Electrical Updates

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Armyaviatr

Active member
I have been giving a lot of thought to some electrical updates to my Kubota RTV-X1100. One update I did almost a year ago that I am really pleased with was the removal of the 12v plug and replacing it with this:
https://www.amazon.com/YonHan-Charg...0-4c57-9c6a-7ad0ce943623&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi
The reason for replacing it was it added a volt meter to the instrumentation and everything I would plug into that socket would ultimately be for 5v USB. So why keep a plug I would never use? A benefit that I learned throughout the year was that when energizing the glow plugs, I will note the voltage on the volt meter, when I see a tenth of a volt increase on the meter I know the glow plugs have reached their maximum heat value. After I see that slight increase in voltage I turn the key to start and the engine fires right up. This hasn't failed me in the year I have been using this technique. I was surprised it worked even when the temp was -10 below zero.
 
I am also going to do the dome light upgrade. However I am considering using a magnetic switch. I am waiting on parts to play with it and will update this if I can figure it out. I am concerned that a bump would cause the switch to momentarily open up.
 
Armyaviatr said:
The other thing I want to do is to add a light so I can see the gear selector for easier shifting when driving in the dark. Here is the only reasonably priced light that I am considering:
I did find one from an aircraft supplier but it was very expensive.
Click to expand...
I hope you get a commission on these… I’ve ordered them to use for “post lights” for some instrumentation on my compactor/roller.
THANKS for the heads-up on them!
 
Armyaviatr said:
I have been giving a lot of thought to some electrical updates to my Kubota RTV-X1100. One update I did almost a year ago that I am really pleased with was the removal of the 12v plug and replacing it with this:
https://www.amazon.com/YonHan-Charg...0-4c57-9c6a-7ad0ce943623&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi
The reason for replacing it was it added a volt meter to the instrumentation and everything I would plug into that socket would ultimately be for 5v USB. So why keep a plug I would never use? A benefit that I learned throughout the year was that when energizing the glow plugs, I will note the voltage on the volt meter, when I see a tenth of a volt increase on the meter I know the glow plugs have reached their maximum heat value. After I see that slight increase in voltage I turn the key to start and the engine fires right up. This hasn't failed me in the year I have been using this technique. I was surprised it worked even when the temp was -10 below zero.
Click to expand...
I love this device - especially the volt meter! Unfortunately I use that port for plugging in my hazard light in the winter and portable search light for looking for downed power lines and trees. Maybe I can have both - will look into it. Thanks for the idea :)
 
Armyaviatr said:
I have been giving a lot of thought to some electrical updates to my Kubota RTV-X1100. One update I did almost a year ago that I am really pleased with was the removal of the 12v plug and replacing it with this:
https://www.amazon.com/YonHan-Charg...0-4c57-9c6a-7ad0ce943623&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi
The reason for replacing it was it added a volt meter to the instrumentation and everything I would plug into that socket would ultimately be for 5v USB. So why keep a plug I would never use? A benefit that I learned throughout the year was that when energizing the glow plugs, I will note the voltage on the volt meter, when I see a tenth of a volt increase on the meter I know the glow plugs have reached their maximum heat value. After I see that slight increase in voltage I turn the key to start and the engine fires right up. This hasn't failed me in the year I have been using this technique. I was surprised it worked even when the temp was -10 below zero.
Click to expand...
I just read the description of this device and it looks like the volt display is on all the time since the 12 volt receptacle is "hot" regardless of the key position. It won't draw much, but I am thinking that this could be somewhat of a problem?
 
BiffNH said:
I love this device - especially the volt meter! Unfortunately I use that port for plugging in my hazard light in the winter and portable search light for looking for downed power lines and trees. Maybe I can have both - will look into it. Thanks for the idea :)
Click to expand...
I really enjoy this forum. I have learned alot and wanted to give back with some of my mods. I did have to change the wiring when I put this in. If I remember this plug is hot all the time. So I made a jumper and pulled electricity from the ignition switch to power this. I used a volt meter and found a lead that only has power with the key on. In your case all you would have to do is share the ground. That and an extra hole and you are set.
 
BiffNH said:
I just read the description of this device and it looks like the volt display is on all the time since the 12 volt receptacle is "hot" regardless of the key position. It won't draw much, but I am thinking that this could be somewhat of a problem?
Click to expand...
We must have been typing at the same time.
 
