RTV1100 Front hub

openroad

New member
I put tracks on my Rtv 1100 and in about 5 miles the front left track came off the hub. They where torqued down but pulled the threads out of a few of the stud holes. I bought a new hub and as I went to put it on the old one will not come off. I removed the axle nut and that hub does not budge. Is there a step im missing on these machines??? Any help would be great!!
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
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I put tracks on my Rtv 1100 and in about 5 miles the front left track came off the hub. They where torqued down but pulled the threads out of a few of the stud holes. I bought a new hub and as I went to put it on the old one will not come off. I removed the axle nut and that hub does not budge. Is there a step im missing on these machines??? Any help would be great!!

Might be a good idea to contact the maker of the tracks. What brand do you have ?
 

bordercollie

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cov62431

Member
Make sure your hub is loose (ie: the upper collar around the strut -bolt out loose fitting, the lower ball joint is free moving in the hub socket, and tie rod removed from hub) turn your axle nut around screw it back on the axle shaft. Bottom of nut flush with end of shaft, then a couple firm taps. This should help free up the shaft if it is stuck. Be very careful not to mushroom the end of your axle shaft. Once shaft is free moving in hub, turn the hub in direction of cab, pull axle shaft from hub and remove lower ball joint from hub, then strut. Should come right off. Oh, make sure your brake line is unscrewed and tied off out of the way. You will have to bleed your brakes after you reinstall.
 

bordercollie

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I put tracks on my Rtv 1100 and in about 5 miles the front left track came off the hub. They where torqued down but pulled the threads out of a few of the stud holes. I bought a new hub and as I went to put it on the old one will not come off. I removed the axle nut and that hub does not budge. Is there a step im missing on these machines??? Any help would be great!!

It is my understanding that you just want to take off the front axle part of the wheel(the part which the wheel bolts to-) is that correct?This comes off without taking off anything but the axle nut washers and of coarse the cotter pin. I took off the whole knuckle case when I was replacing the boot. I only gave that link so you could see the half shaft that the part you are taking off slips onto. Also will mention that when I did do the boot replacement and took all that stuff off mentioned in that link I listed, I did NOT remove the brake line . I had just enough slack in my brake line to swing the knuckle case to the side and tie the case out of the way to do the job before me. It does say you will need to do the removal in the manual but I didn't because of the slack in my line.
The part I think you want to take off, which is what the wheel bolts to, I have removed several times to inspect my bearings and then just slipped it back on with a dab of grease. The axle nut will tighten it up on the grooved splines of the half shaft. If it were mine and wouldn't come off I would guess that, unless damaged and it could be, it would be rusted on. I would squirt it with penetrating fluid a few times and try to back down the axle nut a little and see it it would "push it a little to break the hold without harming the bearings. If you already have the replacement "hub" you can see how it looks and how it should slip on the half shaft. Good Luck. bordercollie
 

bordercollie

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parts picture -hopefully it will show up clearly.Left and right side shown. Moderator, delete if necessary. Thanks, bordercollie
 

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cov62431

Member
The hubs on the front are different from the rear. The rears can be taken off as described, the front ones are a bit different. In the illustration above, item #'s 050 or 120 are snap rings (called "cir clips" in the manual) and item #'s 060 or 130 are locking rings that fit over the snap rings to help keep them in place. You have to remove both of these to get the hub out of the knuckle. Unfortunately to get to these you have to remove the 2 piece seal (#'s: 070 or 140), which is why you would have to remove the knuckle from the rtv. You may also need to drain the oil from the knuckle so you don't make too big a mess. Good Luck :)
 

bordercollie

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That is right. I replaced the rear bearings that way when I did the rear ujoints and was thinking about that set of bearings and seals being inspected. I didn't replace the front seals and bearings when I changed the boots. I did buy aftermarket bearings but had to go with oem seals on the rear and they were not in stock at several dealers I checked, so have them in hand if you plan on replacing them in a hurry. That knuckle case doesn't hold that much fluid so I would suggesting changing it anyway and I hope you can keep the brake line intact if you have enough slack as I did, and just swing the assembly to the side to disassemble that hub.Good Luck , bordercollie
 

Milkman06

New member
openroad, I have a 900 and if they are basically the same as the 1100, that hub is grooved with splines and should slip onto the half shaft that I pictured in this thread- http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14060&page=2&highlight=replacing+front+boots when I changed my front boots. It might have rusted on there in your situation. This is a good time to change the front case fluid and check the bearings since the wheels are off. bordercollie
I have the axle out but the hub won't budge. Seems to be locked
 
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