I was wondering if anyone who has an 1100 could tell me how high the bottom of the doors are off the ground when opened. The reason I am asking is I'm going to buy a small trailer to haul it between farms, and I was wondering if I should get a trailer with sides or not, so I can open the doors.I have a RTV 900 without a cab, but I am going to trade up to an 1100 probably next year. The tralier shop can custom build what ever I want, so I would like to have sides, but I would also like to be able to get out! Any suggestions would be appreciated.</p>
Door Height on RTV 1100
- Thread starter purdybass
- Start date
My RTV 1100 is parked in a level garage right now with worksite tires at 20 psi. I went down and measured. When first opened, the bottom of the driver's door is around 16.5" off the floor. But when fully opened (around 38" from of the outside of the body) it is around 19.5" off the floor. This is because the line connecting the center of the hinges is "swept back". I'm not sure what you're trying to do, or what the trailer has to do with it. The 1100 cab is full of curves and angles. Maybe you should go see one to measure for yourself.</p>
Write more. We're always here, ready to help.</p>
Write more. We're always here, ready to help.</p>
[quote user="purdybass"]</p>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">The tralier shop can custom build what ever I want, so I would like to have sides,</span>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>
[/quote]</p>
Might be able to custom build you one, with a section that " swings" out to allow for the doors.</p>
OR, get 'em to just not built the rail up so high on a certain section ~~~~ Just a suggestion !!!!</p>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><font color="#ff0000"> <font face="JohnHancock">~~~~~~ Two Guns ~~~~~~</font></font></span></p>
</p>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">The tralier shop can custom build what ever I want, so I would like to have sides,</span>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>
[/quote]</p>
Might be able to custom build you one, with a section that " swings" out to allow for the doors.</p>
OR, get 'em to just not built the rail up so high on a certain section ~~~~ Just a suggestion !!!!</p>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><font color="#ff0000"> <font face="JohnHancock">~~~~~~ Two Guns ~~~~~~</font></font></span></p>
</p>
I have a 18' heavy duty trailer that I haul my skidsteer on, but I was wanting somthing smaller and easier to get around to haul the RTV on. I had a 6x12 a few years ago, and loved it, but I sold it when I bought the 18 footer. I didn't think I needed two trailers, but I've sinced learned you can't have too many trailers! I was thinking about going with a 6x12 tilt, or maybe a 7x12 tilt,to give me some more room,but I was concerned if I traded for an 1100 that I couldn't open the doors once it was on the trailer. </p>
If anyone hauls there 1100 on a smaller trailer like I am considering, I would love to hear what size you use, or any suggestions on a good trailer.</p>
</p>
Thanks,</p>
Purdybass</p>
If anyone hauls there 1100 on a smaller trailer like I am considering, I would love to hear what size you use, or any suggestions on a good trailer.</p>
</p>
Thanks,</p>
Purdybass</p>
I don't have an 1100 or cab on my 900 but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.</p>
Using River's measurements of 16.5", and if I recall correctly, a standard size of 12" for trailer bed rails, I'd say that you'll be fine on the doors.</p>
As for the trailer itself:</p>
- Most 6x12' trailers have a 2990 (3000#) rating. This is the max weight in most states you can tow without having brakes on the trailer. The RTV+trailer will be over that 3000# so you'll want to look at a trailer with a 4000#+ rating.</p>
- In the 6x12' trailer size, my preference is ramps over a tilt-bed. There's just a lot better control.</p>
- Most of my trailers are custom or regionally built but in a national brand, I like Big Tex trailers.</p>
- Not sure abot Missouri but around here, it's an implied rule that you NEVER get rid of a trailer unless you're replacing it.
(Mrs. Zoom thinks I'm nuts, but I have 7 trailers plus a few smaller wagons.) I too have a 18' but I'm really glad I didn't part with my 6x12 as it's the size I most often need.</p>
</p>
Using River's measurements of 16.5", and if I recall correctly, a standard size of 12" for trailer bed rails, I'd say that you'll be fine on the doors.</p>
As for the trailer itself:</p>
- Most 6x12' trailers have a 2990 (3000#) rating. This is the max weight in most states you can tow without having brakes on the trailer. The RTV+trailer will be over that 3000# so you'll want to look at a trailer with a 4000#+ rating.</p>
- In the 6x12' trailer size, my preference is ramps over a tilt-bed. There's just a lot better control.</p>
- Most of my trailers are custom or regionally built but in a national brand, I like Big Tex trailers.</p>
- Not sure abot Missouri but around here, it's an implied rule that you NEVER get rid of a trailer unless you're replacing it.
(Mrs. Zoom thinks I'm nuts, but I have 7 trailers plus a few smaller wagons.) I too have a 18' but I'm really glad I didn't part with my 6x12 as it's the size I most often need.</p></p>
I agree with bczoom. I just measured again, and with the door just opened 6" (at the back) you have 16.0" clearance at the front of the door bottom, and 16.5 at the back. As you open the door further, this increases, a little at the front, and alot at the back. Again, this is with W/S tires. Taller tires will raise the clearance. Keep the rails a little under 16" and you should be fine no matter narrow the trailer. </p>
Doug</p>
Doug</p>