There are a few "always hot" circuits in there as well as ignition on circuits. I ended up wiring the radio to an always on circuit so I could have the radio on while working with the engine not running and the hour meter ticking away! I wired in a toggle switch in the switch plate that turns the radio on and off and it has a blue light when on. The radio has a built-in voltage monitor that will shut the radio on if the voltage drops below something like 10.8 volts. Nice feature.
I'll study the dash board to see if I can find a place to out the USB & voltage monitor you suggested.
 
Since I currently live in town and my X1100 has to live outside and after my dealer told me the number of x1100's produced in 2014 that are reported as stolen I initially told myself that locking the doors was the best way to secure my RTV from being stolen. Then my whole world was shattered when I found out that the door and ignition keys are all the same. After pondering this and while browsing Amazon for a solution I decided this was my best option:
A remote-controlled solenoid. I wired this through the main lead going from the battery to the starter. When I tested it out, I realized there was residual voltage not being cut off by the solenoid. With the solenoid de energized when you try to start it the starter solenoid just clicks. I am hoping that would be enough to deter a theft. The other way would be to have the solenoid disconnect the ground cable. does anyone have thoughts on this? Should I change to the ground? Thanks.
 
We live in the country on 150 acres and our RTV stays under our carport between our trucks at night. I installed a on/off toggle switch in the glovebox and wired it into the ignition switch. When we are done with it we pull the key and flip the switch off and close the glovebox. The motor will still turn over but will not start without the toggle switch in the on position. The switch is mounted high and on the side inside so you can't see it if you open the box. I figure if someone walks up and sticks a RTV or B series key in it and tries to start it and it doesn't fire right off they won't stick around long enough to try and find out why. By then the cameras will have woke us up.

Been thinking about adding one to my tractor since it is parked under an RV cover.
 
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After plowing last night I can say that there two things I have done that are wonderful additions to the electrical system. One Is the intermittent wiper - And the other is the backup light. The dome light door jamb switch is great and having the radio on a hot switch are nice improvements, but the wiper and backup light made plowing so much easier.
 
Hunter11 said:
We live in the country on 150 acres and our RTV stays under our carport between our trucks at night. I installed a on/off toggle switch in the glovebox and wired it into the ignition switch. When we are done with it we pull the key and flip the switch off and close the glovebox. The motor will still turn over but will not start without the toggle switch in the on position. The switch is mounted high and on the side inside so you can't see it if you open the box. I figure if someone walks up and sticks a RTV or B series key in it and tries to start it and it doesn't fire right off they won't stick around long enough to try and find out why. By then the cameras will have woke us up.

Been thinking about adding one to my tractor since it is parked under an RV cover.
Click to expand...
I have 2 Mustangs (1969 & 70) I use the same thing on them, Flip the SW and it Ain't gonna Crank no Way!! Hide it some where and your Good!!
 
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So I finally found the time to install the gear selector light and the dome light. I ran my dome grounding wire the long way which required me to completely remove the interior. I also tried to use the logic module listed above, however I believe my module is bad. I am waiting on technical help from the seller or a replacement. Here is a picture of the gear selector light in action, it is tied into the light switch.
1674778795563.jpeg
1674778732736.jpeg
 
While I can do the shifting by feel, after a few hours of plowing I sometimes find that I don't always shift fully into L. A light would help so I am thinking that your idea would be a good project that doesn't cost much. I haven't yet studied how the dash board is put together so I am curious how you were able to get in behind to fasten the unit and run the wires. I think I will tie it into any switched line that is near there. Any hints on how you dealt with getting into the dash will be appreciated. Thanks
 
my steering wheel comes off very easily, so I removed the upper and lower dash. Taking the steering wheel off is initially difficult, but once off I coat the shaft with never seize and subsequent removals are a breeze. I am thinking that you could probably do it by just removing the lower covering for the dash and maybe taking the screws out of the upper so you can move it a little.
 
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The lamp arrived this afternoon so I installed it. I was able to get it in by taking the bottom section off and loosening the top as you suggested. I tried to remove the steering wheel, but it didn't want to come - I was able to take the steering wheel off my X900 with no problem, but this one did not want to come! I found an unused switched hot line below the steering shaft and the ground was just a bolt.

While I really don't need a light for the gear selector, it was a fun project.
 

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