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I wasn't thinking of anything electrical.

There may be a way to get around that problem if you're willing to get a little "creative".

A backpack blower is about as helpful as a hog with a newspaper. It has little effect other than blow the fuzz off the screen. It won't do a thing for what's lodged down in the core of the radiator. I prefer the frontal assault, straight into the fins with a direct stream of compressed air. Not...

I can't speak to the regen nonsense as I don't work on electronic engine related problems. I'm far more experienced in common sense fuel systems than common rail. The heating problem is most likely due to not properly cleaning out the radiator. I see this more often than you would think...

1/8 28 is British pipe thread. Standard NPT is 1/8 27 threads per inch.

So you have 11 volts at the starter solenoid signal wire when it started. What do you have there when it won't start? If it's still 11 volts then yes, you may have a starter or solenoid issue but it's still possible you don't have enough voltage there when things warm up. If that's the case...

I get a lot of stuff at NAPA. Local store is only 1/2 mile away, and the counter people have been there for years. Not like going to Advance Auto or O'Reilly where it's someone new every time you walk in. People who can't find their butt cheeks with asking "what's it off of?" Sometimes with...

Lots of places sell belts. I've never let dealer stock (or no stock) hold things up.

Your details are a bit sketchy, however your tractor has a common sense fuel system (as opposed the common rail system used on the unit mentioned above) so it's more likely your problem can be identified without proprietary software and an electronics degree.

Left brake is the Problem? Right brake works as (you think) it should? Starting point would be to crack the bleeder vent on top of the left final drive housing. Does fluid escape under any sort of pressure spurt? If so, tighten it back down and try moving the tractor again and checking for brake...

I wouldn't call it wear, more like scoring. Metal contamination type of thing. Definitely needs replacement and a THOROUGH system cleansing. If that's the pump wear plate the motor plate should also be examined. The same stuff went through both units.

Actually, that is a relatively common practice, and has been for years. Many machines (tractors included) that have hydrostatic drive or power shuttle transmissions don't always have a dry clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, ETC. They simply use a plate of some sort bolted to the flywheel...

Start with a set of gauges. You need to know the static pressure first. That gives you an idea of the charge status. Then start the system and see what the gauges tell you. What you do next is based on that. Without gauges you have nothing to work with.

Okay, point noted. So what's your plan?

The point (as I see it) is this. Homeowner servicing of A/C systems has its limitations. If the system only needs a little freon added, and what you have on hand is a parts house recharge devise with a single pressure gauge and a low side adapter fitting, you can get lucky. That will work...

Doing air conditioning work "over the phone" doesn't usually work out too well. "low side freon is exactly to spec". Now what does that mean? There is only one gauge, so it's probably on a charging can. How accurate can we expect that be? Short cycling. What can the problem be? COULD be low...

I'm not sure a wiring diagram is your answer. Faulty wiring doesn't make compressors fail. Problems in the wiring, shorts and/or partially grounded circuits will blow fuses, melt wires, burn connections, that sort of thing. If you have that going on, then you've got a problem. Just because...

You're having compressor failures and you think an added fuse holder is the the reason? What size fuse is in this fuse holder? If you remove this fuse, what A/C components stop working? The compressor clutch (if that's all the fuse supplies) will work just fine on a 5A or 7.5A fuse.

You might try some other forums, like Tractor Forum, or Tractor by Net. There's a guy BMaverick who frequents a lot of forums. He's all gung ho on Yanmars and other Asian compact tractors. If you connect with him he probably knows of some suppliers.

Typically a gear pump like that will have dowel sleeves probably two on each endcap. The dowels will only allow the cap to go onto the center section in one orientation. That's the wrong pump for your application, simple as that. If you can't contact them and get the right one, you're kind of...