Got the Blizzard plow- now where's the snow?

T

Tinker Taylor

Member
Thanks for the advice and pictures posted in this forum. My dealer (Reardon Briggs in NY) did a very clean installation at the same time as the 50 hour service. Could not be much happier with the plow...I would have preferred if the variable valve controlling the plow drop speed did not fall off in my hand when I tried to slow down the karate chop drop. But this can be fixed in the spring.</p>


Unfortunately the plow and the need for much shifting between forward and reverse has brought to the fore the commonly mentioned problem with the adjustment of the HST. I was hoping that the dealer tech would adjust this problem away in the 50 hr service, but it actually got worse. I am warming this sucker up for 20 minutes (and a warm transmission made a big difference BEFORE the service), but the slightest slope- especially in combination with any load on the plow (like when it trips) leads to an extended dance with the pressure relief knob, the shifter, the brake, the hand throttle (lower revs back to idle), the steering (left right left etc.) before a firm tug on the shifter will pull it out of gear. Obviously I am worried that pulling too hard on the shifter will break something in the linkage eventually- especially if someone else is using the machine.</p>


Turning off the motor relieves the HST pressure almost immediately and the shifter then glides out of gear the way it should.</p>


Clearly, after reading everything I can find on the forums, I can see it is an adjustment problem- coupled with a design that is sensitive to being set up just right. I am very happy with my dealer and I am sure that they will get it fixed, but it is a annoying problem in the meantime.</p>
 
Here's how we did the plow control. Works great. Next I need some front work lights up high because the headlights are a drag reflecting off the plow.</p>
 
[quote user="Tinker Taylor"] </p>


Turning off the motor relieves the HST pressure almost immediately and the shifter then glides out of gear the way it should.</p>


[/quote]</p>


Have you tried (or had your dealer) adjust your unit for "CREEP". I was having all kinds of problems with the @#&^## shifter until I did this on mine. I could not shift out of gear without shutting down the engine and then it would slip right out of gear...same as you. Since doing the creep adj, my "stuck in gear" syndrome is all but eliminated.. I still hate that shifter for snow plowing applications .....</p>


</p>
 
I forwarded the dealer a short version of one of the posts about creep and the HST to which you and Matt contributed. They should take care of it. If not, was this easy enough to do yourself? I have jack but no jack stands yet- (I know not to go under without solid support). It is a great plow though- and I thank you for your advice.</p>
 
[quote user="Tinker Taylor"]was this easy enough to do yourself?[/quote]</p>


</p>


If your RTV is still under warranty, have dealer do it. It was an easy adjustment however. Just get the rear wheels elevated off the ground and put your shifter in H and your other in 2wd. Rev engine to full throttle using the throttle cable link at the injector (NOT THE PEDAL). The rear wheels should not spin. If they do adjust the link going to the control valve at the top of the hydro unit until the wheels do not spin with engine at full throttle. Mine was quite a bit out so it took a while for me to get the adjustment, but it was well worth the effort. There are lock nuts on the link that once loosened allow you to extend or shorten the link which allows you to dial in this adjustment.</p>


And having the transmission fluid warm helps too. I think Kubota sells a transmission heater in addition to the block heater which would help. I think ONFOOT has one on his YUKON equipped machine.</p>
 
[quote user="Kubota Kanook"]And having the transmission fluid warm helps too. I think Kubota sells a transmission heater in addition to the block heater which would help.[/quote]</p>


Do a search on the forum for block heater. We've found a few that work very nicely.</p>


</p>


</p>
 
[quote user="Tinker Taylor"](I know not to go under without solid support). [/quote]</p>


By the way...You do not get under the machine for the creep adj. Just jack the rear and raise the dump box. Everything is done from the top of the engine/transmission.</p>
 
Shows you what I know. I think I will need more detailed instructions before I make a mess of something, but it sounds very doable. I found several references to photos in various posts, but could not find photos of the parts to be wrenched.</p>
 
Kanook, I have a hand throttle so I should be able to use that to test for creep.</p>


Is all the information on the "creep" adjustment in the RTV shop manual? I was thinking I should get one and this would be an immediate use. My RTV has been out of warranty for a few months.</p>
 
[quote user="Tinker Taylor"] I have a hand throttle so I should be able to use that to test for creep.[/quote]</p>


