part numbers

M

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
can someone do me a favor like Collie and find part numbers for me for a carrier bearing for the rtv 900 and a u joint kubota oem. i cant find part numbers for either.
Thanks
Mark
 
Hi Mark, I found 'em. :) It is on page D145 of the older RTV 900 parts manual and listed under Universal Joint .
carrier bearing : K7561-1685-0, then also as: K7561-1685-2. this is item number 80 on the reference number in the picture. It also list 2 other snap rings as item number 70 .That is part # 15875-2432-0 quantity of 2 needed.
The old style drive shaft for the front is ref # 10 and part number is K7561-1681-0. Over in the corner of the diagram is a cut away showing a separate u joint which is probably for the rear shaft,, if you want to check , it is K7561-1682-0.
I would definitely confirm these numbers before ordering because my book is about 10 years old and my eyes aren't as good as they used to be..
I will also see if a picture of the diagram will show up and if so, will post it. collie
 
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Here ya go Mark. also added some of the rear axle ujoint since I wasn't sure which u joint you were talking about. I will be out of pocket for a couple of days. collie
 

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nuthin ever breaks when you wanna fix it.you can take stuff apart and clean it up and re grease it and a week later when your tired and the weather is crappy it will break.
 
Tell me about it Peanut.I was hoping it would have lasted longer than 3 years thats when I last replaced it.Well its all in pieces now I gave up due to pain and dizzy spells.Tomorrow is another day Ill pick the part and install it then wait a week or so then replace the u joint when i can move a bit better.Then it should be ready for the winter.If I cant find the spare joint I have on the parts shelf ill have to pick up another joint but this time ill splurge for an oem joint and see what happens.Hopefully with the big tractor it will take a lot off of the RTV and hopefully with the sdjustment i made to relieve the severe braking should take a lot off the joints too.I didnt replace the coast valve just adjusted a few things so hopefully ill be good for at least the winter time.
 
True Art. The aftermarket ujoints for the rear are from a place called atvsuperstore or something like that. there is a link on the" ujoints needed again" thread. I think they are put together and ready to go. They just don't have them for the 2011 xt 900. (at the time I rebuilt my 2011 model anyway.) That is why I went with the overpriced oem joints.
The single driveshaft to eliminate the carrier bearing is sure expensive.
 
Yes plus its easier on the purse to spend 20 to 60 for a new joint instead of 200 for an assembly if you dont need it.The new style drive shaft is well over 400 so ill just keep on with the carrier bearing.In actualaty for what this machine has been put through on a daily basis and yearly basis it holds up quite well.JUst parts like any other speciality vehicle or toy are always expensive.I guess they figure if you can afford to have it you can afford the xtra money for replacement parts plus it boils down to supply and demand.
 
Well Carrier bearing all installed.Thank god it went back together a lot easier than it came apart.Next week if im feeling better ill get the U joint done.At least for now I can do Saturdays Hay ride for the halloween party for the kids.1 down 1 to go
 
Have fun on the Hay Ride Mark. My Son's and friends are going to a Jeep Show Saturday. There will be all kinds of 4x4 games to play. This is my youngest Son's Buggy. Built from a '93 Jeep Cherokee.
 

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Mark.Sibole said:
Yes plus its easier on the purse to spend 20 to 60 for a new joint instead of 200 for an assembly if you dont need it.The new style drive shaft is well over 400 so ill just keep on with the carrier bearing.In actualaty for what this machine has been put through on a daily basis and yearly basis it holds up quite well.JUst parts like any other speciality vehicle or toy are always expensive.I guess they figure if you can afford to have it you can afford the xtra money for replacement parts plus it boils down to supply and demand.
Click to expand...

The reason I asked about the new assembly Mark was cause you have replace them so much you may bent something and maybe starting new would be better in the long run. Just trying to help.
 
bordercollie said:
True Art. The aftermarket ujoints for the rear are from a place called atvsuperstore or something like that. there is a link on the" ujoints needed again" thread. I think they are put together and ready to go. They just don't have them for the 2011 xt 900. (at the time I rebuilt my 2011 model anyway.) That is why I went with the overpriced oem joints.
The single driveshaft to eliminate the carrier bearing is sure expensive.
Click to expand...

Thanks Collie
 
Ive only been through 5 since 2004 Art.It may seem a lot but if you did with your machine what I do with my machine your bound to break something.I dont think these are built to haul close to 100 pounds in the back or yank and tug on 50 foot logs at 12 inches in diamter but I bought it to make it work.If something breaks it is my fault but a joint a season isnt bad IMO for the work it does and the labor it saves me.Others have stated the same as you but they dont realize what I do with it and the work it does.Its like making a small tractor doing the work of a d 8 dozer.Yes it works but yes you break things.But as always I check and inspect all shafts and yokes for any damage to make sure things are straight and not bent or warped.But now with the tractor I have now it will take a huge load off of the Kubota and joints will definatly last longer.E
But I am surprised its only the top joints.Everytime i tear it down and inspect the inner bearings and joints they are rock solid its just the uppers that are doing it.Maybe the 2004 year model??I havn no idea but it is perplexing.
 
Has anybody bought the new rear shafts from Superatv.com. They sell both the front and back. If you buy 2 joints from Kubota or even there site you have 100 dollars just in the joints. My question is since the rear assy. comes in one piece.....I would thing you would have to split the new one at the boot that goes into the trans then use a new band to but back together again?
Anyone here try to do it without splitting it? Would seem hard to me to get the shaft in the tranny without doing this as we all know you have to twist the shaft to get it to line up with the plates in the tranny. Just curious is all.
 
Good point Art. I would think a person would need to do the boot like you were suggesting. Otherwise, it would be a real challenge to get it all lined up and in place.I don't see it happening as one unit . especially the 2 lengths of shaft that goes into the transmission. I'm thinking there would be more working room to do it our old way .. inners first in, then position the bumper tube with outers installed, and crimp the boot. collie
 
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