Major hydraulic tranny leak

[jwstewar]

I've been moving a bunch of dirt into the new barn. The good thing is I'm getting close, the bad thing is I've been noticing some oil drips in my "path." At first I thought it was from where the rubber line joins the metal line along the side of the transmission that I've fix a couple times before (once under warranty). Well, unfortunately that isn't the case. As you can see from the pics, it is running out of the tranny itself and running down the front drive shaft. Not sure what I'm going to get into here. Looking on ebay to see if I can buy a repair manual for it. Not a good start to mowing season.

I guess would help to say, this is my 2003 New Holland TC-24D with a tick over 1700 hours.

 

[jwstewar]

I had sent a message to Monica's uncle. He is a New Holland mechanic. He thinks either the 4wd shaft seal or a line above it. Not sure what all that involves. Hoping I don't have to split the tractor.

 

[jwstewar]

I kept running into road blocks for resources and getting questions answered and not wanting to pay a huge repair bill, I figured I was on my own. To be fair, I didn't call dealerships because I kinda knew the answer would be bring it in, we can take care of it.

So, anyway,, I've done the deed. I've got the tractor split.

Here are a few pictures. First is the operator's platform with the seat removed. The second one is from the front of where the seat would be. Next is after I removed the handrails and covers over the fenders, the hood, and the dash. Next picture is after I had removed the ROPS, fenders, floor boards, tires, and some of the hard hydraulic lines. 5th picture is basically where the operator's platform would be if it were there. 6th picture is the right side looking at the hydro pedal. Then things got a bit dirty and hectic and it took a major jump. The tractor is now split. This is looking at the back of the front of the tractor. The hydro pump sits in that big empty space under the red light hanging there. Last picture is looking at the front of the back of the tractor. Notice all of the dirt and grime on top of the pump (the big orange thing).

 

[bczoom]

Dang. Did you find the problem in there? Once you find/fix that, another 15 minutes to reassemble the tractor and you'll be back in business. Don't forget to have a large cardboard box ready to hold all the spare parts you'll have after putting it back together. They weren't needed. Happens to me all the time.

 

[jwstewar]

This first picture is the clutch and throwout bearing. Not sure what happened or why, but the throwout bearing dropped. That little spring that is hanging down connects to the throwout bearing to pull it back into place. Throwout bearing is $75. While I've got it split, I think I'm going to go ahead and replace it. It means I have to pull the clutch housing off, but that sure beats getting it all put back together and having to take it back apart because of a bad throwout bearing. At 1700+ hours, it could be getting close any way. At this time, I don't plan on doing the clutch since the tractor is hydro and you don't really have to slip it like you would in a geared vehicle. Though that could change if/when I pull the clutch housing off to replace the throwout bearing.

Last picture is of the pump. When the tractor was together you couldn't see where the leak was coming from - you could just see it out the bottom of the tractor. I think this shows the tale pretty well. It looks as though it has "washed" the pump pretty good.

So far the only damage I've done is I didn't remove the test ports and bent them pretty badly. They might be able to be reused, but for $25 for the pair, I will probably replace them.

I've talked to a couple of New Holland and Case Dealerships. The seal kit for the pump is basically $280. One dealership is $49.50 per hour and they said 2 - 3 hours to do it, but they've never done one and no way to test it. Next shop is $70 per hour and they said 1 - 1.5 hours - no way to test. Third shop is a case dealership. They are $85 per hour and they said probably 5 - 6 hours and no way to test.

I've also been in touch with a place called Wooster Hydrostat. Depending on who the pump was made by, they may be able to test it before and after rebuild. I'm seriously considering taking a drive and have them look at the pump and having them do the rebuild vs. a New Holland dealer. I heard they are expensive, but are the best.

Still need to pull the pump out of the case though.

 

[jwstewar]

BTW, I started on this about 1:00 yesterday and worked fairly steady, but not at a break neck pace either. Only stopping to eat dinner. The last pictures were taken about 9:45 last night.

 

[Doc]

Dang, what a day. If I have to remove 3 things to get at whatever I'm after I can be in trouble. You did a heck of a job for not knowing what you were tearing into. Are you a mechanical engineer by trade? If not you could have been. Impressive.
Good luck with getting the pump fixed and reassembly.

 

[jwstewar]

Dang, what a day. If I have to remove 3 things to get at whatever I'm after I can be in trouble. You did a heck of a job for not knowing what you were tearing into. Are you a mechanical engineer by trade? If not you could have been. Impressive.
Good luck with getting the pump fixed and reassembly.

