Newbie Question

D&D Farm

D&D Farm

Gold Site Supporter
Hey all. Have been lurking a bit before and after the purchase of a 05 RTV with 113 hours on it. Having read all of the pages in this particular forums, have gleaned some REAL answers to most questions; but mainly insight into the helpful nature of the folks here. THANKS</P>


1. My dealer advised me that there is no warranty on my particular machine. Then I read in the owner's manual about a 2 year warranty on I believe the driveline. Should he be expected to live up to this?</P>


Currently I have NO issues with this unit. After reading about how the transmission/gearing/traction work arounds on here am TOTALLY satisfied with the way it performs.</P>


2. The fuel filler cap is totally tight throughout when taking it on and off. It doesnt leak; but removing it requires using a oil filter type wrench/device. Is this right? Should the dealer or Kubota do something.</P>


3. What do folks use as spray grease as refered to in the owners manual. WD40? Silicone?</P>


4. We live/raise goats on pretty hilly terrain. 20-25 degree slope in a few places. I am anxious to go sideways when loaded across them. Thanks for the tips about tieing a rope onto the ROPS and rocking it just to see how it does. We have worksite tires and am totally thankful that these work on our loose soil going up the hills without tearing it up. The question: What combination of gear/diff/2-4wd is best for starting and proceeding up a hill with a load in order to minimize tearing up the soil? Say 800 pounds?</P>


I know this is a bunch and I truly thank YOU............Dennis</P>
 
Hello & Good Day,</P>


<FONT color=#ff1493>1.</FONT> If the manual tells you two years, then Kubota will honor it <FONT color=#ff1493>2.</FONT> Kubota is well aware of the Fuel Cap problems, and they will replace it at no cost. Contact your Kubota Dealer, if he acts like he don't know anything about the fuel cap /& or tank /replacement, contact <FONT size=4><FONT color=#ff0000>(310) 370-3370.
</FONT><FONT color=#ff0000>Kubota Customer Satisfaction Department </FONT></FONT></P>


<FONT color=#000000><FONT color=#ff1493>3.</FONT> I use a Teflon base spray myself, they do make a spray grease,( spray grease in fine ) they sell it at tractor dealerships and heavy equipment supply houses . <FONT color=#ff1493>4.</FONT> I myself would run in a low / med range, whatever you feel comfortable with / and a great rule of thumb, if in doubt, keep it in low range, you for sure cannot go wrong there ~~~~ I take it you know about how to run the transmission, and about the secondary pump kicking in at only half pedal down. There is threads on this in this forum.</FONT></P>


HOPE THIS IS OF SOME HELP !!!!</P>
 
I had mine pulling a 5 X 8 X 1 utility trailer loaded with wood going up a 30% dirt and gravel grade with no problem at all. I tried to pull the same load with my Kubota L2250 tractor and all it did was spin the tires.


kas1263 @ 6.5 hours.
 
Welcome to the forum D&D and congrats on getting a RTV.

If you don't have any issues, I wouldn't spend time worrying about the warrantee. If you do get an issue, then it's time to think about it but chances are you won't need it so spend the brain cells thinking about accessories for the RTV instead.

Re. the fuel cap, mine doesn't leak either but like you, it's a bugger to get the cap off sometimes. I can normally get it by hand (giving it all I've got) but I do sometimes have to use a strap wrench to get the cap off. Considering how long I can go without having to give it more fuel, I don't consider it an issue.

For lubricant, I like PB Blaster.

For climbing with a load, my preference is to use L range and get up as much speed as possible before hitting the hill. If/when it bogs down, let off the pedal to get the aux pump to engage. As for 2WD vs. 4WD and/or differential lock, it really depends on your ground conditions. I can climb hills like you've mentioned with 800# in the box and do it in just 2WD (but I have more aggressive tires than the HDWS). With 800# in the back and climbing up hill, you have a lot of traction at the rear axle. As a rule of thumb, I use as few wheels under power as I need. The fewer # of tires spinning via the engine, the easier it is on the engine. In your scenario (climbing with a load), I'd say using the differential lock instead of 4WD may work better. I do use 4WD when coming down hills to avoid skidding/sliding and to provide better engine braking.
 
Thanks Guys............I just keep learning and learning.......didnt realize that the aux pump kicked in in Low as well as High gear.........makes sense but have just never bogged down in L..........I presume that will happen on down the road as I work this machine more and more........gotta move a ton of feed that is coming tomorrow and then square bales of hay after that next week..............</P>


Here in Georgia hay and pasture is REALLY SLIM due to the drought so when you find a good deal you take advantage as much as possible........folks are getting just one cut this year..........</P>


Anyway.......do you just ask for "Grease" spray???............will look for PB Blaster.........</P>


Will live with the cap as it is and just truck on....It does work.......This ol man has few brain cells left due to life in the 60's so you are totally right about thinking about what really matters.......</P>


BC I do like the thought about using as few wheels as possible........it's so easy to just stop spinning......go to a lower gear......kick in the differential......and then go with 4wd kind of in that order.....just wanted to verify that I was doing it right........guess that folks that want the instant gratification of put it in and go never drove a 61 VW uphill and into a head wind.......</P>


