Terrawombat
Member
All parts on order. Many were in stock at Messicks, but some needed to be ordered with a 5-7 day lead time so I'll have a bit of downtime to get the cylinder honed before I start reassembling.
That's fantastic!! Your gamble paid off!! Be sure to use a true hone, not a deglazer.
This...……https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-K0AAOSwX61ZCD3I/s-l300.jpg
Not this...http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/360851111029-0-1/s-l1000.jpg
Just a point of interest: You never know when your sharing of experiences with your RTV might be invaluable to someone in the future.
Your well thought out explanations and descriptions, along with your excellent photos, give us an 'over your shoulder' view of your work. Just wish we could be there to hand you a wrench or a cup of coffee as you proceed.
Can you tell, even with all it's shortcomings, we are a pretty loyal group when it comes to our RTV's.
Speaking from personal experience...
While you are in there with a gauge check the head for flatness. This engine is robust, if a cylinder is toast I suspect poor maintenance is likely the cause.
Engine temp can read normal, until its under load when it blows out the coolant.
Not much to update today. I thought I would have a bunch of engine parts delivered, but they got held up and will be in tomorrow. I did get a set of new speakers to replace the dead OEM units. They are Boss Audio BRS40 and they bolted in with no modifications. They were $11 each on Amazon and I think they sound just fine, but I'm no audiophile. The weather band stations come in just fine so I think my Dad will be more than satisfied. I did have some random issues with my new Jensen unit where it would randomly freeze and become completely unresponsive so I sent a message to their tech support about it. We'll see how good they are...
I also never showed any pictures of the floor rust/rot. It's bad. Very bad. Once the engine is running to my liking that will be my next project. Luckily I have a metal shear and brake at work I can use to fabricate new floor pans.
Had an "oops" moment tonight. I installed the cylinder head yesterday but forgot to install the lower thermostat housing onto the head prior to installing it on the engine. Now I've got some clearance issues where I can't get to two of the bolts on the lower thermostat housing so I either need to 1) Remove the cylinder head or 2) remove the front gear housing. Leaning towards option 2 so I can inspect everything under there to make sure there are no issues. It'll be more work, but I like the peace of mind.
Hold off on that...
If you cut the bolt for the T stat housing there are enough threads to make a good seal. It is a PITA but it beats removing the head again or the chain cover.
I won't take credit for this suggestion, I found it here using the search feature.
I'll take a look at this in the daylight, but I'm struggling to see how this was accomplished. I took several threads off one of the screws and I shaved down the hex portion of the screw by about 1/16". Even with that I don't think I can make this work, but I'll give it another go. Below is a picture of where my modified screw is at. I'd basically need to cut all the threads down to make this work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KYrYLszTAP3Az3ZU6