RTV idle adjustment

geohorn said:
That video does not address “idle” adjustments. It tells how to enrichen the fuel (add more fuel-to-ai-ration) to the running mixture.

The idle adjustment is a safety-wired screw which sits on the throttle-plate (fuel-pump-bellcrank) and if you have someone press on the “accelerator” pedal you will see the bell-crank I’m addressing.... and you can adjust idle speed with that.

Beware: These little 3-cyl diesels do NOT idle smoothly at low RPM and should not be adjusted to a slow idle or vibration will damage exhaust manifolds and various brackets on the vehicle. The idle should be at a level which allows smooth running at minimum speed... and it will be MUCH higher than you might expect. The WorkShop Manual specifies 1300-1400 RPM which is almost TWICE as fast as most other internal engines. Listen to the engine and when you think it sounds like it’s running at what would produce a fast-walk... you are are at the LOW end of idle.
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How do you keep the Limiter Screw from coming loose? I am constatly dripping out out of the block and it gets worse and worse. The Pipelock cap makes it very difficult to get at the adjustment nut. Even then I can only screw it in with fingers and it keeps vibrating looser this lose more and more oil.
 
The stop-nut works to do that, If your’s is so worn that it does not work… either replace the screw/nut assy….or you might try applying some Permatex No2 to the threads to create an “anti-vibration” paste to it.
Alternatively, you could croos-drill the screw head (if it’s not already as mine was from the factory) and use safety-wire.
 
There is supposed to be a jamb nut on the adjustment stem. Then a castle nut that coverz and jambs the jamb nut. Get the stem adjusted then while holding the stem with screwdriver tighten the jamb nut against the block. Then install the castle nut and tighten it against the jamb nut to give a final secured fitting. Clear as mud huh?
 
geohorn said:
The stop-nut works to do that, If your’s is so worn that it does not work… either replace the screw/nut assy….or you might try applying some Permatex No2 to the threads to create an “anti-vibration” paste to it.
Alternatively, you could croos-drill the screw head (if it’s not already as mine was from the factory) and use safety-wire.
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I did wipe the screw clean of oil and put a bit of blue loctite on it. However I can get the castle nut to the jam nut because of the protective cap. Also, the threads in the block will be oily and the loctite probably won’t hold.
 
aurthuritis said:
There is supposed to be a jamb nut on the adjustment stem. Then a castle nut that coverz and jambs the jamb nut. Get the stem adjusted then while holding the stem with screwdriver tighten the jamb nut against the block. Then install the castle nut and tighten it against the jamb nut to give a final secured fitting. Clear as mud huh?
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Hi, thanks for recommendation, please see my response to message above. Do I cut the protective cap off so O can get at the castle nut?
 
Just trying to figure out how to remove protective cap without damaging the screw and parts inside it
 
Hello Aurthirotus, two pics attached of the whole part, thx.
 

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That is different than any i have seen. I would measure the length from the end to the flat of the nut and then unscrew the nut out and off of the stem then slide the sleeve off and reinstall the nut to the measurements pre recorded and install. The tamper sleeve i am familiar with will just pop off with pliars. Just a flimsy aluminum break away sleeve.
 
aurthuritis said:
That is different than any i have seen. I would measure the length from the end to the flat of the nut and then unscrew the nut out and off of the stem then slide the sleeve off and reinstall the nut to the measurements pre recorded and install. The tamper sleeve i am familiar with will just pop off with pliars. Just a flimsy aluminum break away sleeve.
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I’ll have to see what I can do, thx
 
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