30 or 35 series?

[EDL]

Hello,

I am looking at the Mahindra tractors and would like some input from someone that has more experience with tractors in general.

I live in PA and have 15 acres to mow/bush hog. I also have a fairly substantial gravel/dirt driveway to take care of.

I initially was looking at the 6520 model but I have learned this model is no longer made. A pity considering the hydraulics were rated at 5100 lbs (according to the Mahindra website) and it also had a shuttle shift even with the 2WD model.

This will be my second tractor. I lived in Texas for a number of years (Air Force) and had an old David Brown 880 (40HP) with a 6 ft cutter. It needed a lot of work, but was ok for hogging the 5 acre field I had.

I have decided to go new on my next tractor as I want something that has no worn, broken parts or needs a lot of work to get in good shape.

As of now I think I have narrowed my choice to 2-3 Mahindra's but am looking for input.

The models I am interested in are:

6530 2WD and loader
6030 2WD or maybe 4WD and loader
5035 with loader

I have a couple of questions about these models. The 6030 2WD model is listed with a shuttle shift, but the 6530 2WD shows a standard tranny with no shuttle. Do the 2WD 30 series have shuttle or not?

Is 4WD really, really worth the extra cost? My main uses will be hogging the field which is sloped a little and using the loader and a box blade to completely re-do my driveway (and take care of it afterwards) and also for moving snow in the winter.

If I go 4WD the 6030 will be at my budget limit in terms of price, so will the 5035.

Is the extra 10-15HP if the 6030 or 6530 going to make a big difference? If I go with the 6030 or 6530 I'd like to swing a 7ft cutter. If the 5035 then a 6 footer at most.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Big Dog]

How long you been in PA? Strictly my opinion .......... If your gonna use this tractor during Winter months I highly recommend 4wd. I like 4 cylinders and synchro shift. Why can't you do 7 foot implement (sure you can) with the 5035 which is my pick? Hydro is impressive (and more than the others) for that size tractor.

BTW ....... Welcome to the forum!

 

[EDL]

Big Dog,

Been here for about 2.5 years. Been up here quite a few times during the winter prior to moving here (my wife is from here, so we visited family a few times over the years).

Actually, I'm more concerned with the 4wd for moving dirt and gravel and scraping the driveway than I am moving snow. Snow is relatively light compared to gravel and dirt. Our neighbor comes through on a 2wd JD with a rear blade and clears me out without a problem.

I also worry about getting it into mud. We have a creek down on the back of the property and about half an acre or so of that area can get quite muddy, and you can't tell it till it is too late. I got my David Brown stuck in the mud in Texas once and I really don't want to repeat that ordeal.

As for a 7 foot cutter on 43 PTO HP, if my experience in Texas is any indication, that would be a bit much. The David Brown was 40 HP at the engine, guessing it was probably 30-33 HP at the PTO. It would swing the 6 footer OK, but relatively heavy grass and weeds (coastal grass, very reedy stuff) called for poking along in 2nd gear low range or it bogged the tractor too much. The grass and weeds here in PA is a lot thicker (more rain). I think even the 6 footer on the 5035 might require some slowing down in the heavier stuff. Maybe I'm wrong though.

I wish they made the 5035 in a 60 HP model, that would be the stuff! I like the slightly smaller stature of the 5035, makes it a bit more useful around the yard and makes storing in the barn a little easier. I have a huge barn, about 10,000 square feet, but it was used as the storage area for an antique business before we bought the place. Oddly, there is only one door that I can get a tractor through, but it is height limited (something I need to consider). I could probably alter the door area to raise it, but that would require a lot of work (I'm hoping I can get the tractor with an underslung exhaust vs vertical).

The only things that I'm not crazy about the 5035 is lower HP and category 1 hitch. Seems just about every implement out there is cat 2.

I agree with you on the 4 cylinder. I would rather have a normally aspirated 4 cylinder than a turbo charged 3 cylinder. Dusty, dirty environments are not the best place for turbos.

