200 Hour Service

O

Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower

Member
I am rolling up on the 200 hour service for my 2016 X1120. The dealer has done all the service work so far but I am also rolling up on retirement and wanted to start doing my preventive maintenance myself.

For the 200 hour, I notice she gets an oil change and filter, fresh transmission filters (2), a new hydraulic tank filter and fluid replacement.

My question is, why isn't the transmission fluid changed at this interval as well?

The operations are generally on weekends, 2-6 hours of operation, stops and starts but not lengthy idling. Occasionally, it will get as week of daily use and long trips (5+miles).

I will roll to the dealer and pick up the 200 hour genuinely expensive Kubota parts and fluids. But before I did, I wanted to see if transmission fluid is something that really should be changed now despite the recommendations in the WSM.

One other question - do your brakes require quite a bit of leg or do you just have to lay your foot on them like power brakes. I admit I rarely need them or use them as we operate in low much of the time. But my Daughter ran it quite a bit during vacation and said they seem really stiff to her.

Thanks
 
Fortunately the brakes rarely need to be used, especially in low, as they are the most inferior brakes on the UTV market. It takes lots of effort to apply them. (2019 X1100c) Borrow another brand of machine and you'll eat the steering wheel. 🤣
 
I never use my brakes in my 2020 1100 because the transmission braking is so awesome. But my brakes feel and work good.

I know lots of people try and do just filters without draining the hydro oil (which I don't agree with and two reps I spoke to at a Kubota dealer meeting said that is a typo in the manuals and they don't agree with it either) but I changed the fluid too in both my tractor and my RTV and when you see how black the oil looks, you'll be glad you changed it at break in.
And besides, it would make a mess trying to change the filters with draining the oil. I found that out.......I thought the hydraulic oil was separate from the transmission in my RTV seeing as how they have separate tanks and dip sticks. But boy did I get a surprise when I pulled the filters off and hadn't drained the hydraulic tank!

I know we all hate spending money, but I just can't understand worrying about a $100 pail of oil in a new $30,000 machine. I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing I changed the oil, especially the first couple intervals when everything is breaking in.
 
Yep, same with tractor. Looks clear pouring out, but put it in a translucent pail and you'll be surprised.
 
I would not go by the manual at all myself. It doesn't say to replace the fluid until 400 hours!!!!
It shows to replace filters at 50 hour break in, then again at 200 hours, then filters and fluid at 400.

With how much these things cost now, I would for sure do a break in oil change just to get any casting dirt or initial wear particles out.

I've said it before on all the Kubota tractor forums too, every time I see people using shop vacs to hold the oil in while they change just the filters because the manual says filters only..........I got to attend a dealer show once with my dealership owner and I specifically asked a Kubota rep about this and his response was "that's a typo in the translation from Japanese to English in the manuals because I would never NOT replace the fluid, especially at break in"

Then he went on to tell me stories of all the people that have to replace mini-excavator final drives because people don't change the one or two pints of oil that go in each side and it ends up costing them over $2500.00

I know oil has got expensive too, but look at prices now. I paid $26,000 before accessories for my 2020 RTV-X1100C. They are currently $32,000 Canadian. Nothing has changed on them.
So I'm making sure mine lives a long life, LOL
 
the transmission oil change interval should read...... change the transmission and final drive oils yearly or at 400 hours, which ever occurs first..... almost all of the failed low hour transmissions are because it sometimes takes 8 or more years for some to accumulate 200 hours and actually the machine is short 8 oil changes.
 
I just made a habit of going through my tractors and RTV every fall. Replace fluids and filters and a good inspection.

It's one thing to have an issue or break down in the summer and you have to wait to mow the lawn or grade the road, but it REALLY SUCKS if you have an issue in the winter and there is 3 feet of snow in the driveway, LOL
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
2016 RTV-X1120. Could someone confirm this for me please. The Hydraulic Tank (4.5 gal) provides fluid for the steering, bed lift and the VHT (transmission.) It has a both a suction side filter and a charge side filter. You check this fluid under the passenger seat. Then there is Transmission Case fluid (1.8 gal) which provides lubrication for the rear diff, 4x4 gears and range gears. It is not filtered and you check the level on top of the transmission. There are two plugs in the bottom of the trans case, a plus and a magnetic plug. Do I have this right? The shop manual doesn't really put it in easy to understand language so wanted to confirm with the experts.
 
Sounds right to me Pawpaw. But just a reminder of one thing I learned when I did the first 50 hour change. The manual did not say to drain or replace the hydraulic oil tank during that first 50 hour service (the tank you check under the passenger seat)
So I drained the transmission case then went to remove the two filters as per what the manual says and I dumped a large volume of oil all over the driveway! Removing the filters will allow oil to drain from that hydraulic tank.
So from then on, I now drain EVERYTHING and change all fluids and filters at same time.
 
Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower said:
2016 RTV-X1120. Could someone confirm this for me please. The Hydraulic Tank (4.5 gal) provides fluid for the steering, bed lift and the VHT (transmission.) It has a both a suction side filter and a charge side filter. You check this fluid under the passenger seat. Then there is Transmission Case fluid (1.8 gal) which provides lubrication for the rear diff, 4x4 gears and range gears. It is not filtered and you check the level on top of the transmission. There are two plugs in the bottom of the trans case, a plus and a magnetic plug. Do I have this right? The shop manual doesn't really put it in easy to understand language so wanted to confirm with the experts.
Click to expand...
There is a drain plug in the bottom of the tank. Other than that you have it correct.
 
I just did my 1 year/ 200 hour service on our X1100c. I took Aurthuritis's advice and changed the SUDT2 in the transmission case and SUDT2 in the front differential too in addition to the items listed in the manual for 200 hours. The tranny case had a drain plug and a magnet plug (fluid will come out of that too). The front differential fill hole is at a difficult angle for the funnels I had on hand. I had to get creative to re-fill that after draining. I now have a new funnel purchased off Amazon just for that task. Looks like we'll be going through some SUDT2 every year.
 
Amarillo said:
I just did my 1 year/ 200 hour service on our X1100c. I took Aurthuritis's advice and changed the SUDT2 in the transmission case and SUDT2 in the front differential too in addition to the items listed in the manual for 200 hours. The tranny case had a drain plug and a magnet plug (fluid will come out of that too). The front differential fill hole is at a difficult angle for the funnels I had on hand. I had to get creative to re-fill that after draining. I now have a new funnel purchased off Amazon just for that task. Looks like we'll be going through some SUDT2 every year.
Click to expand...
Kindly post the link to that magic funnel.

Much appreciated!! Despite my mobility issues, you guys are inspiring me to try this myself!
 
I use a section of clear plastic tubing attached to a squeeze bottle or an old clean empty quart size oil container. To fill the diff and the knuckles
 
aurthuritis said:
I use a section of clear plastic tubing attached to a squeeze bottle or an old clean empty quart size oil container. To fill the diff and the knuckles
Click to expand...
For regularly-serviced items (such as this…. and for 80W90 gear oil….and brake fluid change,etc etc….. I buy a dedicated “garden sprayer” cheap from WalMart etc…typically less than $10. Cut the spray nozzle off the end of the wand…and push a clear plastic tubing onto the wand.
Now it’s EASY to put fluids Exactly Where you want it….AND know how much you put there.….(graduated marks on the sprayer-tank).

Hope this helps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top