RTV900 Windshield opinions and suggestions.

This is going to be good !!! I want to hear & see the results on this ~~~~~~</P>


ADVISE : Stay away from the torch, you are fixin to mess up a good sheet of lexan >>></P>


Maybe a Professional Heat Gun >>>>> Keep us imformed on this ~~~</P>


In the Professional Business' they use what they call " Heat Bars" .....</P>
 
Don't know how he done his, but his did come outnice !!!~~~~~ We shape Lexan here at our sign shop for applications on different sign installations & faces. One secret is, when you heat up the substrate,pull the WHOLE end that is being tuned in EQUALLY !!! If not, you will end up warping / and or making your breaking line really crooked & uneven .....Also,DON'T just heat up one end at a time and then move to the other side, it will not come out right. Heat up the whole breaking point at once and keep the heat at a equal temp all away across. That why we use a heat bar for doing this, it heats equal, all the way across the substrate. Don't get it to to hot either, for it will "frost & haze" the clear out . Sure hope this helps. I would have used the Lexan method myself, but figured my personaltime,. hardware & trouble of doing this, and the price of the G.E. Lexan, and knowing that in time, it will get some scratches or mared somehow. I could have purchased a OEM Kubota Glass Windshield and never have to worry about anything. And, also figured if I could afford to pay what I did for my RTV, I could afford to get a original Kubota Windshield that fits perfect... Wasn't but $500.00 ~~~ The OEM windshield is a big plus for our unit, it's sealed good & kicks out for vent when needed ~~~~~~~</P>
 
thanks for the info two guns, i have been pricing "lexan" - polycarbonate I don't know if there is a difference between brands of polcarbonates but i have gotten several prices, as low as 130.00 for a full 4X8 sheet of 1/4 inch thick. it seems reasonable enough, i can make a front and rear windshield from 1 sheet. I will probably only use it when plowing snow so it should'nt get too scratched . i'll stop at a sign shop by my house and see if maybe he can bend it for me. i also have found at a supply house called McMaster Carr a flexible hinge which glues on, maybe an option since it would be nice to have the windshield fold down or it might just be easier to put the hinge in instead of bending it. i understand you can cut this stuff pretty easily with a fine tooth blade, do you have any idea of about how small of a radius you could cut with a jig/sabre saw? i would like to cut it to fit in the spot between the cowl and the roll cage at the bottom of the windshield if possible. THANKS, jdh1
 
<FONT color=#000000><FONT face=Verdana>LEXAN is a registered trademark for </FONT></FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000>General Electric's</FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000> brand of highly durable </FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000>polycarbonate</FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000> </FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000>resin</FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000> </FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000>thermoplastic</FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000> intended to replaceglass</FONT><FONT face=Verdana color=#000000> where the need for strength, justifies its higher cost ! The cost of real Lexan is really high >>>>></FONT></P>


<FONT face=Verdana>There are several brands </FONT><FONT face=Verdana>Polycarbonates, BE SURE YOU GET TRUE LEXAN , don't let anyone throw off on you some other plexi-glass,or Acrylic sheets, that they call lexan, and it is not !For it will not work as true as the True GE Lexan.Other polys will scratch,glaze, yellow, crack,& bustin no time at all. That why atmy sign shop, weuse only Lexan. It will be there !!!!! Our reputationof quality is what we stand on.For this is something Ido know, or I wouldn't be in the business for as long as I have >>>>>Be sure you SEE the GE Lexan wording on the protective plastic that covers the sheet before it is cut or installed. Therearemany folks that go different placesand ask for Lexan, and don't know what they are looking for, they think it's just a some style of plexi-glass or acrylic sheet, but it is not ,and just get some sort of crap thrown on them, for they don't know any better !!!!!thought I'd just say that .</FONT></P>


<FONT face=Verdana>The way to cut Lexan is with a Lexan/ acrylic/ plexi-glass cutter. I would adviseyou to golet you glass shop or some sign shop cut it for you. If you don't know what you are doing, you will "bust" the sheet. I would advise NOT to do the "fine tooth" blade thing. You might run into problems like melting, cracking, busting, seizing with the jig saw.</P>
<DIV>An abrasion-resistant grade is also available which provides additional protection against
everyday abuse and frequent cleanings. </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></DIV>


</FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></P>
 
thanks , two guns, i guess i'll do some more research on this so called lexan before i make a decision as to which direction i'll go. i've looked into the hinge option some more and i think it might be what i would like. they make them out of several different materials, pvc, polypropylene , acrylic, and petg.The acrylic has a temp. range of - 40f to +150f which should work. They are a continuous hinge which can be glued,screwed, or bolted on. They also make one that has a channel to slide the windshield into on each side. Is this cutter you spoke of a hand held device or a blade for a power tool? I questioned whether the material i priced was polycarbonate or acrylic and i was assured it was polycarbonate although the brand was not dicussed. Do you have a ballpark figure on the cost of a 4 x 8 x 1/4 sheet of GE poly? thanks again for your help, jdh1
 
cutteris a hand held device ~~~~ </P>


As far as the GE Lexan ~~~~ Ipurchase mine inbig bulks, and at bulk wholesale prices, so I don't know what the retail price is at this moment. But I will try to post it later. I do know thatplexi-glass, polysand acrylics is cheaper than GE Lexan. </P>


Just do what you feel comfortable with, I feel like you will make the right decision !!!!!!!</P>
 
As noted, be careful what you're getting when people are trying to sell you Lexan.