 

[shvl73]

I'm running a 5' Woods cutter with 22+ pto hp. It does well. It can bog in real thick grass but mostly it just cruises through it. I think you'd do well with 43 pto hp and a 7' cutter.
The picture shows a spot where I have to go slow. It gets wet here and it is usually july before it is dry enough to get it mowed.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Mahindra has some pretty good tractors, you could have your dealer look for a 6520. I would think that they might be able to find one somewhere. If you are going to get a loader, don't waste your time even considering a 2wd tractor. 4wd helps out so much that sometimes I wonder why they even make 2wd machines anymore. IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, SET ON ANY TRACTOR BEFORE YOU PURCHASE IT. Mahindra has some good tractors, but they are not all the same when it comes to comfort and ergonomics. What is in a good location for one person is not always good for someone else. Be sure that all the controls, shifters etc are where you like them, if not, I would look at something else. Have you seen any of the tractors that you are considering in person? The 20 & 60 series tractors are very comfortable for me. I have not sat on the 30 or 35 series tractors.

Good luck

 

[Big Dog]

Mahindra has some good tractors, but they are not all the same when it comes to comfort and ergonomics. What is in a good location for one person is not always good for someone else. Be sure that all the controls, shifters etc are where you like them, if not, I would look at something else.

Good point ......... That's what made my mind up between a Mahindra and Kioti. The Kioti has more room but then I'm a big guy.

I wouldn't hesitate to put a 7 footer om my DK45s (38 PTO HP).

 

[Erik]

my 3510 has 28 or 29 PTO HP and it pulls a 6' brush hog with no problems - I see no reason why the 5035 would not handle a 7' mower.
If you don't need the sheer grunt of a 60 HP machine, the 4x4 is very nice, especially when mowing on slopes or uneven ground, and the slightly smaller footprint/stature is handy when working in trees or brush.
If you already have a bunch of cat2 implements, you have 3 routes you can go - put cat1 pins on the implements, convert the 3pt arms on the 5035 to cat 2, or go for the 30 series machine despite the lack of 4x4.

that said - I also looked at Kioti, but had the opposite result as Big Dog. The Mahindra was more comfortable and the seat felt more secure to me. Then again, I'm a little guy at 6'1" and 260#.

 

[Big Dog]

Then again, I'm a little guy at 6'1" and 260#.

Yep you are ..................

 

[DK35vince]

I agree with the others. 43 PTO HP should handle a 7' cutter.
I run a 6' brush mower on my 28 PTO HP tractor with no problem.

 

[EDL]

Well, done some more thinking and looking. Got a few price quotes.

Definitely going to go 4wd with industrial instead of ag tires. I know the ag's have more traction in snow and mud, but the industrials are tougher tires and I can run it over the grass with a lot less tear up. Only field work it will see is hogging the field so this shouldn't be an issue. The rest is boxblading the driveway, moving snow, that sort of thing.

The 6530 is out, price is too high with 4wd.

I've narrowed it down to the 5530 or maybe the 6030 depending on what kind of deal I can make. Both tractors have the same specs on the hydraulics.

I gave up on the 20 series as I can't seem to get a straight answer from the dealers. Some say it isn't made anymore, but some are advertising 2010 20 series, all Mahindra says is "limited availability", so go figure. Any of the dealers that say they have the 20 series in stock are too far away (like in other states).

One other question I have...what's the difference between the 00 and 30 series? They look identical other than the series number? The 00 series is also "limited availability".

 

[mahindra3535guy]

Well, I gotta say I love my 3535. Gets the job done for me on just about anything. Even made a little bet that I could lift my neighbors' Kubota on the back end and Deere on the front end...and won! Check out my YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hd3oigmYJ8c

 

[EDL]

Well, visited a Mahindra dealer and checked out a few models. I really like the location of the loader controls on the 30 series, very comfortable for my arms.

I can rest my elbow on the armrest and reach the control just right. Tried a 10 and 35 series and didn't like the loader controls at all, but the tilt steering and full platform are nice.

