RTV HST Adjustments

[aurthuritis]

Alaska
on the X1100C in order for everything on the mechanical side of the control to work the HVT the detente on the control bellcranck on top of the engine has to be centered when the foot peddle is at its highest point of travel whaile at the same time the throttle control lever on the injection pump is at rest on the stop and while the speed control lever that controls the swash plates is in the neutral furthest forward but not against the stop. the opposite is in order for the peddle down position. no need to adjust any RPM or pressures.

 

[Alaskanassasin]

Alright I’ll take the linkage off and see if the hst linkage arm is all the way forward.

 

[aurthuritis]

remember to adjust so that it is just a little bit from the stop. probably 1/2 turn of the heim joint.

 

[aurthuritis]

if it were me i would adjust the heim 1/2 turn at a time shorter and then start the machine and feel the gearshift against the gears until it just stops turning. that way you will have maximum travel on the speed lever for all the MPH you can get.

 

[Alaskanassasin]

Alright, that was it, evidently the rod was a bit to short, pulling the hst lever (on the tranny) forward which actually makes the machine go backwards.
So I tried loosening the heim (lengthening) and had it pretty damn close, but 1/2 turn either had the machine rolling forward or backward when pulling the manual throttle and buggy in gear... (in hindsight it would have better to jack the machine up and adjust till the wheels quit turning.)
I took the heat shield off and loosened the jam nut on the topside heim and actually turned the push rod to get it set just right.
I have to say on flat ground it shifts into gear easy peasy, I would recommend everyone jack their rtv up and put it in gear, see if the tires spin.
appreciate the input @aurthuritis

 

[Alaskanassasin]

BUmp

 

[JaggyRoad]

As long ago as you posted this information, it is still relevant. Here it is March 2019 and I just found it. We have a small fleet and one in particular (RTV1100) needs the top pulled and pry the shift fork into place every couple weeks. It is a 2007 & only 1,082 hours.
I knew there had to be a reason and up until now had no reliable info. Going to use this information in the next week and see if it will last.

I want to thank you for taking the time to make this post. I also appreciate AdamsRepair for their input also.

 

[wheeler]

Going back to Spud`s second post "throttle cable". How do I know when the HST linkage has reached maximum travel ? I do not see a stop.
Spike
P.S. 2011 1100C

 

[aurthuritis]

As long ago as you posted this information, it is still relevant. Here it is March 2019 and I just found it. We have a small fleet and one in particular (RTV1100) needs the top pulled and pry the shift fork into place every couple weeks. It is a 2007 & only 1,082 hours.
I knew there had to be a reason and up until now had no reliable info. Going to use this information in the next week and see if it will last.

I want to thank you for taking the time to make this post. I also appreciate AdamsRepair for their input also.

this information spans a couple of different design models from the in my case the 1100 to the X1100 so some of the details are specific to the appropriate model.

 

[aurthuritis]

Going back to Spud`s second post "throttle cable". How do I know when the HST linkage has reached maximum travel ? I do not see a stop.
Spike
P.S. 2011 1100C

the center bell crank under the bed should be centered in it's detente. then the peddle should be disconnected from the bell crank and the stop screw on the floor adjusted for full travel of the peddle before reconnecting to the bell crank. the HST control rod should be adjusted so that at full throttle on the peddle the HST control lever just almost hits full travel. be careful not to adjust against a hard stop on the HST control lever. and with the peddle still at full travel and held against the stop,check the throttle linkage where it connects to the bell crank and make sure it is against the governor throttle stop. oh and by the way before you start to make adjustments make sure everything is disconnected from the bell crank. does this make sense?

 

[charliew]

still revelant, I have a 16 RTV X1140 that this is a problem that has bothered me for a few years but my 1140 only has 44.5 hr on it and is not abused or used much. I am a old mechanic and from this info I will try and figgure this out. I bought the piston that is the antiroll device. I forgot the terminology but I never put it in because I'm thinking it is just a adjustment that was never fixed from the beginning. I talked to the local kubota rep and it sounds like he might be the average type who may or may not be good enough. He has been there since my machine was bought as he remembered it on the lot. His story was it was stolen and driven through a too small cyclone fence gate, I bought it at auction as new with 5 hrs without the warranty card being filled out so it shows to have only been mine. I was covered in light caliche dirt hiding the scratches all on the passenger side which was not disclosed at auction to me, I went to the dealer to learn the circumstance of the scratches. I know the auctioneer personally and now know him better. At auction he described the machine as 100%. The dealer just called me about a rear suspension recall that got me stirred up about the shifting to further study this on the web. I feel sure I can fix this shifting thing from the info here when the weather is better. I'm thinking something might have been bent on the shifter or the brake by the thief's or by the auctioneer when they tried it out for the lot but decided on a smaller one.

