Knuckle case/Front axle oil change

[bordercollie]

Today the weather was cool and I had a little free time so decided to do the oil change in the front knuckle cases and front axle. I find the job a lot easier when the tires are off of the front ... It was time to swap sides so wear would be more even with the multidirectional tread of the Blackwater Evolutions so I quit procrastinating and went for it. I have put on average 600 hours a year on these tires, bought them almost 2 years ago so am guessing they have 1200 hrs on them... wow! really good wear for me.. Now I have those jobs done and will do the rear tire rotation maybe tomorrow depending on the farm goings on. Will also grease, wiggle and poke and probe everything back there.. I change the engine oil yesterday so after I buy a bit more of the sudt2 will chance the transmission and will be sitting good for several months.
Several things I thought about while I was doing the knuckle cases and front axle that I thought I would mention for newbies with the older machines like my 2011 RTV900 xtr. My 2005 900 was the same method....
I don't know a thing about the new models...
I keep a toothbrush in my tool box to clean the areas around all plugs before I remove them. It is amazing how hidden dirt likes to fall where it shouldn't and the toothbrush does a decent job of helping prevent that. I also use it to clean out the dust/grit in anything with threads.
On the front axle , It is harder to get to . I would suggest cleaning out the complete area around the drain hole or else when you put the plug back in, the dirt and dried mud will be there getting your plug all gritty. I put my plug back by feel because it is hard to see under there.( sorry about the picture of this area being at the wrong angle) Also should mention that the top fill plug has a grove on one side of the housing that will hold a lot of grass seed and dirt so in my opinion it's another job for the air gun and tooth brush before you remove the plug. ( You will be proud later you cleaned this area .) I have a small ,compact long necked funnel I keep just for this work. I keep a rag or bag over the funnel throat until I have positioned it in the area and am ready to pour the sudt in. Otherwise, right when I have it perfectly placed, a big clump of something will fall in it from above.. I have filled the front axle from the hood area (below the horn) , and from the winch mount area. To fill here, I premeasure the oil in a small container such as a small disposable water bottle and pour in the funnel slowly. I have included a picture of the drained sudt and the new sudt . It has about 400 hours on it and is still somewhat translucent if you hold it up but definitely was in order to be changed. A machine will last longer if regular maintaince is performed. Anyways had a pretty good day and relieved some 2 months of stress from the hectic farm this time of year I also had my number one ,loyal helper there on the RTV floorboard "helping " me and dozing in between. This is the way I do this and may not suit others. bordercollie

 

[King]

Really nice write up thank you

 

[RealtreeRTV]

Thanks for the reminder Bordercollie!

My buggy has 280 hours and I did this same service today after reading your post.

The knuckle case oils were clean, but the axle case oil was nasty.

No metal chunks but the oil had a definite metallic sheen and was far from clean.
Glad I didn't wait for the 400 hour mark that the manual states you can go to.
I'll keep my fingers crossed and change it again in 50 to 100 hours and see what it looks like then.

Thanks again for your post.

 

[Mark.Sibole]

Knuckles were the easy ones to do.I wish they would have made a better access pont for the front differential.
I did mine last season and have low hours on it since then so im good to go there for another season.Oil and trans fluids and filters changed last month in preperation for winter.That generally when i do the fluid changes just before the heavy snow removal season.

 

[bordercollie]

Thanks King and Realtree . I am happy to be of some help. Realtree, I think you are safe but I will be interested in finding out about the next change. Mark , you are right in that the front diff axle is a pain to fill. I put in a real buick style horn to get the cows attention and took out the beep beep horn . Now the big thing is right in the way of filling from above. I also have the hydraulic cooler under the hood that I added.... and the calf scale is still on and those wires all are in the way of a straight shot to the fill port.. I need to find my green 2 piece extension funnel for that.. Since I don't have a winch, That front area works pretty good when I use a short bottle to pour the oil in the funnel. collie

 

[Mark.Sibole]

Collie,
Next time i change differential fluid im seriously thinking on checking the threads on the plug and see if i can make a filler tube to screw right in them put a cap on the other end that would make it a lot more acessable.Only draw back to it would be the lack of a ripstick to check fluid .Then id have to figure out a way to make a dip stick.Lord knows there has to be an easier way to do it.Onmine with the plow mount it is almost impossible for me to even get to the dipstick with my big hands.

