2008 RTV 1100 COLD START PROBLEM

spin

New member
my rtv 1100 just doesnt want to start when its in the 30s or 40s,,,,,,,i need to let the glow plugs on for at least 20 seconds,then,it will sometimes start and run,then,suddenly just shut off,then,i have to again,preheat and crank and crank to get it running,i put on new fuel filters,two new fuel pumps,a one way check valve in the fuel line,checked the glow plugs,checked for restrictions,i have a good roll when cranking,it just has a problem,the only things i have no done was check the spark arrester and the possiblity of faulty injectors? any input would be appreciated
 

Attachments

  • 33CC0D69-F4BC-439A-9F9C-C5335E00E7E8.jpeg
    33CC0D69-F4BC-439A-9F9C-C5335E00E7E8.jpeg
    4.2 MB · Views: 0

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
i have a 2007 1100. it is normal to need the glow plugs at that temperature. have you checked for air getting into the system?? if it were mine before i spent alot of money on expensive parts i would go ahead and put in a set of new oem glow plugs first. try priming the system with the hand pump to see if that helps and if it does then probably have an air leak??? also i think from another post you changed the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump that has issues???? am i correct? also are you pushing the foot feed while starting the engine?
 

spin

New member
yes,,,,,i actually purchased 2 new pumps,but,the only reason i bought them,was they were both leaking engine oil,one pump i could understand a defective,but, two???? hmmmmm,,, not likely,finally,putting things to mind,i though possibly too much crankcase pressure,and,yes,that was the problem all along,the crankcase was not breathing properly,and the pressure had to go somewhere,in my case,to the fuel pump,where the "tickler shaft" runs through the pump,,, and,yes,i have tried pushing the foot pedal while starting,,,,,,as far as the glow plugs,i usesd a micro tester and the glow plugs tested ok,,,,,,i was told that unlike spark plugs,glow plugs either work,or,dont work at all,,,,they all tested ok
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
good news about the pump!!!! so lets assume the pump is ok,now on to the starting issue. glow plugs are tricky when testing that way because they can still conduct but not glow. if you really want to test them take them out and see if they get hot but by the time you do that a new set is just easier. when starting a cold rtv with an hst like yours and mine if you push the peddle while starting you are also engaging the swash plates and the hydraulics. this puts a parasitic load on the engine and will kill the engine especially when it is cold. if you need extra fuel when cold starting leave your foot off of the peddle and use the hand throttle instead. it will probably take off and run just fine. during the blizzard a few weeks ago i started my 07 1100 at -14F and had to glow for about sixty seconds and use the hand throttle to get it rolling.
 

spin

New member
thats very interesting,,,,but,as far as the swash plates are concerned,if,while cranking,the machine is in the neutral position,the swash plates should not be an issue?,you did answer my question concerning the glow plugs,,,,
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
i am going to try to consolidate a little here from several of your threads. if you machine is a 2008 model and the name plate says rtv 1100 then you don't have an X1100c,they are totaly different machines and when trading threads make sure you are comparing apples to apples. just advice

when the gear stick is in neutral all that does id put the gear part of the transmission in neutral and disconnects the gears from the hst. when starting the engine or at idle or any time the peddle is pushed the swash plate is tilting and the hst is pumping against high pressure. when the peddle is up without your foot on it AND if the linkages are proper then the swash is in flat and the pump isn't stroked it just spins so the drag is minimal.

sounds like some of your glow plugs aren't getting hot enough but the above problem could be the real culprit.
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
one other thing that is good to know is to when the engine starts you can just release the key a little and the starter will disengage but the glow plugs are still lit. so watch the glow plug light in the dash and leave them lit until the engine stops sputtering and takes off.
 

Iron mike

Member
Diesel starts to gel at 40 degrees F, how old is the fuel? Do you use an anti gel agent in cold weather, do you or can you buy Arctic diesel or regular, if you filled up in fall before fuel suppliers changed to winter fuel you could just have some sluggish fuel in your system.
 

Iron mike

Member
thats very interesting,,,,but,as far as the swash plates are concerned,if,while cranking,the machine is in the neutral position,the swash plates should not be an issue?,you did answer my question concerning the glow plugs,,,,
Spin, reading your replies to other threads it sounds like you have a HST/Tranny issue as well. Best keep all your issues in to one thread for now, it’s easier for people to follow and help.


best piece of advice is get a Work Shop Manual for your model, they are $30 and you can download it to your phone, tablet computer etc! It has ALL the info you need to adjust your HST. There are also more than a few thread on here that cover the issue as well.

start by doing a few simple tests, put the rear end up on jack stands so the wheels are off the ground, make sure your in 2wd. Then press the accelerator pedal and watch the speedometer. That’s the best way of finding out your top speed while still in the shop and without having to drive the rtv around.

have you pulled the HST filters? A clogged filter will bog down and stop your machine. Have you checked the oil level in the hydro tank under the passenger seat? These units won’t run on a low hydro tank. Check the oil level in the transmission as well. Any leaks anywhere? do you have a kink in any of the return hydro lines, with the unit running do you see movement in the fluid in hydro under the seat? No movement means no fluid is being returned to the tank. What does the fluid look like in that tank, shine a flash light in there is it clear or does it sparkle and look murky, if it sparkles and looks yellow that’s brass from the swath plates.

just a couple of suggestions to get you started.
 
