Operating a FEL effectively?

[Carpetride]

So I will recieve my new 4530 w/FEL on Wednesday. My question is do any of you "old" pro's have any tips on using a FEL more efficiently? Example would be that in the near future I plan to expand my driveway, we live on extremely flat deep soil (no rocks here) and am thinking I will do the dirt work myself. Overall I think the slab will be 4-5" with perimeter being a little deeper not unlike my existing driveway (my concrete guy will have final say on thickness).

 

[MtnViewRanch]

First thing that comes to mind is to read the operators manual for the loader. Not sure about your tractor, but mine came with an operators manual just for the loader. Lots of tips just in it. Apply those tips and practice, practice, practice. There is no substitute for hours on the machine. Good luck

 

[shinnlinger]

Carpetride,

YOu will need to get all the top soil up. You will see they color of the soil change 4-6 inches down and the top layer should go in a pile for a garden someday, or you may be able to sell it or at least give it away if you don't want to keep it around.

I would try to slice the turf around the perimeter of what you want to remove so you don't tear up what you want to stay. You can rip sod rippers for this purpose and then roll it up neatly by hand or you can pick it up with your FEL not so neatly but a good intro to FEL 101.

NOw I would try to attach a shank of some kind (and old leaf spring would work well) either to the bucket or to a rear implement to rip the perimeter, but that is just me...for best results rent a sod ripper, or walk around the perimeter with a shovel and slice it that way if the area isn't humoungous. If you have a sense of humor and patience to deal with the mess, just spray paint out what you want to remove and start tearing it up with the FEL. Go slow and read the soils color changes, you dont want to remove anything more than the topsoil as below that is a nicely compacted base that you will have to replace with compacteds gravel if you tear it up also. Throwing base in with your topsoil also minimizes its usefullness

You should know that FEL's are not really intended for digging in this manner, but rather moving already dug piles, But if you move slowly in low range with the bucket angled down slightly (and proably your foot on the axle lock) you will do what millions have done before you with few ill effects.

Good Luck!

 

[Carpetride]

Carpetride,

You should know that FEL's are not really intended for digging in this manner, but rather moving already dug piles, But if you move slowly in low range with the bucket angled down slightly (and proably your foot on the axle lock) you will do what millions have done before you with few ill effects.

Good Luck!

I know but for no more than this will be I should be OK...

BTW 2 years ago we dug an 11ft deep hole for a storm shelter, our soil profile never changed--just sandy loam all the way to the bottom.

 

[Dougster]

You should know that FEL's are not really intended for digging in this manner, but rather moving already dug piles, But if you move slowly in low range with the bucket angled down slightly (and proably your foot on the axle lock) you will do what millions have done before you with few ill effects. Good Luck!

Sooooooo true!

My contribution to this thread (besides what Brian already said about the irreplaceable value of experience with your machine):

Get a toothbar or some weld-on teeth (or do like I did and buy a separate toothed digging bucket)! If you are gonna dig with an FEL bucket, there is no other way to fly!

Dougster

 

[mongoose]

Teeth work well to help loosen the sod, without them you end up scooting over the top or going too deep. There are some quick attatch teeth on the market that would be more cost effective than another bucket.

 

[PaulChristenson]

Back-dragging with an FEL

Be careful when performing this exercise...

 

[Wotrboi]

It's really not hard. Point the bucket down slightly and dig in a couple of inches deep. This gives a starting point. Back up, level the bucket and drop it into the crease you just dug. Move slowly forward, controlling the depth of cut primarily with the tilt (dump angle) of the bucket not the lift. A little practice and you can dig very nearly flat with no problem. If the ground is flat side to side it won't take but a few minutes to cut 6" deep for 50 feet or so. If the ground has a "tilt" angle into the high side and cut slightly. Back up and dump the dirt where your REAR wheels will end up during the next cut. Square up and cut as flat. The rear wheels control the side to side tilt of the bucket. Don't rush. If you get a washboard, just drag some dirt over to level it out then re-cut. It's really difficult to just cut the washboard flat once it's started. If the ground is really hard, run over it with a plow of some sort before you start to dig. A turning plow is great if you're going deep, a cultivator is super for a shallow cut. The brand new cutting edge will really give you good control if you use the tilt function rather than the lift to control your cut depth. If you have to scrape concrete or asphalt, try to keep the bucket as flat as you can so you don't round off that great new edge.