oliver1755
New member
I am looking to trade in my RTV 900 that is three years old. Does anyone know what the difference between a RTV900XT and a RTV900XTS? Does the S package cost less than setting up a general purpose with the same options?
RTV900XTS
- Thread starter oliver1755
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Hi Oliver1755. I have the 2011 S package and it also adds chrome wheels, spray in bed liner to the WS model. The price depends on how good a deal you get. With a plastic roof and one year ago, I paid 12,700 for the S. A regular XT was $700 less than the S for me. I figured the price for the chrome rims from an online seller,- around 300-400 and then the spray in bedliner. The Kubota rims have a high sticker price when bought from the dealer separately . It depends on what you want but it was good for me to get the package deal all done and the resell will be good with the chrome wheels- it will add to the eye appeal. If you go to the Kubota RTV site , You can "build your own" and see what the complete differences are. Good Luck, bordercollie
Oliver1755,
I would expect that you would save money by ordering the "S" model vise piece-parting; however, the dealer can best answer your question. Bordercollie has a 2011 900 XT-s, so she might be able to shed some light on the subject.
I checked kubota.com for pricing the various options. I only found the S option that includes the speedo, alloy wheels, brush guard, spray-in bedliner, and hydraulic dump. I did not locate the spray-in bedliner option alone.
I don't know the quality of the Kubota spray-in bedliner, although I expect it would be pricey. You may be better served to get the spray-in bedliner by another company after you receive the new rig.
Good Luck!
I would expect that you would save money by ordering the "S" model vise piece-parting; however, the dealer can best answer your question. Bordercollie has a 2011 900 XT-s, so she might be able to shed some light on the subject.
I checked kubota.com for pricing the various options. I only found the S option that includes the speedo, alloy wheels, brush guard, spray-in bedliner, and hydraulic dump. I did not locate the spray-in bedliner option alone.
I don't know the quality of the Kubota spray-in bedliner, although I expect it would be pricey. You may be better served to get the spray-in bedliner by another company after you receive the new rig.
Good Luck!
oliver1755
New member
Are the crome rims a pain when it comes to scratching them during general farm work. We work grain farm in Indiana. Picking rocks. Spot spraying. Hauling seed. About everything. Our old one is getting 400 hrs a year. So we use it about everyday. Just don't worry about them and use it? I patch my own tires so will the tire machine scratch then up? I'm very comfortable with everything else but the wheels. You are right with the spray on liner. It is very pricy at rhino linings here in town. I was going to have the old one done and they wanted 300 bucks. Is it a pretty good lining? Does it keep the bed from raddling? Is the XT any better from experience than the old ones? Thanks
Hey Oliver, It is a different animal! I climb levees in H. It does good for me here on the cattle farm and I put 600 hrs a year roughly on mine. I can put heavy things from a dead stop in H too but I use M or L just to not abuse it.. It has an additional transmission cooler under the seat which will clog up with grass fast . The fan that is mounted to the engine pulls the grass into it if you are in a field of hay etc. It has a simple finned deflector under the water radiator to help divert seed and grass there and it really helps . I wish they had put one under the trans cooler. I may build one someday and put it in there. Otherwise it looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I am hard on the liner with wire and posts but try to be careful and take care of it because that is the way I am. I put a piece of plywood on the floor so I could mount my tool box to it without drilling holes in the bed. It works good for that and doesn't slide out when I raise the bed because I cut it to fit in the notches.
The tires rims are nice and eye catching for resale but if you don't care, you might could get the dealer to knock off money and get the steel ones. I had a set changed on my old RTV and the tire people did dent one of them.. The new type driveshaft is much quieter on all of the new models. It is one long piece instead of 2 and does away with the carrier bearing in the middle. It has rubber boots on each end joint there. Also the rear ujonts are greasable. . Bordercollie
I am hard on the liner with wire and posts but try to be careful and take care of it because that is the way I am. I put a piece of plywood on the floor so I could mount my tool box to it without drilling holes in the bed. It works good for that and doesn't slide out when I raise the bed because I cut it to fit in the notches.
The tires rims are nice and eye catching for resale but if you don't care, you might could get the dealer to knock off money and get the steel ones. I had a set changed on my old RTV and the tire people did dent one of them.. The new type driveshaft is much quieter on all of the new models. It is one long piece instead of 2 and does away with the carrier bearing in the middle. It has rubber boots on each end joint there. Also the rear ujonts are greasable. . Bordercollie
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oliver1755
New member
Thank you. That's the stuff I need to know. Is there some way to know the temp of the transmission so you know if this new cooler is getting plugged. An idiot light or something? The reason I ask is that during soybean harvest there is a lot of fine dust or hair that is on the beans. After you harvest the combine chopper chops the bean residue real fine. When ever we drive the kubota much in the fields after harvest the radiator plugs up with fine dust. The temp goes up fast and I know to blow it out. Wonder if extra radiator would do the same? I have always thought that the aluminum in the radiator had a small charge to it that makes that dust stick so fine. Fills the fins up. Just wondering. I do pull the soybean head on the trailer behind the rtv now and it does great to move from field to field. Thank you for all the practical knowledge and experience. One thing that I hope they have changed is that the key is right where my knee hits it and I am afraid I will break it off someday when I get out of the seat. But now I am getting to picky!