Not an engineer, just a lowly computer programmer. A little worried about the reassembly, but I'll get it. Hopefully it goes back together and works on the first try. I don't want to have to this job again.

 

[jwstewar]

After quite a few calls around to different tractor dealers and also a couple of places that specialize in hydrostatic pumps and hit dead-ends with them, I ended up taking the pump to Franklin Equipment here in Columbus. They said $280 for the seals & $70 hour and 1 1/2 hours to repair it. 6 days later and 4 1/2 hours labor charge they called me to tell me the pump was done. So I went and picked it up yesterday. Nice and clean pump, new o ring where the pump connects to the tranny, new O-rings for the lines that go to the pump, new hydro and hydraulic filters, new air, oil, and fuel filters, and 7.5 gallons of hydraulic fluid and a check for almost $900 and I think I have everything to put it back together. I decided not to do the clutch and the throwout bearing - at least so far. Looking at the manual a lot of what has to be removed I haven't removed yet and what I have removed really isn't that much. So I'm going to hold off on doing that. At least that is, as long as I can get the throwout bearing back up in place and I can get the tractor back together. The technician that rebuilt the pump kind of scared me when he said, You may have trouble getting the spline of that pump back into the clutch assembly

 

[jwstewar]

Oh, one more thing, just out of curiosity, I price a new hydrostatic pump. $4500.

 

[OhioTC18]

Glad it was only $900 Jim. I'm not sure I could have gotten the tractor to the point you did.

 

[jwstewar]

Thanks Jerry, but anyone can take it apart. It is the putting it back together and does it work that is the hard part. Hoping to do that this weekend. Of course, thought I was going to have 4 days to do it, but I'm actually working from home today instead of on the tractor. Then I need to dewinterize the camper this weekend and use the F-I-Ls little rider and mow some of the grass around the house.

 

[jwstewar]

Well the pump is back in the tractor, but the tractor still isn't combined yet. I misplaced the cotter keys that I needed for a couple of linkages. I've found all of the bolts and stuff, so if that is all that I lost, I'm doing good. Been kind of hectic the last few days. We had plans for a couple hours on Sunday that ended up taking about 8 hours so that took the time I was planning on doing the actual join back up. Once I do that, I can then work on it in small pieces.

 

[jwstewar]

Well the tractor is back in one piece. Had a heck of a time getting it back together. Ended up having to block the clutch lever. Then I borrowed an inspection camera to make sure all was going in correctly. Then a nice sunny day so I could see down in there and slid it together with Monica's help. Got it to with probably an inch and couldn't get it to go. Ended up using rachet straps tied to the front and rear axles and finished pulling it together. Started torquing the buckle up bolts and broke one. I was looking at the wrong bolts in the manual for the torque specs. I've tried drilling it out but so far it is winning. But I was getting tired and frustrated. So I've moved to replacing other things. So far a few hydraulic lines, the clutch pedal, left brake, and front drive shaft are back in place. Both the clutch and brake pedals feel normal. Just finish hooking up one of the lines on the left side and posting this so I'm taking a little break, but now I've got to get started on that broken bolt.

 

[jwstewar]

Well, I'm getting closer. Had it not been for the broken bolt, I would have been driving it already. I spent all Saturday morning and then my buddy that works at a fabrication shop came over about 2 and we worked until about 7:30 or 8. Still didn't get the bolt out. We tried several small bits, and rotary file to grind the broken bolt smooth. It seemed as though nothing would touch that bolt. Then we finally hit on something a got a hole drilled. He put the bolt extractor in and gave it a couple of good wacks. Then tried to back the extractor out with a small to medium sized crescent wrench. The extractor broke. From there we knew we were hurtin'. He had a new carbon bit in his car. He tried with it. Didn't really make much progress. So at this time we are at a loss as to where to go, other than he is going to get some left handed drill bits today. In the first picture you can see where the bolt goes. It is right beside the gold hydraulic line and bolt. One option is to split the tractor again and take the clutch housing off and put it in a press. If the left hand drill bits don't work, I don't know if I'll do that, or "chance" it without the bolt. I don't like idea of not having that bolt, but I'm needing the tractor too. If I still have the leak or something happens I have to resplit, I will take the press route. If I have to split and ever put in a clutch or throwout bearing I will as well. Anyone else thoughts on this part?