Last edited:

spin

New member
i am going to try to consolidate a little here from several of your threads. if you machine is a 2008 model and the name plate says rtv 1100 then you don't have an X1100c,they are totaly different machines and when trading threads make sure you are comparing apples to apples. just advice

when the gear stick is in neutral all that does id put the gear part of the transmission in neutral and disconnects the gears from the hst. when starting the engine or at idle or any time the peddle is pushed the swash plate is tilting and the hst is pumping against high pressure. when the peddle is up without your foot on it AND if the linkages are proper then the swash is in flat and the pump isn't stroked it just spins so the drag is minimal.

sounds like some of your glow plugs aren't getting hot enough but the above problem could be the real culprit.
aurthurtis,i dont recall every saying i had an x1100c machine,,all my placard says rtv1100,,,,so,i assume mine is simply a rtv1100? also,thanks so much for your advice
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
sorry spin. from your other questions in other posts you were asking advice from specific X1100C issues and was concerned that you might be unaware that the two models are so different under the hood that you might get really messed up. yes your model is the old RTV 1100. you should look up in this forum posts from" spudhauler" he was very active in the early models way before my time and his discussions have helped me much with my old 1100. to help with confusion--- i have both models an RTV X1100C ans an RTV 1100
 

spin

New member
sorry spin. from your other questions in other posts you were asking advice from specific X1100C issues and was concerned that you might be unaware that the two models are so different under the hood that you might get really messed up. yes your model is the old RTV 1100. you should look up in this forum posts from" spudhauler" he was very active in the early models way before my time and his discussions have helped me much with my old 1100. to help with confusion--- i have both models an RTV X1100C ans an RTV 1100
AURTHURTIS,,,,its ok,,,,sorry i ramble on and on,but,i have had problelms with this unit every since i purchased it,,,,i have changed every fluid and every filter on this machine,with the exception of the fresh air filter and the a/c filter,,,,,today,i hope to remove the glow plugs and test them,as u instructed,also,jack up the rear end and run it wide open in high gear to see its top high speed,,,,,i feel good that i finally resolved the oil leak problem which i blamed on faulty fuel pumps,,, thanks for alll your valued advice,,,,,
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
no prob. i am confident you will get this sorted out to your satisfaction. just wanted to urge you to take first things first approach so you don't unnecessarily disassemble things that are masked by something thay just needs adjusted.

just to help you know--- my 2007 rtv1100 will start just fine in cold temps like you describe but it does require about 10 seconds or more on the glow plugs and sometimes requires a couple of attempts. it i put my foot on the peddle it acts exactly like you describe.

put the glow plug in a set of vice grips touching the negative battery terminal and with something heavy touch the hot terminal to the positive post and see if they all glow hot in the same time period. remember they all need to glow red in the same time. sometimes people will unknowingly change out one bad plug with a new one of different resistance and it wont get hot in the time allowed.
 

spin

New member
no prob. i am confident you will get this sorted out to your satisfaction. just wanted to urge you to take first things first approach so you don't unnecessarily disassemble things that are masked by something thay just needs adjusted.

just to help you know--- my 2007 rtv1100 will start just fine in cold temps like you describe but it does require about 10 seconds or more on the glow plugs and sometimes requires a couple of attempts. it i put my foot on the peddle it acts exactly like you describe.

put the glow plug in a set of vice grips touching the negative battery terminal and with something heavy touch the hot terminal to the positive post and see if they all glow hot in the same time period. remember they all need to glow red in the same time. sometimes people will unknowingly change out one bad plug with a new one of different resistance and it wont get hot in the time allowed.
aurthuritis,,,,, just now pulled the glow plugs out,and hooked up a negative jumper cable to the glow plug housing,then,took the threaded end,and put it agains the positive terminal,,,,,are these supposed to glow red hot after being on for 60 seconds?
 

spin

New member
i have no clue as to what happed? its not a complicated test,,,,,the first time i checked them,i held the electrode between my fingers,and touched to the positive terminal,it gradually got hot,but,it took 60 seconds to do so,i rechecked them a second time,and for some reason,when touching the positive terminal,they spattered,,,,,like a direct short? i know i had every thing hooked up properly,,,,,in any event,tomorrow i get new set of plugs,,,,,,,,happy easter and thanks again for alll your help
 

spin

New member
ALSO,,,,,both rear wheels are free,,,,,,speedometer must run off the front axel,nothing registered running with the rear wheels jacked up
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
one important thing before you adjust anything on the hst is it must be hot. i don't know where the speed pickup is but my old 07 model 1100 will run out at about 26 mph on good hard flat road and pulls down to about 23 with a heavy load. it also has very little pulling power in high but in medium is the best working gear. with the machine jacked up and warmed up with the transmission in high and the throttle reving the engine at max you can adjust the swash servo for neutral or just a very slight forward or reverse creep to aid in shifting .
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
Top