Air Conditioning x1100c cycles off and on

HBTexas

HBTexas

Well-known member
Good day fellas,
It finally got hot enough in Texas I thought I would try out my x1100c Air conditioning .
It indeed blow cold . BUT It cycles on and off every 30 seconds or so . Is this like a auto air and giving me a sign that its low on freon ?
Or is it supposed to act like that ? its a 2014 and new this past fall to me .
Thanks in advance
 
I tried my A/C the other day. Didn't think it was working at all till wife found the a/c button. Once pushed cooler air came out. It did not cycle off every 30 seconds. When I had old cars low on coolant they would never get cool. Never heard of any A/C going off and on every 30 seconds. Good luck getting to the bottom of this one.
 
I would guess Pressure switch or low freon if it was an old pickup..
Comes on , blows cold.. then compressor kicks in and out , on and off..
I figure if its set to max cool would just stay running till your cab gets WAY to cold inside..
If its low on Freon than it must have leaked out somewhere ...... Hmmm
 
My experience has been when the system is low on refrigerant, it will frequently cycle. I used to use CoolShot or a similar product to recharge my 05 silverado which was about every 3 years. Or I am sure the Kubota dealer would run a vacuum test and fill...for a price. If its real low, it wont cycle or cool.
 
I also have a 2014 & live in Texas. Owned mine since new. I would check your charge. It is either under/over charged or the pressure switch. The A/C in the RTV will blow ice cold all day and keep you more than conformable even on the hottest of days when it is in proper working order.
 
Think I will drive it up to local auto shop friday and have them check it.
They should be able to service the a/c without messing anything up I would think .
My Kubota dealer is to far .
 
HB, Many years ago, my sweet Daddy bought one of those to charge the home a/c with. He saved us a lot of $ . The repairman had said our whole system was bad but all it was was the dryer, daddy discovered. I bought a little cheapo one to charge their car with . (it only had one hose with it and attached to can of Freon with the leak seal, I charged their car until they got another one. Sounds like you would have fun with that. :)
 
I did order the gage set from Amazon . And have been doing some reading and video watching to learn how to use it and diagnose the system. As I was searching I found a video of a guy with a f150 . . his compressor also kicking in and out,., WELL>> He had system set to defrost. Sooo As we all know defrost uses the A/C to remove moister from the cab..
GUESS WHAT .. Ive noticed since I have had my X1100c that the blend air switch really did nothing when turned..
So if wont go to Face mode or floor mode Just left and right face vent and DEFROST blowing up the windshield .
I had previously thought that would not bother me. It will keep the windshield cool . Blow strait up to the iner cab celing and Cold air falls on me..
Problem ::I think may be The system thinks its in DEFROST MODE .. So maybe my Blend switch is bad?? Hmmmm
 Mode Switch
• FACE
Air is blown from the face and side area air outlets.
• FACE + FEET
Air is blown from the face and feet air outlets.
• FEET
Air is blown from the feet air outlets
• FEET + DEFROSTER
Air is blown from the feet and defroster air outlets.
• DEFOROSTER
Air is blown from the defroster air outlets.

Looking at the service manual does not really give detail to test this switch . But does for the other switches. Hmm
I wonder if is a way to manually move the blend door to FULL FACE MODE ?

Best I can tell that switch comes in a whole assembly ... and its $ 866 K7731-63203 OMG !!!!!!!!!!! hope im wrong/
 
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I agree that the problem you are experiencing with the blend door/valve is not what is causing the compressor to cycle. The A/C compressor does not automatically turn on when you select defrost. You must turn the A/C compressor on with the on/off switch.

As for the blend door/valve issue, it is either a adjustment or blockage issue. The blend door is connected to the selection knob by either a cable or rod. With the motor off and moving the knob you should be able to hear the door moving as you select different settings. Another possibility is some debris is in the door/valve preventing it from moving. This could be caused by the cabin air filter being removed (instead of replaced) allowing unfiltered air to enter the air passages and blocking the door.
 
I will check that blend door / cable or rod . I do not hear anything moving when I turn the knob .
Cabin air filter is in place I just cleaned it when I got the machine as the new one was 70 some bux .
Must be a less expensive replacement filter but I have yet to locate it ..
Will update when I get the Gauges .
Thank you for al your input .
 
Would it be possible to remove the air filter and verify good operation of blend door with your hand or visually? That would confirm if your actuator needs replaced. And I would appreciate hearing what the gauges tell you. I am not familiar with AC specifics...just have some experiences.
 
