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Adjust it to look like this again. Then examin the other end to see if you can remove some slack by adjusting the sheath closer to the end of the threads if you want. A half inch of travel might not hurt anything though. As far as deflection you want maximum travel in the peddle without putting...

See in your photo? The slack in the cable? Adjust the sheath until this slack is gone with the peddle in it's high position.

From your photos the control cable from the peddle to the belcrank is way out of adjustment. The end of the cable nearest the peddle should be nearest the end of the threads and visa versa on the belcrank end. Give or take on each end.

CORRECTION! the hst speed lever moves away from the cab and towards the rear as the peddle is pressed. The hst speed lever should be to the furthest most rear of it's travel with the peddle fully depressed. Sorry 😞 i edited the above post.

You can adjust the lentgh of the throttle cable by loosening the jamb nut and turning the stud attach to the cable.

The bellcrank would be in the detent with the peddle released. The hst speed lever should be in the furthest rear position away from the cab at max depression of the peddle. You can adjust the lenghth of the hst speed rod by loosening the jamb nuts on both ends and turning the center to...

There is alot going on with this adjustment and it took me several try to get it figured out also so don't get frustrated. I will put it in an order. 1.at the rear or the machine disconnect the hst speed rod from the hst speed lever. 2. Disconnect the little cable from the fuel pump throttle...

Sounds to me from your description that you don't understand the adjustment procedure. It is the peddle travel that you start with and not the cable. If you have followed the procedure correctly the gears would not be clashing,this indicates that your machine is grossly out of adjustment. Sorry...

That came as a result of a recall. My x1100c was sold without one but kubota Installed one as a recall campaign. Check with the dealer or contact ktc direct.

Ok so there isn't any air when you bleed? Take out the injector and swap into another place or with a known good injector and see what happens?

The wsm says 120 as max charge pressure. Might as well get it to that spec with hot oil.

120 psi sounds to high for the charge pressure but i am just guessing. It is listed in the wsm i think. It has been a while since i looked all of this up

Sounds like you need to do the peddle adjustment on post 16 of the thread in the sticky section.

There are points to where more boost is just wasting fuel and making heat unless you can increase the rpm up to the 5000 rpm range. But the transmission rotating valve block will grenade at that rpm.

More fuel equal more boost pressure. Also more egt... you can get up to 3800 rpm without damage to the transmission. Without piston cooling jets you run the risk of piston damage. The charge pump along with the charge pressure valve is the pressure that the case runs at and is what fills the...

For stall you just need to put it in high 4wd to spread out the stress add some weight if needed and tie it or brake or both. I don't remember what the max case pressure is but it isn't a whole bunch more than the factory charge settings. You can overspeed the input speed of the transmission...

Also there are real limits that the transmission case can withstand without cracking to i would measure the pressure soon.

Test your boost pressure at operating temp with the transmission in stall. Also at this time read the pyrometer. Is your probe before or after the turbo?

Yes. The one with a sender screwed into it. Just plumb a T into that port and use it for both the light and a gage

I suspect an air leak.