The Lexan I have has something called "MarGuard" (or maybe they call it MR-10 now). This is the type I'd recommend if you're going with a Lexan windshield. Anything else (I've seen or heard of) is going to scratch and yellow. Unfortunately, a sheet of this stuff is now over $300 if I recall correctly.

If I was to do it again, it would be a hard decision but I think I'd strongly consider get the OEM glass instead of Lexan (or anything else). The Lexan "used" to be a big savings over the OEM glass but the materials have sky-rocketed in price.
 
Thanks bczoom, i'm going to check out exactly what these people are trying to sell me and then decide which way to go. I'll try to post some pics if I do make my own windshield. jdh1
 
Abrasion-resistant grade, GE LEXAN is going to run you in the neighborhood of 345.00 to 385.00 for a sheet of 4ft. X 8ft. ~~~~~~ IT IS HIGH , That's why I said I went to the OEM Kubota Windshield, for even at my wholesale cost, the price was still really high !!!!!!</P>
 
at that price it would pay to buy the kubota glass, thinking about it, i still want to see what these other people are trying to sell me as lexan, i know it can't be marguard. thanks, jdh1
 
I would just like to know the exact words they throw at you thinking you don't know what "REAL LEXAN" is. And what they are trying to pawn off on you ~~~~~~
 
[quote user="bczoom"]I don't have glass. I have Lexan.
Based on the current price of Lexan, a glass windshield is pretty close although still slightly higher in price.
The Lexan is nice and offers me a lot of flexibility (like taking it off in a matter of minutes, and it works with the hood rack). The glass has the benefit of being more durable and wipers can be used.

If I had to do it again.... hmmmm. I honestly don't know which way I would go.

Here's a (poor) pic of mine now. You can see where I have a channel across the middle of the windshield area so I can use the Lexan. This is where the seam is to compensate for the contour of the ROPS. The hood rack mounts pretty much perfectly to my windshield clamps.
[/quote]</P>


</P>


BC</P>


Your windshield setup is exactly what I think Iam looking for. I need something to keep the bugs out of our 15 month olds face when driving around. Where did you get it or how can I make one? </P>
 
Doug,

I made mine. As noted in my previous thread, the Lexan material I used has gotten pretty pricy and the cost is making it almost what you pay for a glass one.

I just went out and took a bunch of pics of how I made it (measurements, hardware...).
Unfortunately, due to a storm this morning that knocked out our power (while the computer was on), I've seemed to have lost all USB connected devices so I can't unload my pics from the camera.

Give me a bit of time to get my computer working correctly then I'll start posting pics.
Also, please send me a PM with your e-mail address. I'll post some pics here that give the general idea but may e-mail more to you so you get better details.

In the mean time, start doing internet searches for Lexan with Marguard
and check e-bay for "O-Clamps" (for DJ lighting). Mine is mounted with 8 of them.

Brian
 
OK, this will save me some typing.

Below is a couple e-mails I found that have a description of how I built my windshield.

The main thing is the price of the Lexan. As noted, I paid about $150, cut and delivered. I haven't looked lately but it's more expensive now.

Pics to match these text descriptions coming, once I can unload from the camera.

******************************************************************
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">The top 1/2, bottom 1/2 or whole
thing can be removed in about 3 minutes. Honestly, I leave mine on all year.
Bugs in summer, wind in winter. I also feel it's safer with my 2 little
kids.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>

<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">The clamps are 2" O-Clamps used to
mount lights for a stage/DJ System. Do a search for "O-Clamp" on e-bay to get
some close-up pictures. They'requick connectto remove the
windshield.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>

<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">The windshield material is 3/16"
lexan with mar-guard. Kind of pricy stuff (it was $150 for the 2 sheets cut to
size and shipped). I would recommend the mar-guard. Guaranteed not to scratch
or fade/yellow for 10 years.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>

<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">Through the middle is a piece of
H-channel that I picked up from a local place that makes windows. It's purpose
is to keep the 2 sheets together without flopping
around.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>

<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">There is "U" channel on the very top
and bottom, also for rigidity.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>