I think overall the 30 series is what I am looking for. Only one complaint on the 30 series for me. The steering wheel feels a bit low. I feel like I am laying forward to grip the steering wheel, but it isn't significant, just noticeable.

Only thing I'm not real sure about is the HP. Would 5 or 10 HP at the PTO make a really noticeable difference when bush hogging? I could go with any of the 30 series, 5530, 6030, or 6530 but if a few more HP really doesn't make much difference then I'd rather save the extra money for more implements (like a HD Woods cutter (vs medium duty), box blade and auger).

 

[Big Dog]

Get the 5530 and buy your HD cutter ..............

 

[Bindian]

Hello,

I am looking at the Mahindra tractors and would like some input from someone that has more experience with tractors in general.

I live in PA and have 15 acres to mow/bush hog. I also have a fairly substantial gravel/dirt driveway to take care of.

I initially was looking at the 6520 model but I have learned this model is no longer made. A pity considering the hydraulics were rated at 5100 lbs (according to the Mahindra website) and it also had a shuttle shift even with the 2WD model.

This will be my second tractor. I lived in Texas for a number of years (Air Force) and had an old David Brown 880 (40HP) with a 6 ft cutter. It needed a lot of work, but was ok for hogging the 5 acre field I had.

I have decided to go new on my next tractor as I want something that has no worn, broken parts or needs a lot of work to get in good shape.

As of now I think I have narrowed my choice to 2-3 Mahindra's but am looking for input.

The models I am interested in are:

6530 2WD and loader
6030 2WD or maybe 4WD and loader
5035 with loader

I have a couple of questions about these models. The 6030 2WD model is listed with a shuttle shift, but the 6530 2WD shows a standard tranny with no shuttle. Do the 2WD 30 series have shuttle or not?

Is 4WD really, really worth the extra cost? My main uses will be hogging the field which is sloped a little and using the loader and a box blade to completely re-do my driveway (and take care of it afterwards) and also for moving snow in the winter.

If I go 4WD the 6030 will be at my budget limit in terms of price, so will the 5035.

Is the extra 10-15HP if the 6030 or 6530 going to make a big difference? If I go with the 6030 or 6530 I'd like to swing a 7ft cutter. If the 5035 then a 6 footer at most.

Thanks for your input.

EDL,
The 6520 was reincarnated as the 7060. Same tractor with the new more emission controlled engine.
Like Brian said, you could find a 6520 if you really wanted one. I love mine. It is truly a Big RED Beast.
hugs, Brandi

 

[EDL]

Well, I'm pretty sure the 7060 will be out of my price range. The 30 series will do what I need it to do, so that's what I'm going to go for.

I looked at the specs for the 30 series and decided the 6030 is the best bang for the buck.

It looks like the only difference (besides price) between the 6030 and the 6530 is about 200 RPM at the engine. I did some calculations on the posted HP specs (both engine and PTO) and the 6530 looks like it only gets the 65HP rating because they rev it up just a tad higher and voila, 5 more HP (since HP = torque x RPM divided by 5252).

I'd really love to see the torque and HP curves for the two models, but the calculations are so close mathematically that I'm betting the 6030 and the 6530 have the same tuning. The only difference (if there really is one) would be the gearing for the PTO. The 6030 does its PTO work at 1969 engine RPM whereas the 6530 does it at 2059 RPM. If there really is no difference at all (since "540" RPM at the PTO isn't necessarily exact), then simply running the 6030 at the same slightly higher engine RPM will give the same performance as the 6530 for about $1700 less.

The 5530 is definitely tuned differently as the torque and HP ratings are far enough from the 6030 and 6530. Since all three use the same basic engine (152.4 Cu. in. 3-cylinder) the difference is probably less turbo boost on the 5530. Depending on how the turbo is set up (waste gated, electronically controlled, et al) it'd be possible to change the boost pressures and get just about whatever you want from it without much trouble.

So, unless I can find a dealer offering a fantastic price on a 7060, then the 6030 is what I'm shooting for.