Regards

Mark

 

[bordercollie]

You are right about that Mark. I have an assortment of bib/ threaded plastic fittings for making water float repairs and will see if the thread is the same.. It would be so nice to temporarily screw one in the filler port and have a nice long hose ( preferably clear ) and funnel attached to reach the accessible area. Pour in premeasured fluid and your done. I know the pouring would need to be slow to let air escape or "boil back" would be a problem. This way we could still use the permanent dipstick plug . Have a great evening, collie

 

[avantiguy]

Bordercollie

First rate writeup and pictures. I'll need to do mine next year and your post will make the job that much easier.

Now if I can only find the post then. CRS

Bob

 

[SpudHauler]

This might help someone;

Not sure if the 900 is the same, but on the 1100 (2008) WSM it suggested removing a panel for access to the diff.

I know it would seem like overkill, but these three items, 2 knuckles and one front diff, could be changed every time you do an engine oil change.

They often are totally forgotten.
.

 

[D&D Farm]

Once again, Miss Judy comes through with really great information, techniques, and practical knowledge......THANKS......God bless......Dennis

 

[bordercollie]

Thank you brother Dennis. I am truly honored to be a part of this family. judy aka collie

 

[Heatwave]

BC: Where do you place your jack and jackstand(s) when you're lifting and working on the front end of your 900?

I confess to having never checked the knuckles or the front diff on my '08 900. I should get busy before it gets too cold to work on the machine. Many thanks for your thoughtful write-up and informative pix. They will help me considerably.

 

[bordercollie]

Thank you Heatwave. I put my floor jack right there where the receiver frame is mounted to the frame, making sure there is no strain on anything else. You will need around a quart of fluid for the front everything. The knuckles don't take much but the axle diff takes around 2/3 of a qt. I got one of the ml measuring cups from my chemical supplier and use it to measure increments now. .6ml is so easy to measure on it instead of .63 qts. collie

 

[SpudHauler]

Heatwave are you thinking like I was thinking? Can't quit see the jack stands! ha ha ha

Even a Nascar jack failed this last weekend.

Just a friendly reminder, Safety is always important!

 

[Mark.Sibole]

IMO always use jack stands or at least put the tires under the machine so it id does fall somethingthere to support it fo your feet or legs dont get squashed

 

[Heatwave]

For objects suspended only by jacks, the force and speed of gravity quadruples.

 

[bordercollie]

Yea, My jack stands were under the 4 wheeler. Normally use them and would recommend everyone to have a pair and use 'em.

 

[OrangeBuggy]

Nice write-up and pictures bordercollie. What I was wondering about is if your cv boot guards are the steel ones that Kubota sells? The plastic ones that came on mine (RTV x1100c) are pretty lame. They look like they cover a much bigger area.
Thanks, OrangeBuggy

 

[bczoom]

What I was wondering about is if your cv boot guards are the steel ones that Kubota sells?

Those are "Peanuts Stick Stoppers". They're made by a member of the forum who goes by Peanut. There's a ton of us that have/love them. There's a few threads on the subject. Contact Peanut (Tommy) if you want some.

 

[bordercollie]

Thanks Orange Buggy, Like Zoom said, those are made by our Peanut. The paint he uses is great too. In the picture, those have somewhere around 1900 hrs of use in fields etc. I think that is right because I put them on after I got my 2011 900. I only used the vertical piece that you see but he makes them with an under piece also. collie

edit http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14120&highlight=stickstoppers