rtv 900 coast valve location

Disregard i found files from Muley burried in the forum.Ill look them over and go from there.Hopefully it has the location of the damn plug i need to pull.
Only reason im gunna try this is I talked to my dealer today about the u joints getting tore up and he said it was fixed in later years but most of the stress was from the dynamic braking and a coast valve replacement would help a lot.But i remembered you cound actually adjust the stock on and save 150 or more.
If anyone does know the location you can still let me know even a pic would help in the mean time ill keep reading and searching.

Mark
 
OK all set on location.Its where I thought it was.Looks like i need to apply a lot more force on the hex plug.Damn that thing is in there tight!
 
found location.If anyone remembers how to pull and adjust it let me know.If I can save 150 with an adjustment ill go that route and it leaves me money for better lights thanks to Wild Bill and his damn lightbar lol
 
Mark

Here's how to adjust it. The set up has to do with the pressure, I read somewhere once where they backed of the spring like 3 turns but I haven't been able to re-find that info (I found it when I was rebuilding my Hydro on my 2005). I am looking to do this myself if I can find more info. the dynamic breaking is just too much.

I think I am going to try to back off the spring like a half a turn at a time and test but if anyone has a tested procedure please post it

Curt
 

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Ok, Sorry, so the PDF print didn't work so I'll try a screenshot

Curt
 

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  • ScreenHunter_01.jpg
    ScreenHunter_01.jpg
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Thanks Curt.
All the info ive found and one dealewr told me the adjustment should be 2.5 turns.This prevents cavitation and you dont get slammed so hard when you release the pedal.Ill give it a try today when i wake up and get the battery info someone else needed.
Very much appreciated!
 
Let me know how you make out.
I just got material to build a 2" lift for my front end so I will be building that first.
 
cchaffee said:
Let me know how you make out.
I just got material to build a 2" lift for my front end so I will be building that first.
Click to expand...
Are you building your own or using the kit? There's a thread around here where I outlined some tips and tricks for the kit.
 
Mark.Sibole said:
Disregard i found files from Muley burried in the forum.Ill look them over and go from there.Hopefully it has the location of the damn plug i need to pull.
Only reason im gunna try this is I talked to my dealer today about the u joints getting tore up and he said it was fixed in later years but most of the stress was from the dynamic braking and a coast valve replacement would help a lot.But i remembered you cound actually adjust the stock on and save 150 or more.
If anyone does know the location you can still let me know even a pic would help in the mean time ill keep reading and searching.

Mark
Click to expand...

A kit was offered, by Kubota, to reduce the passenger ejection seat effect of taking one's foot off the fuel feed. It was remarkably pronounced on ours when we bought it. We regarded the deceleration as sudden enough to be a hazard. Kubota provided the kit and the dealer installed it for no charge. It was installed before we had 50 hours on the machine.

It wasn't a huge improvement, but it was enough that we no longer considered the deceleration to be a safety hazard. I have no idea what was in the kit but I don't think it was as involved as changing pressures in the transmission. I have a foggy recollection that it was some sort of linkage modification, but my cranial Velcro is not all that retentive these days.

That said, if normal as designed deceleration was such a ravager of U-joints, a lot more people would be having U-joint problems. There are thousands of stock RTV's out there with OEM U-joints that are higher hours than mine (2,041).

From what I've read, you go through a lot of U-joints. Your joint failure rate seems to me to be way more than the deceleration loads would account for given that your deceleration is probably not any more severe than normal. I don't know what the cause is, but I can't make a convincing case for normal deceleration causing a 3X to 4X higher U-joint failure rate.

What I'm saying is, if it were me, I'd look for something else before I started screwing around with settings in the transmission.

