Extreme cold operations of RTV 1100

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learstroker

New member
Hello</P>


I will be operating a RTV 1100 in extreme cold arctic conditions. It will be parked outside, covered and plugged in. I have ordered the block heater. Is it advisable to install a engine pan heater and a transmission heater? Temps could reach -30 F. Has anyone covered their radiator for more operating temp? If so how was it covered? I want to use mobileone 0 W 40 synthetic engine oil. It is for diesels. I would appreciate any tips from a cold weather user.</P>


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Thanks</P>
 
learstroker,

Here's a copy of a post I did in a previous thread. I run pan heaters on the engine and tranny. They definately help. Haven't had to do anything with the radiator but we're not quite as cold as you...

If you live in a northern climate (or elsewhere) where it's cold, you
may want to consider heaters for both the engine and transmission.
On
the engine, they'll definitely help when starting. Even with the
pre-heater for the glow plugs, the engine will start and run much
better if it's warm
On the transmission, in cold temperatures you'll
notice the RTV doesn't have much "oomph" or "get-up-and-go" until the
tranny fluid is warm.

There are several types of heaters but I chose these to heat the oil pans of the engine and tranny.
For the engine, I used a Wolverine Model 9.0
www.wolverineheater.com

Transmission, I used a ProHeat 512
www.proheat.com

For
both types, they're stick-on and then a aluminum putty is provided to
seal the perimeter to avoid any water getting in. Both were installed
to the bottom of the pans.

The reasoning for the 2 different
brands was due to the "footprint" (dimensions) of the heater as well as
their output heat. The selections were based on the available size to
install the heater(s).

Once installed, I ran the wiring up to an
area that's right above and in front of the battery for easy plug-in
and connected both plugs to an ext. cord splitter.

I then have a
24-hour timer that stays on (to keep the time of day correct) plugged
into the wall with an extension cord. When I'm done for the day, I
plug it in. The timer is set to come on for approx. 2 hours each
afternoon, with the 2 hours ending about the time I would be using it
(right after work). When it's below zero, I switch to 3 hours but
normally, 2 hours is enough.
 
I know alot of foks up north that covers there radiators up north on their equipment. I would believe the RTV is no different. Leaving only a small hole for air to flow. If engine startes running a little to warm, open the hole up a little bigger, repeat until you get the proper operating temp you are comfortable with. As you have seen on many highways up north, there are big truck-trailer rigs that cover the nose of their equipment to help regulate operating temp. But personally, I wouldn't cover the radiator up unless it is a have to situation. But like you said, you are in extream Arctic conditions.</P>
 
[quote user="learstroker"]


Hello</P>


I will be operating a RTV 1100 in extreme cold arctic conditions. It will be parked outside, covered and plugged in. I have ordered the block heater. Is it advisable to install a engine pan heater and a transmission heater? Temps could reach -30 F. Has anyone covered their radiator for more operating temp? If so how was it covered? I want to use mobileone 0 W 40 synthetic engine oil. It is for diesels. I would appreciate any tips from a cold weather user.</P>


</P>


Thanks</P>[/quote]This will be my second winter with my 2006 RTV 900.I live in Michigan where temps get pretty chilly,My RTV 900sets in my pole barn which is not insulated and it fires right up with temps -10-15 below zero with no block heater.I think if you leave yours outside you will need some type of heaterI also use mobil one diesel 5w-40 full syn.oil.coobie
 
You can cover the front of the radiatior with a product call " CORA-PLAST ", it is a lightweight sign material that you can pick up at any sign shop. They use for for political signs. Get a blank 18" x 24" piece. Cut it to what demision you need. Cuts with a sharp knife. It's like cardboard, but fully plastic, and has many, many uses. This should run no more than one or two dollars up there. Or, get you a bigger piece if you want, stuff don't cost that much >>>>>>>>></P>
 
[quote user="TWO GUNS"]