 

[Bindian]

Well, I'm pretty sure the 7060 will be out of my price range. The 30 series will do what I need it to do, so that's what I'm going to go for.

I looked at the specs for the 30 series and decided the 6030 is the best bang for the buck.

It looks like the only difference (besides price) between the 6030 and the 6530 is about 200 RPM at the engine. I did some calculations on the posted HP specs (both engine and PTO) and the 6530 looks like it only gets the 65HP rating because they rev it up just a tad higher and voila, 5 more HP (since HP = torque x RPM divided by 5252).

I'd really love to see the torque and HP curves for the two models, but the calculations are so close mathematically that I'm betting the 6030 and the 6530 have the same tuning. The only difference (if there really is one) would be the gearing for the PTO. The 6030 does its PTO work at 1969 engine RPM whereas the 6530 does it at 2059 RPM. If there really is no difference at all (since "540" RPM at the PTO isn't necessarily exact), then simply running the 6030 at the same slightly higher engine RPM will give the same performance as the 6530 for about $1700 less.

The 5530 is definitely tuned differently as the torque and HP ratings are far enough from the 6030 and 6530. Since all three use the same basic engine (152.4 Cu. in. 3-cylinder) the difference is probably less turbo boost on the 5530. Depending on how the turbo is set up (waste gated, electronically controlled, et al) it'd be possible to change the boost pressures and get just about whatever you want from it without much trouble.

So, unless I can find a dealer offering a fantastic price on a 7060, then the 6030 is what I'm shooting for.

EDL,
I have heard about the rpm difference before on the lower end of the 30 series. I just looked at the brochure on the 30 series and I can say that the $1700 difference will be 2 remotes and about 165 pounds which probably comes from the larger ag tires on the rear (which might be a typo) of the 6530
I bet if you really looked hard you could find a dealer since with a 6520. Still the 6030 will be a beast.
hugs, Brandi

 

[EDL]

Oops, I made a mistake, the 6530 is listed at 57 HP at the PTO (not 55 HP that I used in the calcs) and 65HP at the engine. Hmmm...I wonder why the 6530 seems to have less parasitic drag in the PTO drive train? Maybe the gearing is a little different after all. Still, I'm betting the engine is the same in the 6030 and 6530, just rated at different RPM's.

I see the same engine is used in the 7060 as well, but is rated at 67HP at 2200RPM. Has to be a difference in the turbo boost or injectors/fuel plate if it gets 2 more HP at the same RPM. The 7060 is also rated the same PTO HP as the 6530, but at a higher engine RPM (2186 vs 2059). which makes me wonder how the heck the 6530 is getting the same PTO HP at a lower engine RPM and HP and still make 540 RPM at the PTO? Something fishy about these numbers for sure.

Yeah, the RPM difference won't be much for the same basic engine and the relatively small difference in rated HP. It's because of the relationship of torque and RPM to HP. The 200 RPM at the engine gives the extra HP rating.

I looked at Bill's Tractor online (I've been to that place when I lived in San Antonio). He lists the 7060 with loader at $419 per month with zero down, 84 month financing at 4.99%. Extrapolating that backwards this means $29700 out the door price. To me that would be inline with what I would expect the 7060 to go for, but it doesn't account for sales tax. Surely the price wouldn't be low enough that $29700 includes tax! Either way, the 7060 is bumping right up to $30,000. I intend to do the 0% interest for 60 months deal. So, $30,000 out the door, 10% downpayment = $27,000 financed. Payment is $450 per month. Ergghhh...that dang 7060 just might be doable after all.

How this is going to work for me = I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel 4x4 and the last payment is January. The payment is $550 per month. My intent was to finance a tractor but keep the payment around $400 so I have a new tractor and still have around $150 per month to throw into savings. If I can go with the 7060 at around $450 per month it's still in the ballpark. Actually, I could go all the way to the same $550 per month payment for the tractor, I just really don't want to.