I believe this is normal. My 2017 X1100C has been this way since new. Both my vehicles also cycle their AC pumps.
 
Took the lower Dash cover off today ., YEP, Cable was OFF for the air blend door. Fixed that ..
on the AC on off,.

Mork but maybe is normal ??? on/off

On to the AC ,.Today I also looked at the glass window on the dryer (bubbles visible) Service manual says (low freon?)
I hooked the Gauge to it read 20ish on low side .. 170 on high side with compressor kicked on.
Manual says
(Refrigerating Cycle Normal Operating)
Pressure
(LO Pressure Side) 22 to 28 psi

(HI Pressure Side) 185 to 241 psi

Purged hose and added 11-12 OZ of coolant :eek: got pressure up to 26-27 On Low side / 220 on High side .
No more bubbles in that window...
But compressor still kicking in and out 20 -30 sec on/ 15 sec off.
Have I over charged it ? air temp is today only 70 deg.. fingers crossed ............
 
I believe you found the source of your cycling and nice job on the blend door. Suggest you run it for a few days with AC on and let it circulate. If still cycling after that, you might check the pressure sensor relay if it has one. Sometimes they are integrated in the compressor.
 
I read its got the Pressure sensor up front , And also a thermistor in the condensor that prevents an evaporator from frosting.
Ive yet to find the source of my cycling,, It still cycles on and off , I think its more like every 15 seconds,.
Gonna be cool tomorrow. But will run it after the cool front and see what , if anything happens ,
 
HBTexas said:
Took the lower Dash cover off today ., YEP, Cable was OFF for the air blend door. Fixed that ..
on the AC on off,.

Mork but maybe is normal ??? on/off

On to the AC ,.Today I also looked at the glass window on the dryer (bubbles visible) Service manual says (low freon?)
I hooked the Gauge to it read 20ish on low side .. 170 on high side with compressor kicked on.
Manual says
(Refrigerating Cycle Normal Operating)
Pressure
(LO Pressure Side) 22 to 28 psi

(HI Pressure Side) 185 to 241 psi

Purged hose and added 11-12 OZ of coolant :eek: got pressure up to 26-27 On Low side / 220 on High side .
No more bubbles in that window...
But compressor still kicking in and out 20 -30 sec on/ 15 sec off.
Have I over charged it ? air temp is today only 70 deg.. fingers crossed ............
Click to expand...
My understanding is that the AC pump cycles the compressor clutch as per the design of it. It is controlled by a temperature sensor at the evaporator core. I know my machine has been doing this since new and never has it not blown cold air.
 
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Mork said:
My understanding is that the AC pump cycles the compressor clutch as per the design of it. It is controlled by a temperature sensor at the evaporator core. I know my machine has been doing this since new and never has it not blown cold air.
Click to expand...
So yours cycles on and off every 15 seconds . just seems like would be really hard on the clutch.
 
You are still cycling too quickly. Good thing is we know the pressure switch is still good and the cycling is because the high side Is getting too high.

First have you cleaned the condenser? From the back side of the condenser use compressed air (not so high as to damage the fins on the condenser) to blow out the condenser. If you blow from the front you will be trying to blow all the accumulated dirt/dust/crap thru the condenser, so blowing from the back side will force the stuff back out how it came in. Visually the condenser may look clean but until you start blowing it out, you can be surprised how much stuff is in there. Clogged up condenser is the number one problem I have with my B3030. I try to blow it out every time I mow (4ac with a finishing deck). At least every other time. Makes a big difference in the performance of the A/C in the tractor.

I also recommend cleaning the condenser with a condenser cleaner if dirty. This is a wet foam in a aerosol can. The foam fills in all the space between the condenser fins. When the foam expands it picks up the dirt and crap and pulls it out of the condenser fins. I have to do this to my tractor a couple times a season if I want to keep the A/C running at peak performance even with blowing the condenser out each time I mow.

If you have not cleaning the condenser, the clogged condenser could have been your problem all along based on the initial readings you got with your gauges.

Another possibility is air and/or moisture in the system. It sounds like you evacuated the system then recharged it. Did you pull a vacuum on the system before you recharged it? Using a vacuum pump before charging the system will pull all the air out. It will also remove moisture. If the system will not hold a vacuum then you have a leak somewhere. A vacuum pump is between $50~$75. Very hand to have and very useful with your new gauge set.
 
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