Hi Oliver, Unfortunately, the key is in the same place and so is the horn button. It does have a 2 " receiver now though. That new oem cooler is in a bad place for sucking up anything close and it does NOT have a screen to help keep it clean like the radiator does. It can be a pain. I did add a hydraulic cooler to mine so I could use the hyd without overheating and it works great. I have a thread something like "cooler added" on here recently. The way the factory cooler is right there under the seat and near the fuel tank makes it hard to add a removeable screen but it sure needs one. I have one of the temperature guns I used when testing my hydraulic get up and it really helped just having the extra surface area for the fluid. It has never gotten hot enough with that for the fan to come on. I would think they will need to improve this oem cooler in the next model over mine because 1 it is a sitting duck for a stick. 2 . it fills with trash quickly and I am sure there is a number 3 but I will think of it tomorrow.
Good Luck and I will try to post a few pictures tomorrow. bordercollieoliver1755
New member
Thank you. It sounds like the air hose with the long gun will still come in handy.
I hear you on the key location! Mine has accounted for over half the hours on mine after being hit and moving to the on position while sitting in the shed. Killed the battery the one time.
Heatwave
Active member
I hear you on the key location! Mine has accounted for over half the hours on mine after being hit and moving to the on position while sitting in the shed. Killed the battery the one time.
Been there ... done that. Repeatedly. It's inevitable: if I leave the key in the ignition, I (or someone else) will bump it to the ON position and drain the battery.
I long ago attached the Kubota key to a key-chain loop (got it at Ace Hardware ... hanging on a rack at a check-out station). Every time I shut down the RTV, I pull the key out and hang it on the 2WD-4WD shift lever. I make it a deliberate mental check to verify, confirm ... by sight, by touch, and by mumbling aloud to myself "Key Secure" ... that the key is hanging on the shift lever every time I shut down.
Kubota would do its customers a good deed by relocating the ignition switch to the top of the dashboard.
oliver1755
New member
Well had the dealer price out an XTS and it came in 900 dollars more than the XT worksite model. The alloy wheels are expensive and kubotas bed lining is too. So I talked him into a rhino lining bedliner done local and a black plastic roof on it for the same price. Also he is giving me 250 more for trade in and there is 0% financing on trade amount. I thought it was a good deal for me. The dealer is 4 miles away and are good people so I went with it. He said to keep using the old one until new one is done and shows up.
That sounds great Oliver. Enjoy that new machine. I will mention that the rear ujoints are much easier to grease when the rear is jacked up so the wheels can be turned as needed to reach the fittings. As we get older, it is nice not having to get up and down so much. 
Congratulations again. 
bordercollie edit: Here is that picture of the cooler under the seat that I said I'd post. It shows a catch of the tall dry grass I drove through this week. Just keep an eye on it.
Congratulations again. bordercollie edit: Here is that picture of the cooler under the seat that I said I'd post. It shows a catch of the tall dry grass I drove through this week. Just keep an eye on it.Attachments
oliver1755
New member
I see. It looks like they just dropped another radiator in front of the engine fan to keep extra air running through it. I bet you can lift the bed and still get to it to blow it out if you need to. Looks like you will need too! I hope this new one is as good as the old one. I changed engine oil and filter every 50 hours and the hytran fluid every year. Greased it each time and ran it with no problems. Real good on fuel!
Hey bordercollie,
MIght want to get a piece of screen or something of that nature, and put in front, to help keep debris
out of flumes. Or, Make you a little wooden frame removable screen ?
Just a thought >>>>
It is a real tight fit. In order to remove a full sized screen from the side the trash is pulled into, the hole below the seat would need to be bigger. I may make a half size to fit theremaybe check into a folding one of some sort... I already have the fine mesh hardware cloth wire.What I really want to do is make a bottom expanded metal piece or a piece like under the engine radiator to deflect sticks as well as protect all of that from incoming threats. That is my goal if I get some free time . Until then, I have a good blower that has an extendable arm and goes about 18 inches whit a good tip on the end. I have also made custom lengths before out of tubing - using the handle mechanism off of old blowers. They work real well because you can bend the tubing to work with certain equipment- like getting up in a combine. ( I had to bend some heavy stainless tubing for making a new runner for the gas grill so I taught myself a thing or two about bending that stiff stuff. Tip: (Never buy a gas grill with a lifetime warranty-if they go out of business- it doesn't mean much and you will be stuck with a gas grill with no parts available)...... bordercollie
