RTV_X1100C Mirrors
- Thread starter ItBmine
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Westfield
Active member
Yes but if somebody uses their mind any problem can be solved. I just modified my mirrors. The whole problem is those little screws. This is what I did I use 4 thick washers and 2 - 8X32 socket head cap screws. When tightening the washers they push against the plastic housing. Evenly Distributing the pressure which makes a tighter socket. Problem solved mine is as tight as I want it to be.
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I like it. Thanks for the tip.
geohorn
Well-known member
Do these mirrors work on cab models??
No. 1.75-2" roll bar only
geohorn
Well-known member
Right…. I didn’t think about Cab-owners. Here’s how/where they’re mounted on my roll-cage:
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Westfield
Active member
I finished modifying the other mirror with the larger screws. Now when my wife bumps into the mirror with her shoulder it does not move. If you do this modification you must use thick hardened washers. If you are one that complains about the mirrors like I did do this modification and you will have no more problems. This only works if you use Helibars mirror extensions. This keeps the mirror in the center of the socket for much better holding power.
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I have added 1/4" screws with washers and my mirrors are now "rock solid". I do not have your suggestion of Helibars on my mirrors. I do not understand how helibars add anything to the mirrors function except lowering them. You selling helibars?
Westfield
Active member
Well that's awful nice for me to show you how to fix your mirrors and question me on something like that, I hope you are kidding.
No I am not affiliated with them in any way. What that little piece of Steel does is keep the mirror ball centered in the pocket instead of cocked all the way over with the ball about the pop out of the socket. It has much better holding power. Long story short if you don't want to buy it don't get it problem solved.
It is my friend Harry, at Helibars that sells those extenders, not Westfield. And I am not affiliated either. I met Harry when he was developing risers for the 2nd gen yamaha fjr. But it looks to me like a combination of "The Westfield Mod" (see post 22) and Harry's Helibar extender, solves all of our current mirror problems for the most part!
You have shown Me nothing regarding the mirror fix. Lighten up You are too thin skinned. No big deal.
Westfield
Active member
Show us a pic of your mirror modification. I don't believe you even did the modification I think you are a troll just looking for trouble. First of all 1/4" screws are to big they would break through the ball socket. Also washers made for 1/4" screws would be too big they would not fit flat against the mirror molding. And yes I have not shown you anything or they would have been done right.
So go away and quit wasting my time!
Ok thin skinned Boy. I am going nowhere. I stand My ground, I repeat: 1/4" screws with lock washers. The most durable way to go. As far as the Helibars, there is a better way (no cost) to go to lower the mirrors.
Westfield
Active member
So let's see some pics. And I am not a boy I am a 65 year old retired mechanical engineer/ machine designer so you can't hold a candle to me boy. This is the last time I'm going to try to help somebody out with a problem because of an ass like you.
I am done with this conversation now so go bother somebody else.
I already bought the Helibars, but am curious how you lowered them and fixed the wobbly socket.
OK Westfield, maby carried away , a bit, with the T.S.B. comment. We have more in common than I first thought. I am also a retired Die maker, Machine & Die Designer, Graduate Mechanical Engineer, Release Engineer/Program Manager. I seriously doubt the Candle comment as I have been around the block many times. Aint no boys here.
OK this may take a while. Fixing the wobbly socket. First off use inch and a quarter long, 1/4" screws with a lock washer on only the nut end. This will make the mirrors very secure. As far as lowering the mirrors, (you need to be adventurous here) . Add (pack tight) with dry sand in the inside of the thin walled tube this will keep it from collapsing while bending. Insert a 6mm screw in threaded hole to keep sand from falling out. Need a good vise to hold the tube while heating to a cherry red. Once tube is red ,you can easily bend tube appx 30 degrees from the (perpendicular pivot tube) using a pipe wrench. You can also add a slight twist to the tube to add more drop. I achieved appx. 2.50" drop. More than enough to lower the mirrors. Took 3 hours to do. Also remove the 2 plastic caps at each end of the pivot tube, prior to heating. Works great.