I don't know, in reality a 4530 would probably work perfectly fine for me as I really don't know much about tractor sizing for the work I need to do. I just worry that I don 't end up regretting trying to save a little and end up with not enough tractor. I would rather have more power than I need than not enough.

For example, you mention the 2 extra remotes on the 6530. What would they be useful for? Short of the bush hog, box blade, loader and auger, I don't have a need for any other attachments.

As for the extra weight, I don't think 160 lbs will make much differnce, would it? And I agree, I think it's in the wheels and tires (ag). I intend to go with the industrials anyway and according to the brochures, they all use the same size on those.

Ok, I think I've written a novel here, I won't bore you anymore

 

[Bindian]

Oops, I made a mistake, the 6530 is listed at 57 HP at the PTO (not 55 HP that I used in the calcs) and 65HP at the engine. Hmmm...I wonder why the 6530 seems to have less parasitic drag in the PTO drive train? Maybe the gearing is a little different after all. Still, I'm betting the engine is the same in the 6030 and 6530, just rated at different RPM's.

I see the same engine is used in the 7060 as well, but is rated at 67HP at 2200RPM. Has to be a difference in the turbo boost or injectors/fuel plate if it gets 2 more HP at the same RPM. The 7060 is also rated the same PTO HP as the 6530, but at a higher engine RPM (2186 vs 2059). which makes me wonder how the heck the 6530 is getting the same PTO HP at a lower engine RPM and HP and still make 540 RPM at the PTO? Something fishy about these numbers for sure.

Yeah, the RPM difference won't be much for the same basic engine and the relatively small difference in rated HP. It's because of the relationship of torque and RPM to HP. The 200 RPM at the engine gives the extra HP rating.

I looked at Bill's Tractor online (I've been to that place when I lived in San Antonio). He lists the 7060 with loader at $419 per month with zero down, 84 month financing at 4.99%. Extrapolating that backwards this means $29700 out the door price. To me that would be inline with what I would expect the 7060 to go for, but it doesn't account for sales tax. Surely the price wouldn't be low enough that $29700 includes tax! Either way, the 7060 is bumping right up to $30,000. I intend to do the 0% interest for 60 months deal. So, $30,000 out the door, 10% downpayment = $27,000 financed. Payment is $450 per month. Ergghhh...that dang 7060 just might be doable after all.

How this is going to work for me = I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel 4x4 and the last payment is January. The payment is $550 per month. My intent was to finance a tractor but keep the payment around $400 so I have a new tractor and still have around $150 per month to throw into savings. If I can go with the 7060 at around $450 per month it's still in the ballpark. Actually, I could go all the way to the same $550 per month payment for the tractor, I just really don't want to.

I don't know, in reality a 4530 would probably work perfectly fine for me as I really don't know much about tractor sizing for the work I need to do. I just worry that I don 't end up regretting trying to save a little and end up with not enough tractor. I would rather have more power than I need than not enough.

For example, you mention the 2 extra remotes on the 6530. What would they be useful for? Short of the bush hog, box blade, loader and auger, I don't have a need for any other attachments.

As for the extra weight, I don't think 160 lbs will make much differnce, would it? And I agree, I think it's in the wheels and tires (ag). I intend to go with the industrials anyway and according to the brochures, they all use the same size on those.

Ok, I think I've written a novel here, I won't bore you anymore

ELD,
I am thinking the gearing difference is the ag tires on the 6530. Also, the 7060 is not turbocharged. It's just a more emission controlled engine than on my 6520. It all boils down to injector and emission settings I guess
It is best to figure out what tractor you need and apply a fudge factor. Get the biggest tractor you can afford and it never will break from being overworked. I kick myself for not getting the 7520 instead of the 6520. Remotes are good if you ever want to get a grapple or top and tilt for your boxblade.
hugs,
Brandi

 

[EDL]

Hmmm, well, according to the info on Mahindra's website the 7060 uses the same 152.4 cu. in. turbo charged 3-cylinder engine that's found in the 30 series.

