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The 135 with multipower wasn't all that common, but the manual for the 165 multipower tractor would cover the same material. Have you gotten to the screen yet or are you still working at that? You can remove the coupler and drive shaft and make access much easier. Just pull the cotter pin out...

I recall a few others looking for that hose. Seems it's impossible to find. Oil resistant hose in various sizes is available. I would be inclined to visit a local muffler shop. Hopefully find some tight 90 degree bends close in diameter to the hose, and some scraps to match the larger diameter...

Any thoughts? Just one, (so far) check the quick couplers on the loader lift circuit. If everything else works but loader lift function, it's not a system problem, more likely an issue AFTER the valve spool. First thing to do is give both hose couplers a yank and see if one comes apart when you...

I don't think I've ever seen a fuel gauge sender with three wires. The black is obviously ground. The gauge wire will be green or green with a tracer. I have no idea where the third one would go other than possibly down to a connector for an auxiliary tank (if it had one) I would pull the gauge...

So what happened? Kubota stop making/supplying them?

I agree that looks a little crusty, but wouldn't a simple hose clamp keep in place?

The cable will be one unit. The old shield will need to be removed, whatever that takes.

Your logic escapes me, but hey, it's your project. Seems to me the problem would AFTER the PTO switch, and not likely anything with the fuse panel. Me? I would start by unplugging the PTO valve solenoid coil next and see what that does. If still blowing fuses with PTO switch on I'd be tracing...

GOOD directions? That might be interesting. If it were my project I would start with a pump shop I was comfortable with. Provide the numbers on the I.D. tag and see what they have to say about the tools needed. You might get lucky and find someone there that's familiar with your motor, but most...

So how is a '21 model covered under two year bumper to bumper warranty? I'm pretty dense so I'm having a hard time picturing that.

So this is a John Deere bucket (model unknown) on a 460 loader on a 4600 tractor? What's wrong with the shafts that seals won't solve the leaks? What's so special about the cylinders "the shop" can't solve the problems without new cylinders from Mother Deere? I'm not sure how you expect any...

What is a JD 460?

I hope you realize that's awfully risky. If you broke the bond between the manifold and the head, you risk having an air (and dirt) leak at any of the ports now. I would strongly recommend you go over all the joints with engine running at low RPM and carefully spray some ether around all those...

Kinda spooky, ain't it?

What you're describing is unusual. Yes, tractors slow down and die often enough, but that usually involves certain symptoms. Fuel supply related issues being the most common, but electrical problems usually come in a close second. In many cases the engine won't start, as is your case. Big...

I wasn't thinking of anything electrical.

There may be a way to get around that problem if you're willing to get a little "creative".

A backpack blower is about as helpful as a hog with a newspaper. It has little effect other than blow the fuzz off the screen. It won't do a thing for what's lodged down in the core of the radiator. I prefer the frontal assault, straight into the fins with a direct stream of compressed air. Not...

I can't speak to the regen nonsense as I don't work on electronic engine related problems. I'm far more experienced in common sense fuel systems than common rail. The heating problem is most likely due to not properly cleaning out the radiator. I see this more often than you would think...

1/8 28 is British pipe thread. Standard NPT is 1/8 27 threads per inch.