Crap Sums it Up

My goal is to return this to its original state...it ran with the temp gauge at 1/3, just not with a load.

The plan...
Reassemble with a new head gasket. If there are no combustion gases pressurizing the cooling system fill with antifreeze, run without a thermostat and cross my fingers.

One option...
Messicks will supply a brand new engine with a 2 year warranty for $3700. They are close enough for me to pickup.
 
just an idea. might want to search for a head gasket with better sealing quality or more robust construction than OEM. if available
 
aurthuritis said:
just an idea. might want to search for a head gasket with better sealing quality or more robust construction than OEM. if available
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With gasoline engines 2 head gaskets stacked was a common practice to lower the compression but with a diesel I am not so sure.

That would be an expensive experiment at $80 a pop.
 
UPDATE...been distracted with other things the past two weeks.

After thoroughly cleaning the head I discovered a crack above cylinder 2, between the injector port and valve.

Also checked the head with a machinist straight edge and found the head to be warped anyway so its junk for sure.

Checked the engine deck and found it to be flat to .05mm about .002.

The cylinders bores look ok, a narrow band of scoring about 1/2" wide on cylinder 3.

Even with the hairline crack between coolant ports and a cylinder 2 head bolt I will attempt to save this engine with a fresh head.

In the 70s when rebuilding hi performance engines it was a common practice to paint the head gaskets with high temp manifold paint, to improve the seal. K&W makes a copper paint for this purpose.

Does anyone think this is worth a shot?
 
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i have painted head gaskets with great success. as far as purchasing a head, i think you are wasting time and money. why not just buy a used engine? heck get an 1105 out of an 1100 and make a hybrid.

i want to add" the above is just my opinion" and a cup of coffee costs more than a dozen opinions. have fun and please share your experience.
 
aurthuritis said:
i have painted head gaskets with great success. as far as purchasing a head, i think you are wasting time and money. why not just buy a used engine? heck get an 1105 out of an 1100 and make a hybrid.

i want to add" the above is just my opinion" and a cup of coffee costs more than a dozen opinions. have fun and please share your experience.
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Thanks! Opinions are appreciated.

I have researched engine swap possibilities. There is a slight length difference between the d902 and 1105. I have not found a diagram with sufficient clarity, it appears to be where the engine mates with the transmission.

Searched online for someone who has made the swap but nada.

Another issue is being assured that a donor engine is any good. This engine ran great until it was stressed by a load, then it went south from there.

A d902 was recently listed, the ebay seller posted a video of it running. I contacted them for details like engine hours etc. It was from an RTV900 that was parted out, he did not know the hours. Even with a guarantee adding the return shipping costs to the purchase price, if it had to be returned, would be close to the cost of a new engine from Kubota.

Contacted a few others, none will ship to a residential address.

There is a dealer in Ohio who sells remanufactured d902's for $3K BUT that price is with a core credit. If they find that the core is not usable I am out the core credit and the shipping charge as well.

Sent them a picture of my engine, they doubted the internals would have any value.

Ran a Craigslist listing looking for a donor engine, no response.

Please...if you have any leads on a donor engine, guaranteed to be a good one, send them my way
 
A rebuilt would probably be in the 3,000 range you mentioned and a brand new one with 2 year warranty for 700 more? If me, I'd take the brand new unadulterated engine with a 2 year warranty over the redone one... That being said the transmission would need to be in great condition and the front end as well in either case, but as far as 3 grand vs 3700, the 2 year warranty would make up the difference-.. used is used.. only my truly humble opinion ... Good luck deciding though :tiphat: collie
 
bordercollie said:
A rebuilt would probably be in the 3,000 range you mentioned and a brand new one with 2 year warranty for 700 more? If me, I'd take the brand new unadulterated engine with a 2 year warranty over the redone one... That being said the transmission would need to be in great condition and the front end as well in either case, but as far as 3 grand vs 3700, the 2 year warranty would make up the difference-.. used is used.. only my truly humble opinion ... Good luck deciding though :tiphat: collie
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Agree^^^

Actually a rebuilt is $4K. Applying a $1K core credit (after tear down inspection) its $3K.

Kubota RTV used parts are crazy expensive IMO.

One highly rated ebayer lists a number of heads (902 pulls not rebuilt) for $750 yet another lists used but reconditioned for $800.

Who would bother with an uninspected pull with a $50 difference? $925 buys a brand new OEM head complete!

Seems that sellers need a reality check.