Lol, I don't even know what a "top and tilt" is for a box blade

I don't think the gearing or drive train for the PTO has anything to do with the wheel size since it is a separate drive train (I think). You can get the industrial wheels and tires which are smaller than the ags so that might affect final drive ratio/speeds of the tractor, but shouldn't alter the PTO speeds.

I think the 7060 is what I want, but I want to sit on one first. I really want the 7060 primarily for the stronger hydraulics. I admit that I have an intended use for that which has nothing to do with implements. I've got a lot of landscaping changes to make and part of that includes removing some rather large shrubs. The plan is to whack them off with the chain saw, then use the 3-pt hitch and chains to literally lift the stumps out of the ground (these shrubs have trunks about 4" in diameter).

I'm sure the loader will also find lots of lifting chores as well, other than moving dirt. I've got about 1,000 feet of rotted fencing to replace and the plan is to use concrete posts instead of wood (will never have to replace those babies again) and the heft of them will keep the wind from pushing them over. I'll need the auger for the holes and the loader, or the 3-pt with a carry all to haul the concrete posts. The loader to lift and set them.

The 7060 is probably a bit more than I need, but really there's not a significant difference in price between the 6030, 6530 and 7060. If the hydraulics on the 30 series had the same rating as the 7060 it'd be a no brainer

I guess when looking at a tractor in this price/power range $1500 or so really shouldn't make the decision to step down to less power.

I'll have to run it past SWMBO first and see how she feels about a $450ish per month paynment vs $390-$400.

 

[Bindian]

Hmmm, well, according to the info on Mahindra's website the 7060 uses the same 152.4 cu. in. turbo charged 3-cylinder engine that's found in the 30 series.

Lol, I don't even know what a "top and tilt" is for a box blade

I don't think the gearing or drive train for the PTO has anything to do with the wheel size since it is a separate drive train (I think). You can get the industrial wheels and tires which are smaller than the ags so that might affect final drive ratio/speeds of the tractor, but shouldn't alter the PTO speeds.

I think the 7060 is what I want, but I want to sit on one first. I really want the 7060 primarily for the stronger hydraulics. I admit that I have an intended use for that which has nothing to do with implements. I've got a lot of landscaping changes to make and part of that includes removing some rather large shrubs. The plan is to whack them off with the chain saw, then use the 3-pt hitch and chains to literally lift the stumps out of the ground (these shrubs have trunks about 4" in diameter).

I'm sure the loader will also find lots of lifting chores as well, other than moving dirt. I've got about 1,000 feet of rotted fencing to replace and the plan is to use concrete posts instead of wood (will never have to replace those babies again) and the heft of them will keep the wind from pushing them over. I'll need the auger for the holes and the loader, or the 3-pt with a carry all to haul the concrete posts. The loader to lift and set them.

The 7060 is probably a bit more than I need, but really there's not a significant difference in price between the 6030, 6530 and 7060. If the hydraulics on the 30 series had the same rating as the 7060 it'd be a no brainer

I guess when looking at a tractor in this price/power range $1500 or so really shouldn't make the decision to step down to less power.

I'll have to run it past SWMBO first and see how she feels about a $450ish per month paynment vs $390-$400.

Oops, my mistake. I was thinking the 7060 was not turbocharged, but it is a 3 cylinder turbocharged and intercooled engine, while the 5530, 6030, and the 6530 are 4 cylinder non turbo engines. The 4530 is a 3 cylinder.

Top and tilt hydraulics on your box blade is a must for fine tuning during boxblade work in landscaping

I was not referring to pto when mentioning larger tires. Just the fact the 6530 has larger ag tires than the 6030. Larger rear tires for the same gearing give the final drive gear advantage to the 6530.

By all means drive all tractors you want to compare. Play with the controls and see which one "fits" you best.

An aircraft maintenance supervisor (he owned and ran an engine machine shop in his barn ) told me years ago......You can't beat cubic inches. Turbochargers do not count in the cubic inch total. So to me, 4 cylinders are better than 3 cylinders.
hugs, Brandi