Absolutely. Just get those rear wheels elevated and make sure it is in 'H' and 2 wheel drive and the hand brake dis-engagedyou're off to the races. Hand throttle will wok fine for the test if you prefer it that way. Only afew months off warranty..maybe you could get the dealer to do it as a good will gesture. .....BUT it really is an easy thing to do....</p>


I have a copy of the shop manual and I can find no mention in it anywhere for this check/adjustment.</p>


Let us know how you make out or need more info...</p>
 
[quote user="Kubota Kanook"]</p>


And having the transmission fluid warm helps too. I think Kubota sells a transmission heater in addition to the block heater which would help. I think ONFOOT has one on his YUKON equipped machine.</p>
<div style="clear: both;"></div>


[/quote]</p>


Just to confirm, I do have a heater for my transmission. I also have a heated battery blanket. Have had absolutely no problems starting in any temps--the lowest I have so far had her running being about -30F.</p>


</p>


</p>
 
[quote user="Tinker Taylor"]</p>


Shows you what I know. I think I will need more detailed instructions before I make a mess of something, but it sounds very doable. I found several references to photos in various posts, but could not find photos of the parts to be wrenched.</p>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>


[/quote]</p>


Here's a picture of the link that does the adjustment . Arrow points to the link which has lock nuts at both ends. Just loosen lock nuts and the link rod can be turned to either lengthen or shorten the distance to the servo lever. If you have forward creep, lengthen the connection until the wheel creep ceases and continue until creep starts in the reverse direction. Then back off in the forward direction until forward creep starts again while counting the turns. Center the length between the two extremes and lock in place. This made a world of difference on my RTV. Make sure the engine is at full throttle and the shifter is in H positionand of course the rear wheels jacked of the ground and in 2 wheel drive.</p>
 
KK - What is all that brown crap on your engine? You have squirrels living in there? You've got more tinder there than my woods.</p>


Pardon the interuption. Back to the subject at hand...</p>


</p>
 
[quote user="bczoom"]</p>


KK - What is all that brown crap on your engine? You have squirrels living in there? You've got more tinder there than my woods.</p>


Pardon the interuption. Back to the subject at hand...</p>


</p>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>


[/quote]</p>


Just a little organic material tossed in to soften the effect of all that cold steel and aluminum...Got a pic of the little Kubota Kritter however...</p>
 
KK</p>


Good directions and pic on the "creeping" adjustment.</p>


Keifer, a RTV wannabe</p>
 
Thanks for the picture. Finally had some time to jack up the rear wheels and test for creep: even at fairly high throttle in H I saw the wheels barely try to move. So this adjustment seems OK. However there is definitely tension in the transmission, even after stomping on the brake, waiting, pulling the HST dump knob and waiting some more. As an experiment I turned the motor off a couple of times...you could feel and hear the transmission relax and then the knob would slide right out gear. Interestingly it had no trouble shifting while the rear wheels were not in contact with terra firma. From High, Low, Reverse, it did not matter. I think that the HST release at the very least is not working at all. Tomorrow I will call my dealer again and see if what he thinks. Separately I can confirm for anyone who has not tried the power hitch feature on the Blizzard plows that it works great. Exactly as advertised. Really easy to mount and dismount the plow so no reason to carry it all through the woods when doing chainsaw work.</p>


</p>


</p>


</p>
 
[quote user="Tinker Taylor"]even at fairly high throttle in H I saw the wheels barely try to move. So this adjustment seems OK. However there is definitely tension in the transmission[/quote]</p>


Tinker T...........At full throttle there should be no indication of wheels turning. If you saw the wheels barely try to move at "fairly high throttle" then thisis a problem you need to correct. Just lengthening that rod (which will move the arm in the reverse direction will do it). The reason it shifts easily if you have the wheels up off the ground is there is no torque build up in the drive train. as the wheels can turn freelyAt any rate I am curious what the dealer will have to say....Also there is a dump valve check/adjustment mentioned by "MATT" which could also be a source of your problem. I requested directions on doing the dump valve adj but never got a response.</p>


That plow quick hitch is really nifty as you say.</p>


Keep us up-dated</p>
 
My dealer's service tech agrees that there is a problem with both the creep adjustment and the dump valve. They are picking it up to make the adjustments in the shop on Monday. They think Kubota will pick up the tab under warranty.</p>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top