil spring) it seems the designs are similar between brands. With the wheels off the ground can I just remove the lower shock fasteners? I am trying to get the cv axle out to repair a leaky axle seal at the diff/transmission. Apologies if this is one of those things everyone knows. This is my first encounter with this suspension. Blizzard hitting next few days so snow removal will be first priority before I get back to the Kubota.

Thank you

 

[Gotmyrtvmike]

I

Thank you for the replies!
I got the RTV up on jackstands and got the RR wheel off. It looks like lower control arm bushings are needed also. Once the wheel was off I pulled and tugged on the hub looking for play anywhere. I found some, lol. So, I got things cleaned up and look at things closer. I looked at the shop manual again and stopped. Back to Google and YouTube. Coil over questions.

I have a mechanical background. But, 99% is on my classic Cougars and Army trucks 30 years ago. I must confess, I have never worked on a suspension with struts or Coil over shocks. The energy in the spring I am aware of. The shop manual at a couple points mentions using a home built compressor based on prints in the book. At one point the book says to remove the shock jack up the driveshaft (?) and remove shock. I think there are translation errors in the book. After looking at atv/utv videos and forums (I cannot find anything on rtv x with the Coil spring) it seems the designs are similar between brands. With the wheels off the ground can I just remove the lower shock fasteners? I am trying to get the cv axle out to repair a leaky axle seal at the diff/transmission. Apologies if this is one of those things everyone knows. This is my first encounter with this suspension. Blizzard hitting next few days so snow removal will be first priority before I get back to the Kubota.

Thank you

I have removed mine a few times. They should come as one unit. I did not have to do anything except remove bolt from lower arm and then from frame above. I hope I answered correctly.

 

[Wallgeye]

It took a couple weeks to get at the RTV project again. I guess I was worried about nothing with the shock. After raising the bed I removed the upper shock mount bolt. I pulled the shock up with a prybar under the lower mount and was able to remove the bolt. Shock out!

It took me a while to find purchase on the control arm bolts. I need to buy some 1/2 in. drive metric short sockets! Dunno if the nuts where torqued a lot or the locks were just tight. I couldn't get enough leverage with a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar. Using 3/8 to 1/2 adapter just made it impossible to get on the nut and have room to move it. I ended up taking a combination wrench with box end on nut and using the box end of a larger wrench over the open end of the wrench and was able to break them free.

My local dealer had about half of the parts I wanted. I have an order I. With Messicks for the rest. I will try to post pictures, the metal sleeves that ride in the control arm bushings are junk as far as I'm concerned. Pretty significant wear on them. The pins holding the knuckle on are getting replaced also, with bushings.

Anyone attempting to replace the seal on the rear differential down the road. Advice, drain transmission first! I don't think I'm the first one in there. Some of the webbing in the casting has been ground down, possibly to get a tool in to get the seal out. I went in with a small prybar and screwdriver. I got lucky and saw movement pretty quickly. I took my time working whatever tool would get purchase under the seal and worked it out. That's when the differential relieved itself of the fluid inside! Lost about 4qts so far. There is a stub shaft that stays inside the differential that the seal actually rides on. I took my new seal and tried it against the new cv axle and it wasn't even close to sealing! CV shaft rides inside that stub shaft. I am a bit concerned, the end of that shaft has some rust on it. Hopefully the seal lip ends up under the rust.

The knuckle was interesting, shop manual make it seem the hub pulls right out. Mine wouldn't budge. I grabbed my new slide hammer and the harmonic damper attachment fit across the two studs perfectly. It took several hits but it did come off. It seems more press fit. There is some discoloration on ID of the bearing so maybe it go hoy. New bearings and seals on order. These are the 68 dollar seals Kubota is real proud of. After picking up these seal from dealer I stumbled across a kit with seals and bearing from "All Balls Racing" for under 40 for everything! I'll give it a try and return the factory seals if the aftermarket parts work.

OK, let's see if I can post photos..... looks like I can! I need a internal snap ring pliers larger than I have to get the bearing removed from the knuckle Plier set and seal driver set on order. I will keep cleaning the oil soaked mud from under the transmission until parts and tools arrive.

Thank you everyone for the assistance!