IT IS WHAT IT IS........go down a gear and just get there........Thanks.......Dennis</P>
 
oh......by the way............Am sure of the degree of the hills......I have one of those inclineometers that measure the degree of slope both ways mounted to my tractor........HUGE pucker factor there when crossing the slopes when using the tractor........The device is VERY effective when deciding that NO going into that little dip is gonna cause me true grief.........</P>


Took the RTV on those slopes and FELT solid as a rock......NO I didnt go fast but at least now, after testing it with a rope tied to the ROPS, can at least feel great and smile as I work.......NOW I can seed and fertilize the pastures without adding my suplement to the fertilizer mixture...................</P>


Dennis</P>
 
In my original post I refer to "how to test how tippy the RTV is on a slope". I cant tell which thread on this forum discussed this but got it from here. Nor have I had the time to do this yet but it truly makes sense. </P>


Gonna park sideways on the steepest slope I have. Maybe 25 degrees. Then run a rope to a tree not to far away up the slope. Tie the other end to my ROP. Then will rock the RTV to see just how tippy it really is. Am hoping that no matter how hard I try it wont tend to go on over; but the rope will keep it from doing that. This will give me peace of mind on just what is really going on with stability.</P>


Dennis</P>
 
[quote user="D&D Farm"]

oh......by the way............Am sure of the degree of the hills......I have one of those inclineometers that measure the degree of slope both ways mounted to my tractor........HUGE pucker factor there when crossing the slopes when using the tractor........The device is VERY effective when deciding that NO going into that little dip is gonna cause me true grief.........</p>


Took the RTV on those slopes and FELT solid as a rock......NO I didnt go fast but at least now, after testing it with a rope tied to the ROPS, can at least feel great and smile as I work.......NOW I can seed and fertilize the pastures without adding my suplement to the fertilizer mixture...................</p>


Dennis</p>[/quote]
Dennis,

Glad it worked out for you. The center-of-gravity on the RTV is a lot lower than a tractor. You didn't mention what tractor but if it's anything larger than a sub-CUT, I'm sure the COG is lower on the RTV.

Do remember when on that slope that generates the pucker, your testing was done with what sounds like the OEM RTV with an empty cargo box. If you do anything to raise the COG (be it a lift kit or weight in the box or passengers or whatever), the COG is now higher. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security and please do treat that slope with appropriate respect at all times.

Brian

PS. I posted that "rope trick" awhile back. It's an easy way to test to give an idea of how close you are to tipping.
 
Brian............thanks Bud................Yes, I have tried to read all 18 or so pages on this thread....MANY good things posted by you...........</P>


Hmmmmm when on that slope that we are refering to, I suppose it will be easy enough to try the rope ROP test at that time as well................TOTALLY appreciate the advice and kind words......</P>


Today, tried the first heavy load with the RTV........Loaded 14 50lb bags of feed into the dump......and took it for a ride....especially up hill with loose soil........the tractor in the past whether in the bucket or my 3ph utility box would always spin a bit and require the diff. lock..........</P>


THE RTV JUST GOES......plunked that baby into L no differential lock and it acted like it wasnt even loaded.......the rest of the ride was soooooo smooth......the suspension acted like it had nothing on it.......ISNT GOD SO GOOD.............Dennis</P>
 
[quote user="D&D Farm"]Brian............thanks Bud................Yes, I have tried to read all 18 or so pages on this thread....MANY good things posted by you...........[/quote]
That's just because I've been here for awhile. Many members on this forum have lots of great thoughts/ideas. Seat time and tinkering with the RTV is a plus and you'll know the RTV inside and out soon yourself.

[quote user="D&D Farm"]Hmmmmm when on that slope that we are refering to, I suppose it will
be easy enough to try the rope ROP test at that time as
well................TOTALLY appreciate the advice and kind words......[/quote]
You'll know soon enough what the RTV can and cannot do. I'm getting old and have rolled more things than I care to admit, so my pucker factor happens much earlier and I'm not even close to the machines tip point.

[quote user="D&D Farm"]Today, tried the first heavy load with the RTV........Loaded 14 50lb
bags of feed into the dump......and took it for a ride....especially
up hill with loose soil........the tractor in the past whether in the
bucket or my 3ph utility box would always spin a bit and require the
diff. lock..........


THE RTV JUST GOES......plunked that baby into L no differential lock
and it acted like it wasnt even loaded.......the rest of the ride was
soooooo smooth......the suspension acted like it had nothing on
it......[/quote]</p>

Next time, put 22 bags in there. (I'd say to add more but I guess I shouldn't condone exceeding the mfgrs. cargo box limit of 1100#). The results will be the same. I also shouldn't mention that I know many people who have put more than a ton in the box and it kept going without problems. I did have a load of stone in the box that it didn't like dumping one time but it did eventually do it. That load was approx. 2,600#.</p>[quote user="D&D Farm"]ISNT GOD SO GOOD[/quote]
Yep, and so is the RTV.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top