Fitch
 
I understand what you are saying Fitch.I guess i just work mine a hell of a lot harder than most with the things I pull.plow and tug on.I dont think i ever used the brake on mine as it was so severe in the suto braking dept i never had to use the barkes.Yes I have gone through 6 joints in 10 years 2 failed due to me not checking the retaining rings when i set them.The others wore out or broke due to me either letting off the acelerator pedal way to fast with a full load of wood in back and a 8x12 trailer loaded so it basically slammed the joints.But if you look in reality what I do with my machine than most wont even think of doing its not really bad for 4 joints.But its only the joints nearest the trans.New outside joints or the ones closet to the wheels have never been changed and are still nice and tight but there is less angle on them.when i did mostly trail riding and just farting around i never have a perblem its when i get silly and use the machine to tug dad or the wife out of a snow bank or trying to tug a log that i thought was 10 feet and it was in actuality 80 feet something has to give and as the u joint is the weakest link it will go every time.Now with that being said i did figure out how the coast valve needed to be adjusted.Some of the wording in posts was hard to decifer but i took it back 2 turns and the dynamic braking has reduced 80 percent with just a tad left in.I could probably go another .5 turns but its tolerable for me now and still has a bit for when the kids grab it.Before with a fulll load of wood in the back when you released the pedal the back tires would lock right up and throw you forward.With the adjustment i made you coast 75 percent of the way until the dynamic barke kicksin which is tolerable.When i feel up to it ill replace the one joint that is a bit loose and ill know by next fall if it made any difference or i need to adjust my way of using it like a D4 dozer. Time willl tell.

Mark
 
Mark.Sibole said:
I understand what you are saying Fitch.I guess i just work mine a hell of a lot harder than most with the things I pull.plow and tug on.I dont think i ever used the brake on mine as it was so severe in the suto braking dept i never had to use the barkes.Yes I have gone through 6 joints in 10 years 2 failed due to me not checking the retaining rings when i set them.The others wore out or broke due to me either letting off the acelerator pedal way to fast with a full load of wood in back and a 8x12 trailer loaded so it basically slammed the joints.But if you look in reality what I do with my machine than most wont even think of doing its not really bad for 4 joints.But its only the joints nearest the trans.New outside joints or the ones closet to the wheels have never been changed and are still nice and tight but there is less angle on them.when i did mostly trail riding and just farting around i never have a perblem its when i get silly and use the machine to tug dad or the wife out of a snow bank or trying to tug a log that i thought was 10 feet and it was in actuality 80 feet something has to give and as the u joint is the weakest link it will go every time.Now with that being said i did figure out how the coast valve needed to be adjusted.Some of the wording in posts was hard to decifer but i took it back 2 turns and the dynamic braking has reduced 80 percent with just a tad left in.I could probably go another .5 turns but its tolerable for me now and still has a bit for when the kids grab it.Before with a fulll load of wood in the back when you released the pedal the back tires would lock right up and throw you forward.With the adjustment i made you coast 75 percent of the way until the dynamic barke kicksin which is tolerable.When i feel up to it ill replace the one joint that is a bit loose and ill know by next fall if it made any difference or i need to adjust my way of using it like a D4 dozer. Time willl tell.

Mark
Click to expand...

Your point about the stress associated with heavy loads and deceleration is valid. It makes sense to me.

The heavy load in the bed would work against it a couple of ways. First, the kinetic energy, second, increased traction. Where the wheels might have skidded to limit the torque on the joint, with the heavy weight in the bed and the trailer behind it, that would indeed be a reverse torque much higher than the engine could apply going forward. The thing can brake from some speed in a much shorter distance than it can accelerate to the same speed.

The plowing and dragging are also heavier loads than moving things on wheels, but in the forward direction and limited by available engine torque. That transmission has a lot of slip and doesn't generate a lot of torque.

Mine frequently (every day) carries a bed full of horse manure, but that's light compared to a load of fire wood. We've never hauled dirt in ours because we have other machines that do it better (LS160 Skid Steer). And I've never used it to tug on things because I have the JD770 which was built for tugging on things.

Fitch
 
Yes thats one big advantage you have over me you have the extra equipment were I didnt.In the fall i picked up a david brown 990 im working on to keep the strain off of the RTV.Hopefully it will be ready by spring and eliminate a huge load from the poor little Kubota.
 
Mark,
I have a 2007 model and backed my off 3 turns. Didn't remove all the braking, but no one gets slammed against the windshield now.
 
Will be interesting to see how it goes when plowing now.I know if i use the hand throttle it stops the slamming the old way this can only improve things.I still need to go to the dealer and ask about how i can get more power to the wheels.Nothing worse than being stuck and cant get the damn wheels to spin to get out.Thats always been my biggest dissapointment of the machine.Other than that you cant beat it.I would really like to see them add the option for a 3 speed or 4 speed manual trans.Then you would have a real beast IMO.
 
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