 

[Keysam]

It took a couple weeks to get at the RTV project again. I guess I was worried about nothing with the shock. After raising the bed I removed the upper shock mount bolt. I pulled the shock up with a prybar under the lower mount and was able to remove the bolt. Shock out!

It took me a while to find purchase on the control arm bolts. I need to buy some 1/2 in. drive metric short sockets! Dunno if the nuts where torqued a lot or the locks were just tight. I couldn't get enough leverage with a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar. Using 3/8 to 1/2 adapter just made it impossible to get on the nut and have room to move it. I ended up taking a combination wrench with box end on nut and using the box end of a larger wrench over the open end of the wrench and was able to break them free.

My local dealer had about half of the parts I wanted. I have an order I. With Messicks for the rest. I will try to post pictures, the metal sleeves that ride in the control arm bushings are junk as far as I'm concerned. Pretty significant wear on them. The pins holding the knuckle on are getting replaced also, with bushings.

Anyone attempting to replace the seal on the rear differential down the road. Advice, drain transmission first! I don't think I'm the first one in there. Some of the webbing in the casting has been ground down, possibly to get a tool in to get the seal out. I went in with a small prybar and screwdriver. I got lucky and saw movement pretty quickly. I took my time working whatever tool would get purchase under the seal and worked it out. That's when the differential relieved itself of the fluid inside! Lost about 4qts so far. There is a stub shaft that stays inside the differential that the seal actually rides on. I took my new seal and tried it against the new cv axle and it wasn't even close to sealing! CV shaft rides inside that stub shaft. I am a bit concerned, the end of that shaft has some rust on it. Hopefully the seal lip ends up under the rust.

The knuckle was interesting, shop manual make it seem the hub pulls right out. Mine wouldn't budge. I grabbed my new slide hammer and the harmonic damper attachment fit across the two studs perfectly. It took several hits but it did come off. It seems more press fit. There is some discoloration on ID of the bearing so maybe it go hoy. New bearings and seals on order. These are the 68 dollar seals Kubota is real proud of. After picking up these seal from dealer I stumbled across a kit with seals and bearing from "All Balls Racing" for under 40 for everything! I'll give it a try and return the factory seals if the aftermarket parts work.

OK, let's see if I can post photos..... looks like I can! I need a internal snap ring pliers larger than I have to get the bearing removed from the knuckle Plier set and seal driver set on order. I will keep cleaning the oil soaked mud from under the transmission until parts and tools arrive.

Thank you everyone for the assistance!
View attachment 14456View attachment 14457

When you pulled the axle assembly from the transmission to get to the seal did it (outer CV joint/axle) slide right out. I’m replacing my axle on an X900 and have tried light prying with no success. Unfortunately the axle has separated at the inner CV joint leaving the outer half in the case. I would pry harder but in the parts diagram they show an outer snap ring that makes me wonder if I might need to do more disassembling.

 

[Susannamac]

First post, hope to find some insight before I dive into this. Last winter I did a full filter and fluid service on my Rtv x1100c. Late this summer I noticed oil on the driveway. Appears to be dripping from right cv shaft at the rear differential. I have a service manual that doesn't mention seals at all. Parts book and owner manual. From the parts book the seal that I think is my bad one Appears to be a standard lip seal like what would be found on inner wheel seal of a car.

Has anyone replaced this seal? I am wondering if it as straightforward as I think. Remove cv axle, work seal out, tap in new seal, reassemble? Was going to replace cv axles while I was in there. 2k+ hours on this machine when I bought it. Service history is unknown. Reputable aftermarket axle brands?

YouTube is full of rtv 900 videos, next to nothing on the 1100 that I have found. How different are the models?

Thank you?

What year is your RTV? We are deciding whether to purchase the 2024 Kubota RTV X1100C with K-Connect but am worried about the issues you mention down the road.

 

[Junkman]

What year is your RTV? We are deciding whether to purchase the 2024 Kubota RTV X1100C with K-Connect but am worried about the issues you mention down the road.

The new Kubota RTV comes with a 2-year bumper-to-bumper warranty and a 5-year warranty on the driveline. If you finance it through Kubotas dealer financing (Known as KTAC) it will also have insurance for damage, fire, and theft. It is a good deal, especially if you have little experience driving one of these machines. Inexperience can lead to a collision or rollover, and you want to have that insurance to protect your investment. Even experienced operators have been known to have accidents. Most homeowner insurance will not cover the RTV except for possible liability. Check with your insurance agent.