<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">Inside all the channels is rubber U
channel as well. Unfortunately, I had to cut the U into more of a J (basically
rip it down the middle of the U) since the 3/16" plus the rubber won't fit in
1/4" channel. This rubber is to stop any small vibrations or
otherwise.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>**************************************************************************
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">I can't find the place that cut my
lexan. I did a google search for lexan and I think it wasa hardware store in
<st1:State w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Virginia</st1:place></st1:State>. If
using the internet, call a few places. Prices were all over the board. If
you're going to get a single piece and bend (instead of doing a split like I
did), be careful. I've heard mixed info on bending lexan. Not sure if it
affects the mar-guard coating as well. The size of a single piece may dictate
freight/drop-ship instead of UPS as well.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>

<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">They did cut the lexan but didn't
polish the edges. I was going to order some trim for the perimeter but haven't
gotten around to it. www.austinhardware
has a lot of trim (and lots of other specialty stuff and is where I'll get it.
If you go there, order the catalog. It has a lot more than what's listed on
their site.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p></div>
 
OK, a re-boot fixed my USB connected devices so I was able to offload from the camera.

First, these are close-up pics. Pardon the dirt but I've been hauling fill and topsoil for the past week.

The picture posted previously in this thread provides an idea of the end product.

Here's some pics going through the construction. <u>Each post will contain a subset/pertinent item about a part of the windshield. The last post will contain the steps for assembly.</u>

First picture (mounting the lexan to the ROPS):

This is the upper passenger side. Wrapped around the ROPS is 1 (of a
total of 8) 2" O-Clamps. These are for a DJ lighting system but fit
perfectly. They're also quick-disconnect. Available on e-bay for about $17/4-pack. These have a quick-disconnect for around the ROPS and have a 3/8" bolt with wingnut that goes through a drilled hole in the windshield.

Where the windshield material is bolted to the o-clamp (at all 8 connection points):

I put a rubber washer between the O-clamp and the lexan. (aka. Fender Washer) It's 1 1/4" diameter.

Between the wingnut and the lexan, I put on a washer that's rubber on one side (the side touching the lexan) and metal on the other side (against the wing nut). These are called Bonded Sealing Washers

By having rubber washers touching the lexan, it avoids scratching, vibration and the wingnuts coming loose.

These washers can be purchased at most any hardware store.
 
Next pic.

This is the lower passenger side.
Another shot of how the O-clamp fits. If you loosen the handle around the ROPS, the clamp opens right up for quick removal of the windshield.

Also shown is how/where I
connected the front rack. As in the previous post, there's rubber washers on either side of the bolt, where it touches the lexan.
 
Next pic.

This is looking forward from the passenger side.
Cutting the lexan at an angle across the bottom (to follow the contour of the hood/dash) was more than I wanted to play with).
The lexan is straight across the bottom. For rigidity, I put a U channel across the very top and very bottom of the windshield. The top piece can be seen in post 8777 (a couple posts ago). In this pic, it's the aluminum channel going across the bottom.

I believe this is 1/4" channel. To keep it in place, there's a rubber U-channel that you wrap around the Lexan, then jam the aluminum over it. Basically, it's aluminum, lined with rubber then the windshield inside of that. Once you have your lexan (or can at least give a good verbal description of the process), go to any local store that makes windows and they'll know what you need.

Now, I do have a gap between the bottom of the windshield and the hood. In the summer, I open that area to let a breeze come in under the windshield. For the winter, I used a piece of rubber (I think off of a rubber truck mat) that's flat on the top and follows the contour of the hood/dash across the bottom. It stays in place nicely by just drilling a hole at each end and using a zip-tie to secure it to the ROPS.
 
Next pic.

This pic is darker than I thought but it may work. I'll take another (later) if this doesn't make sense.

LEXAN MATERIAL MEASUREMENTS:
Now's as good of time as any to give measurements. The Lexan is 3/16".
OK, the tape measure is at 18.25". This is the height of the upper panel of lexan. The lower piece is 10.5". Both have a width of 52". For your application RE-MEASURE. My measurements were based on:
1. I wanted it to stick out (side-to-side) a bit past the ROPS.
2. I have a gap between my hood and windshield.
3. I have a gap between the top of the windshield and the plastic roof. The windshield does tuck under the roof but I wanted an air gap between them. This allows air to get into the stereo amp which is between the roof and ceiling panels. I don't normally drive in hurricanes, but to date, I've never had water hit the windshield and be able to climb up it. The RTV isn't that fast.

OK, back to the picture.
That black stripe (with grey on top/bottom) is a H-channel that I also purchased at a window shop. This strip is used for rigidity between the upper and lower windshield panels. Being at the bend of the ROPS, it's below your line of sight so it doesn't bother anything.

The grey is the same rubber U-channel that was used in the very upper and lower bracing. Due to the bend, I wasn't able to fit the entire rubber U-channel inside the H channel. I cut the rubber stuff right down the middle of the U, effectively making it a J. This is then tucked between the H channel and the lexan on the outside of the windshield. This stops vibration, scratching as well as water from getting in the channel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top