Oil Extractor

i use an oil extractor to change engine oil with great success. i even went to the trouble to drain what was left just to see how much was left and found just a drip. much easier for me than taking the skid plate off. i haven't used it on the HST but it should work fine i would think and my next change i will use the extractor. i haven't used the one in your link.

this is mine https://www.johndow.com/product/6-20-gallon-fluid-evacuators/ i use it on all of my equipment.
 
glennm said:
I’m getting ready to change fluids on my rtv 900 and bx23. Can you remove all the fluids easily with an oil extractor like this one? (Engine oil and hst)

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/mityvac-fluid-evacuator-plus-23-gal-88-l-mit7201
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I have one similar to the one in your link. It's 15 years or so old. I primarily used it on the houseboat we used to own. Two 454 engines and a 4 cyl generator. it worked great. I never used it for tractor or RTV for fear of not getting all the old oil out. Thanks for your info Aurthuritis. GREAT to know. I will use the extraction method more often on other equipment.

Only problem i see with the one in your link is I'm not sure it would hold all the hydro fluid (can't remember how much the RTV's hold.

Very nice extractor you have there aurthuritis. I'd like to splurge and get one of those but I have a feeling they are quite expensive.
 
Doc said:
I have one similar to the one in your link. It's 15 years or so old. I primarily used it on the houseboat we used to own. Two 454 engines and a 4 cyl generator. it worked great. I never used it for tractor or RTV for fear of not getting all the old oil out. Thanks for your info Aurthuritis. GREAT to know. I will use the extraction method more often on other equipment.

Only problem i see with the one in your link is I'm not sure it would hold all the hydro fluid (can't remember how much the RTV's hold.

Very nice extractor you have there aurthuritis. I'd like to splurge and get one of those but I have a feeling they are quite expensive.
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it was cheaper than back surgery.:drink:
 
Aurthuritus I have to disagree on this one, though the skid plate is a massive pita I generally sweep up a 5 gallon buckets worth of mud that was living rent free in the under carriage every time I drop them.
 
I'd like not to have to get down on my back and rather have the ability to vacuum up the oil, but I think it is important to spend at least some time cleaning the skid plate areas and check for damage, leaks, etc. As my knees age (not me) I may end up with one of the vacuum systems however!
 
Alaskanassasin said:
Aurthuritus I have to disagree on this one, though the skid plate is a massive pita I generally sweep up a 5 gallon buckets worth of mud that was living rent free in the under carriage every time I drop them.
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yeah i am right there with ya on that. but mine fills up with grass chaff and mud and dirt. but i can clean it out easier from above with compressed air and water.
 
BiffNH said:
I'd like not to have to get down on my back and rather have the ability to vacuum up the oil, but I think it is important to spend at least some time cleaning the skid plate areas and check for damage, leaks, etc. As my knees age (not me) I may end up with one of the vacuum systems however!
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i do most of that when i grease my machine. sliding around on my backside.:yum:
 
aurthuritis said:
that is exactly like the one i have. those extra probes are handy for different cars and trucks. mine came with a dump hose and valve so you just pressurize the tank and put the nozzle in the waste oil can and turn the valve so it empty's itself.
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Emptying is the only problem I have with my Mityvac 7400, and the capacity , I can't use on any of the tractors.
but it works great on RTV, 4 wheeler and lawn mowers..
 
Oil Extractor Use

Depending on the Kubota model, how do you guys get around to accessing the oil filter without at least either removing one skid plate and/or loosening the other? Have you re-route access to the oil filter by using a kit?
 
Big O said:
Depending on the Kubota model, how do you guys get around to accessing the oil filter without at least either removing one skid plate and/or loosening the other? Have you re-route access to the oil filter by using a kit?
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On a X900, its a little tight for old arthritic hands, but it can be done by just raising the bed.
 
On a 1140 the oil filter is just below the alternator and can be reached from the top. A little tight maneuving but it can be done. On a 1100 cpx the oil filter is positioned that the topside access is prohibited and one must go forward of the driver's side tire to gain access. Some tight maneuving and twisting will remove this filter that is perpenditure to the engine. I was unaware of the access on a 900 model.
 
I just spent a year and a half getting WalMart to pay me for what they did to my truck in Texarkana while on a long trip. It took some sleuthing to figure out WM has all my service trips stored in their computers, but when I did I was able to prove to them their Texarkana store LOCK-TITED my drain plug closed.