Next pic is of the left side of where I left it last night. All hydraulic lines are hooked back up, brake pedals, hydro pedals, and clutch pedals all work. Fenders are back on and so is the right side step. Other than the "combine" and then the broken bolt, the hardest thing was putting the right step on. A couple of spring for the brake pedals and parking brake and then a rod for the parking brake. Manual wasn't much help. It just said reattach and not illustrations. Gee, thanks.

Next pic is the right fender and you can see my wiring mess where I wired in the front and rear work lights and the trailer plug. I couldn't remember how it was wired up, took me awhile to figure it out, but I think I have it now. Just need to retape everything to be "neat."

Finally the last pic is of the left side again.

If I get home in time tonight, I might put the hydraulic fluid it. Then I think I can fool the tractor enough to start. Then I can take the pressure off one of the jack stands on the axle and see if it "moves." From there I can finish installing the operator platform, seat, ROPS, etc.

Still some bolts and a spring right there at the seat area that I don't remember how it goes exactly, so that may require some head scratchin' as well.

 

[jwstewar]

Oh, BTW, I filled the pump with hydraulic fluid before I connected the lines - at least the best I could. Then I filled both the hydraulic and hydrostat filters with fluid before installing. Not sure, if there is much else I can do at this point to "prime" the pump. I'm not sure which way is best, use the glow plugs and start the engine right away or don't use the glow plugs and "crank" the engine so the pump sucks oil before the engine really takes off and goes up to full speed.

 

[jwstewar]

Made a little bit of progress last night. I went to put the new washers for the drain plugs on the rear axles and mid-PTO that I picked up yesterday. They were the incorrect size. So no hydraulic fluid yet last night. Ended up putting the other step on and the front support for the seat. Then I worked on getting it to start - without actually let it start. Had my head scratchin' for awhile again, but it turned out to be the safety switch for the mid-PTO. Readjusted it a bit and I could hear relays clicking, so I knew I was on the right track. The PTO levers had both been giving me a little bit of issues before this and would occasionally require messing with, so I think I solved that issue as well now. Then I figured out the spring at the seat I wasn't sure what it was. It went to the valve for the 3PH.

So I went at lunch today and got the correct size washers for the drain plugs and also picked up a fan belt. So before I start using it, I'm also going to change the oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter, antifreeze, and fan belt. Should have it in pretty good shape then. I think then about the only thing I will start looking at is to start replacing the hydraulic lines to the loader and the power steering, but first I have to replenish the repair bill fund.

If things go as planned, I will be bushhogging the yard Friday, mowing the yard Saturday, and hauling dirt to the barn on Sunday.

 

[OhioTC18]

It's coming together slowly but surely

 

[jwstewar]

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I was able to get everything back together enough to get it started and moving. Only thing missing really is the hood and ROPS. The good news is everything works - high/low range, both brakes, all safety switches, cruise control, clutch, PTOs, and the 3PH. That is all good. Now the downside, I'm still getting fluid leaking out of the bottom. I was getting tired and really pissed off last night so I didn't crawl under it and look. I'm going to borrow the inspection camera again to see if I can find anything in the daylight. I'm happy that everything works, but so mad that I didn't fix it. I didn't want to tear the tractor apart and put it back together for the hell of it. GRRRR!!!!!

I have a couple of things that need done this weekend. Even if it continues to leak, I may go ahead and do those this weekend before I decide what to do as far as resplitting the tractor.

 

[jwstewar]

Good news!!!!

I found the source of the leak, I had replaced the test port adaptors because I hadn't removed them and bent them when I was trying to split the tractor. I couldn't get the plugs out of the old ones so I just went to Advance Auto (I know there was my mistake) and got some that "fit" but they aren't sealing properly. I call the dealer on Friday morning and ordered the correct ones. I then proceeded to put the old bent ones back in. They sealed right back up. I wiped the excess and I then drove the tractor around for a while and after the initial dripping stopped, it started to dry up. I then finished putting the tractor back together Friday morning. I then used it to bush hog and put about 7 hours on the clock Friday and all appears to be dry. I still need to adjust the hydrostat pedal a bit as it isn't completely returning to center. I need to do that, grease everything, and still change the oil in the front axle. If it weren't for that damn broken bolt, I would call it a very successful fix, but unfortunately.... Now fortunately using it Friday, I saw no signs of stress, though I really haven't used the loader much. Just yesterday to haul some used straw out of a couple of stalls in the goat barn.