<SPAN style="COLOR: black"><FONT size=3><FONT face="Times New Roman">Hi Guys-<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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></FONT></FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="COLOR: black"><FONT size=3><FONT face="Times New Roman">I've had one of these "coast valves" for about one year now, and I couldn't be happier. Right after I bought my RTV, I had both my side and my wife's side of the family over at our house, and I was of course proud of my new RTV, so I was letting some of them drive it, even after explaining to all of them about "how to drive it" all of them complained about how they didn't like the braking. I was of course disappointed of not having their approval. Not long after that, I had heard of this valve throughmy dealer, so I got one and installed it. I was very pleased with the operation, and now, almost one year later, I couldn't be happier. I can now let anyone drive it, or let someone borrow it, without the need to explain "how" to drive it. <o
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<FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>For the people wanting the technical information…..I was of course interested in how this valve worked as I am somewhat of a gear head (or at least I think I am). I originally got an email address (sfsspecialties@gmail.com) for these guys and that is how I got my valve, but I did end up talking to the guy (tim) that designed and machines these valves. He was explaining to me that the coast valve is quite a bit different than the original valve. He told me that the coast valve is based off of a "balanced spool" principal which unloads the oil pressure created during braking, which is different than how the original relief valve works. He was telling me that he has received a few messages on ebay from people that said they just adjusted their relief valve so the machine would coast and they didn't think buying this valve was necessary, but he explained to me that if you just adjust the original relief valve to a pressure that allows it to coast, that the pressure can fluctuate to pressures lower than the charge pressure, and that can cause the hydrostatic motor to "cavitate" and after that happens for awhile, you can ruin your hydro motor. If I understand him correctly, it is like getting air into the system. But by using the unload valve in a balanced spool system, the pressure is constant throughout the flow range (low to high wheel speed). The coast valve also has an orphased hole machined in it to allow a metered amount of oil to leak by so that it is easier to change gears (like when you want to shift down for more power, but the gear shift is "stuck") This guy seems pretty smart, and he wasn't even giving me a sales pitch, I had already bought the valve, I was just wondering how it worked. </FONT></P>
<FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>He has an RTV that he has done multiple things to (increased horsepower, aluminum wheels with oversized tires, full cab w/ stereo, etc) but he was telling me that he is currently working on a kit to increase travel speed. </FONT></P>
<FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Alright, hopefully that answers some of your questions about how the valve works. I highly recommend the valve.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>He was going to send me an email when he gets something going on this kit to increase the speed. <SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"></SPAN>I’ll keep you posted if I hear from them.</FONT></P>
<FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Greg</FONT></P>