It could not be removed even with a PIPE Wrench! It took $600 at my auto repair shop to replace the entire oil pan. WM had been evacuating the oil ever since Texarkana and when I decided to do my own oil I discovered what the TXK store had done to me.

Anyway... after spending MONTHS hounding them their corporate hdqtrs in Bentonville finally sent me a check!

I kept my old oil pan in case it ended up in court and frankly I was/am surprise how much oil remains BELOW the drain plug if it is used instead of evacuating it.

It’s convinced me to buy an evacuator also. I found an electric one on Amazon and will see how it does, but the one Arthuritis uses is probably a high quality unit I may end up with if I find evacuation becomes my preferred method. In fact, the only reason I allowed WM to do my oil was because I was tired of having to drain oil from beneath the vehicle.
 
geohorn said:
I just spent a year and a half getting WalMart to pay me for what they did to my truck in Texarkana while on a long trip. It took some sleuthing to figure out WM has all my service trips stored in their computers, but when I did I was able to prove to them their Texarkana store LOCK-TITED my drain plug closed.

It could not be removed even with a PIPE Wrench! It took $600 at my auto repair shop to replace the entire oil pan. WM had been evacuating the oil ever since Texarkana and when I decided to do my own oil I discovered what the TXK store had done to me.

Anyway... after spending MONTHS hounding them their corporate hdqtrs in Bentonville finally sent me a check!

I kept my old oil pan in case it ended up in court and frankly I was/am surprise how much oil remains BELOW the drain plug if it is used instead of evacuating it.

It’s convinced me to buy an evacuator also. I found an electric one on Amazon and will see how it does, but the one Arthuritis uses is probably a high quality unit I may end up with if I find evacuation becomes my preferred method. In fact, the only reason I allowed WM to do my oil was because I was tired of having to drain oil from beneath the vehicle.
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i really don't know if the one i have is really all that much different than the one that harbor freight sells or not. it is just the one i have and the only one i can give my opinion on. but for me the ability to not have to crawl under some equipment has been great. :bonk:

one thing to note about the one i have is that you need compressed air to draw the vacuum on it before it can work. for me that isn't a problem but for some folks the one that has the pump attached might be better???? i can get several oil changes out of it for each vacuum charge though.
 
No prob for me on the shop-air.... but it will still be a PIA to get beneath the vehicle to R/R the spin-on filter. (I hate the engineers who always seem to discover a way to mount filters such that they spill oil all over the place.)

The Toyota folks have taken the oil filter installation to an entirely new level....

... on my wife’s Toyota Sienna they’ve developed a Rube-Goldberg filter that requires a hex-plug be removed, then using a special drain-tube be inserted to “pre-drain” the filter. THEN the main-housing for the filter must be unscrewed (with yet another special tool) to remove the filter cartridge.

No, you ain’t finished YET.... There’s two O-rings that must be replaced (and you have to be careful not to unintentionally disturb an internal by-pass spring-and-valve) ...THEN you screw it all back together and onto the engine.

If you have only advanced technical experience/talent of a former Factory-Trained Toyota-Technician instead of the normal rocket-scientist experience... you then will start the engine and after 20 seconds you’ll see you still have an oil-pressure warning-light illuminated. THEN you smell the oil.

You shut down the engine and look underneath to see the 5.8 qts ...(yes... it’s 5 and 3/4 qts of oil... which no one sells a container in that volume)... you’ll see that 5.8 qts all over the ground! Why? Because the Toyota PLASTIC oil filter housing is made of thin BLACK bakelite and has a virtually undetectable crack in it after two oil changes and the 60 psi oil pressure blows 5.8 qts per 20-seconds thru that crack.

Run to the parts store and purchase an all-METAL aftermarket unit made by Dorman and select the proper-length internal bypass valve tube included in the kit, and you can probably skip the double oil-change routine for the future as well as the associated oil-spill cleanup. (Did I fail to mention the car only uses expensive full-synthetic? Don’t know how that will affect the grass in front of my shop yet. Didn’t help my budget tho’.)

The ‘05 Buick I gave my grandkid to learn to drive in the usual teen-ager crash-course had a tiny spin on filter designed to spill oil all over the starter-motor and wiring harness and an ordinary spin-on filter-wrench could not be used on it or the tool would damm near cause a fire when it shorted against the starter-terminal.

The Ram P/U filter has a drain-chute beneath it to keep oil off the crossmember and deliver it directly onto the tie-rods and suspension instead.

Those must the be highest-paid engineers around.
 
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