 

[aurthuritis]

does your shifter have High,Medium,Low and Reverse? or Just High and Low Reverse?

 

[charliew]

sorry I took my wife out to the shop to press the brake pedal. It has high, low, and reverse. I found the 100 hr vht pressure release adj check in the owners manual and was looking at that. When she presses the pedal as hard as she can the shaft never gets moved. I felt the spring and it might get compressed a tiny bit but it really feels like it is not doing anything but taking up the slack in the mechanism to the shaft sticking out of the tranny. There is some corrosion on the shaft. Could it be stuck? how much should it move? I guess I am gonna buy the shop manual. I thought I did but all I can find is the one on my 326r mower.

 

[aurthuritis]

take some loose juice and gently tap that until it free up.

 

[charliew]

ok I will use some emory cloth and clean it up first. From what it looks like the arm won't move it .050 if it moves it any, course that was with my small wife pushing the brake pedal.

 

[charliew]

well after cleaning it off which was not anything more than a dull discoloration, I found a thin groove machined in the shaft and I'm betting it is supposed to be moved in that amount when the brake is firmly depressed and also I'm thinking maybe the spring should be compressed some amount.

 

[rakinnear]

Servo Adjust Screw

Last step, all other things done. You have marked the screws location. Know the factory setting and that is where it is now. Right!

If it is mine, either the 9 or the 11, I messed up both, I will be readjusting to 1.5 turns out from bottom.

Taking it for a warm up run and then testing.

Remember each time you adjust. A little run will reset the location of the internals especially when adjusting out. The spring is not that heavy and it may be sticky. If you notice it never moves you may have to remove the 4 allen heads from the screw mounting cover and lubricate the area with transmission fluid to help lubricate and loosen the plunger. That's a whole other issue to be covered later if someone can't get any adjustment out of the servo.

For now assuming you did some trial runs between adjustments we'll assume its free and moving with each adjustment.

Servo Adjust Screw at 1 1/2 turns out from bottom.

Try moving the white dot, you have one right, by 1 hour as seen on a clock either way from 12:00 and test.

Don't go any further than 1/2 turn from the mid point that you start at, that being 1 1/2 turns. Thinking is any less than 1 turn out or any more that 2 turns out from bottom is no good. It should be somewhere between 1 and 2 turns out.

I can add as many screen shots of the manual for reference or assistance. Let me know.

Read all of this first, follow the order and hopefully you will have success.

Marking everything before will insure you can put things back.

Nothing is earth shattering here, just some fine tuning and step by step adjustments that most with some mechanical skills can accomplish.

Good luck and keep us update on any suggestions, progress or issues.

Hi There!
I recently bought a 2014 rtv 1100 with about 1600 hours on it.

I dont have any maintenance records on it and it looks to be well-used by the previous owner but runs well over all.

One of the biggest issues I have noticed is the general lack of power when going up any sort of incline. I will admit that most of the inclines, driveway included are fairly steep where I am but it will drop to about 5mph in Medium and slowly lug up the hill.

Ive been reading several of the threads on this issue and have made sure to clear the spark arrestor which was clogged and also adjusted the fuel screw 2 full turns to help pep it up a bit without needing to use the high idle as often.

I came upon this thread and after reading made adjustments to tighten the cable tension for both cables at the throttle bracket junction but did not make any adjustment to the servo or hst lever or at the fuel pump throttle cable.

My question is should I be starting elsewhere with this many hours? Perhaps a valve adjustment first? Or do you think the Hst adjustment may be the ticket?

I am also wondering if increasing the fuel is doing more harm than good?

thank you!!

 

[aurthuritis]

adjusting the servo won't help any power issues. have you replaced the transmission oil and filters? if not then this is your best first place to start and use kubota oil and filters. next is what is the max rpm the engine is running full throttle?

 

[rakinnear]

adjusting the servo won't help any power issues. have you replaced the transmission oil and filters? if not then this is your best first place to start and use kubota oil and filters. next is what is the max rpm the engine is running full throttle?

Thanks for the reply! Yes I have replaced fluids and filters.

not sure of the max rpm at full throttle. Are you able to hook a scanner up to these for rpm readings since they dont have a tach?

 

[aurthuritis]

you can use a photo tach on the harmonic balancer. the max no load rpm is between 3600 and 3800 rpm. did you use super udt2 in the transmission?