A new bare block is available through Kubota for $550 yet used untested blocks, which will likely require machine work, are $450.

Kubota's $3700 price is for a dyno tested assembly with a 2 year warranty. Looks like a $1k premium for this engine, compared to the individual engine components.

If my RTV was for business or farm use a new factory engine would be the choice. Since it is not and I have the time, plus enjoy wrenching while learning something new in the process, I will continue the present route.

Maybe alter the course if a used engine surfaced that I can see and hear run.
 
550 dollars for a new block!! you know you have a running engine so that helps you know that the internals are probably ok. you could buy some plastigauge and check the crank in the old block and inspect all journals before you make the decision to order the block. and while it is a pile of parts you can inspect the rods and pistons wrist pins etc. send the head off and see if it can be milled and checked for cracks. then once all that is done you can pencil it out and if it doesn't work out all you have is a pile of parts. and can order a long block.
 
aurthuritis said:
550 dollars for a new block!! you know you have a running engine so that helps you know that the internals are probably ok. you could buy some plastigauge and check the crank in the old block and inspect all journals before you make the decision to order the block. and while it is a pile of parts you can inspect the rods and pistons wrist pins etc. send the head off and see if it can be milled and checked for cracks. then once all that is done you can pencil it out and if it doesn't work out all you have is a pile of parts. and can order a long block.
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^^^AGREE^^^
The head has a visible crack and is warped so its a door stop.

I will bolt on a replacement head and test. If it does not run hot or loose coolant it will remain as is.

Otherwise I will dismantle this engine and transfer what is salvageable to a new OEM block.

More updates as they become available.
 
that sounds like a good plan. i will be surprised if the engine will hold up though, but am looking forward to see the results. i hope it works
 
Your plan makes sense. You will need a new head in any case so as long as you don't overheat it and warp it you should be able to use it on a new block.

I'd suggest new bearings and rings when you transfer the crank and pistons to a new block. A bit more cost but overheating as your engine seems to have done can do bad things to rings and bearings.

Other than that I don't see a down side to transferring your parts to a new block.
 
Wish I had seen that list of engines a couple years ago. I had a Mitsubushi K3D rebuilt at a cost of over $4000. The rebuild kit for that engine was more than he is selling complete engines for. Rebuilt it still does not start as easy as my Kubota.
 
Another Update

Installed a new Kubota OEM head assembly, head bolts and valve stem caps.

The head gasket was sprayed with K&W Copper Coat, just the side which contacts the block. The head gasket is aftermarket, thicker than the previous gasket.

Chased all the threads with a bottom tap, oiled the bolts per the WS manual.Torqued the head bolts in 3 stages 10, 20 then 30 ft. lbs. All went well with that.

The only issue...the hex plug Kubota installed in the water sensor port was stuck fast. Resorted to an easy out which started to work until it snapped off. The plug backed out enough so Vice Grips could finished the job.

I hope it likes the Chinese fuel injectors, the OEM versions are about 3Xs more expensive.

Let it idle until the water temp was 1/3 scale then headed up the hill as a test. This is the same route where it boiled over, 30 days ago.

There is a noticeable increase in power, made it to the mail box in H gear at 15mph with power to spare. Water temp increased to 1/2 scale at the top, dropped quickly to 1/3 on the return trip.

No change in the oil or coolant level after cool down.

The question now...how long will it live with that crack in the block?
 
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there is a product called blue devil available at the parts house. it cost about $40. add it to the radiator and it should fix your problem. I have seen it work when someone can,t afford to repair a head gasket or cracked head. not exactly a proper fix but it might work.
 
muffler man said:
there is a product called blue devil available at the parts house. it cost about $40. add it to the radiator and it should fix your problem. I have seen it work when someone can,t afford to repair a head gasket or cracked head. not exactly a proper fix but it might work.
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If this repair fails at some point I may try this. For now its working like a new RTV.:dancing:
 
sometimes we don't know just how reliable an engine or transmission is until it is tested to limit. could be more cracked engines out there but we just don't know about it,and how many reusable engines are thrown away just because no one tried to make it work. i remember some farm tractors that had a weak link in the powertrain and would throw a rod through the engine block. it was common practice to recover the piece of broken block and weld it back in after the rod was replaced. the tractor was put back into service and run many more years.

i suspect the thicker head gasket may have lowered your compression a tick. this is a good thing as long as it doesn't affect starting and performance but probably not good for the emissions. it could lower the combustion temps as well all good for you.
 
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