 

[Susannamac]

The new Kubota RTV comes with a 2-year bumper-to-bumper warranty and a 5-year warranty on the driveline. If you finance it through Kubotas dealer financing (Known as KTAC) it will also have insurance for damage, fire, and theft. It is a good deal, especially if you have little experience driving one of these machines. Inexperience can lead to a collision or rollover, and you want to have that insurance to protect your investment. Even experienced operators have been known to have accidents. Most homeowner insurance will not cover the RTV except for possible liability. Check with your insurance agent.

We were planning to pay cash. Is the insurance still available?

 

[Junkman]

It took a couple weeks to get at the RTV project again. I guess I was worried about nothing with the shock. After raising the bed I removed the upper shock mount bolt. I pulled the shock up with a prybar under the lower mount and was able to remove the bolt. Shock out!

It took me a while to find purchase on the control arm bolts. I need to buy some 1/2 in. drive metric short sockets! Dunno if the nuts where torqued a lot or the locks were just tight. I couldn't get enough leverage with a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar. Using 3/8 to 1/2 adapter just made it impossible to get on the nut and have room to move it. I ended up taking a combination wrench with box end on nut and using the box end of a larger wrench over the open end of the wrench and was able to break them free.

My local dealer had about half of the parts I wanted. I have an order I. With Messicks for the rest. I will try to post pictures, the metal sleeves that ride in the control arm bushings are junk as far as I'm concerned. Pretty significant wear on them. The pins holding the knuckle on are getting replaced also, with bushings.

Anyone attempting to replace the seal on the rear differential down the road. Advice, drain transmission first! I don't think I'm the first one in there. Some of the webbing in the casting has been ground down, possibly to get a tool in to get the seal out. I went in with a small prybar and screwdriver. I got lucky and saw movement pretty quickly. I took my time working whatever tool would get purchase under the seal and worked it out. That's when the differential relieved itself of the fluid inside! Lost about 4qts so far. There is a stub shaft that stays inside the differential that the seal actually rides on. I took my new seal and tried it against the new cv axle and it wasn't even close to sealing! CV shaft rides inside that stub shaft. I am a bit concerned, the end of that shaft has some rust on it. Hopefully the seal lip ends up under the rust.

The knuckle was interesting, shop manual make it seem the hub pulls right out. Mine wouldn't budge. I grabbed my new slide hammer and the harmonic damper attachment fit across the two studs perfectly. It took several hits but it did come off. It seems more press fit. There is some discoloration on ID of the bearing so maybe it go hoy. New bearings and seals on order. These are the 68 dollar seals Kubota is real proud of. After picking up these seal from dealer I stumbled across a kit with seals and bearing from "All Balls Racing" for under 40 for everything! I'll give it a try and return the factory seals if the aftermarket parts work.

OK, let's see if I can post photos..... looks like I can! I need a internal snap ring pliers larger than I have to get the bearing removed from the knuckle Plier set and seal driver set on order. I will keep cleaning the oil soaked mud from under the transmission until parts and tools arrive.

Thank you everyone for the assistance!

If you are concerned about the rust on the end of the shaft I would clean it with a Scotch Brite pad. I purchase them at an auto body supply store inexpensively and they come in 2 or 3 different grits. Once it is cleaned if it still appears that it will damage the new seal, you could install a "ready sleeve" onto the shaft that will protect the new seal from getting torn up. I have used them on harmonic balancers and the seal has worn a groove in the metal. They are available at most auto parts stores. You will need to bring the part with you for them to mic it for a proper fit. When I need seals I head to the local bearing warehouse, and they can usually match it to a commonly available seal inexpensively. When doing repairs, sometimes you have to use more than one source to find all the necessary parts for a successful and inexpensive repair. The Kubota dealer is my last resort if I can't find it from other vendors, or if the part is so inexpensive that it isn't worth while to shop around.

 

[Junkman]

We were planning to pay cash. Is the insurance still available?

The KTAC insurance is only available when the purchase is financed through the Kubota dealer.