You can cover the front of the radiatior with a product call " CORA-PLAST ", it is a lightweight sign material that you can pick up at any sign shop. They use for for political signs. Get a blank 18" x 24" piece. Cut it to what demision you need. Cuts with a sharp knife. It's like cardboard, but fully plastic, and has many, many uses. This should run no more than one or two dollars up there. Or, get you a bigger piece if you want, stuff don't cost that much >>>>>>>>>[/quote]</p>

OK, I'm guilty of not checking it regularly, but isn't there a screen that you can slide out right in front of the radiator?</p>

Using a technique similar to what two guns is doing, you could probably slide the screen out and the cover material in its place.
</p>
 
I certainly appreciate all the help. A fine bunch of folks are on this forum. I have ordered the pan heaters that bczoom recommended. I have approval from Kubota to run the Mobile1 0W-40. I have only ordered my machine. I have yet to try it. I studied one in the show room at Anchorage. The radiator does have the latched screen. I will look into covering this housing.
 
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/cs/Themes/default/images/user_IsOffline.gif learstroker </P>


Just sent you a Private Message, check it out !!!</P>
 
The radiator does have a net screen that is easily removed and could be used as mentioned. It should crank up with no block heater when sitting outside overnight in -10F or so temps...in extreme conditions like this use the glow plugs for 10 seconds and turnover for 10 seconds or less till it cranks up (you might have to repeat this cycle a couple times). So, that said if you experience subzero temps a lot you should get a 40W block heater. The T/M heater wouldn't hurt either as bczoom mentioned (not necessary for all) to get those fluids flowing faster in the T/M.
 
The radiator does have a net screen that is easily removed and could be used as mentioned. It should crank up with no block heater when sitting outside overnight in -10F or so temps...in extreme conditions like this use the glow plugs for 10 seconds and turnover for 10 seconds or less till it cranks up (you might have to repeat this cycle a couple times). So, that said if you experience subzero temps a lot you should get a 40W block heater. The T/M heater wouldn't hurt either as bczoom mentioned (not necessary for all) to get those fluids flowing faster in the T/M.
 
learstroker, keep us up to date how the RTV1100 performs. The 40W block heater will be enough for most folks, but you are way up yonder! Oh, and post up some photos of your unit once you get it all squared away. [H]
 
<FONT size=2>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Acold weather trick my dealer's service guy suggested is to turn the engine over 1 or 2 times before pausing for the glow plugs to heat up. He claimsthis will per heat the fuel mixture to help the engine to fire. It seams to help on my B2150 as well as the RTV.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></FONT>
 
Using the synthetic oil is probably best thing you can do in extreme cold. I don't think we have ever had a 100% definitive answer but the SUDT hydraulic fluid is supposed to be a synthetic or synthetic blend. By all means use it.</P>


I don't think you'll have any trouble starting the engine. It's the cold start damage that you ought to be concerned about. The heaters that bczoom mentioned ought to doa goodjob keeping the fluids warm. The block heater will help some but it won't warm the oil in the pans. </P>


In an unheated piston engine aircraft engine, at -30 F, it is possible to do more wear damage at the start and warm up than in 500 hours of normal operation. The iron and non-iron parts expand at such different rates that the clearances become extreme. If you stop by your local airfield up there you'll see cowl blankets and heaters on most of the active planes during the winter. (The Kubota's obviously not the same but the principle still applies.) </P>
 
[quote user="doggman"]If you stop by your local airfield up there you'll see cowl blankets and heaters on most of the active planes during the winter. (The Kubota's obviously not the same but the principle still applies.) [/quote]
You're not implying that I need to take the blanket off my RTV are you?[*-)] It's bad enough it has to spend the night in a dark, unheated area but to take away it's comfort blanket would make it very sad. After I had my tractor for about 6 months, I thought it was old enough for me to take away its blanket and pacifier but I'll tell you... it wasn't happy about it.[:'(] I conceded, gave the blanket back but didn't return its pacifier.

As Jippy noted, without heaters it'll start with warming the glow-plugs and some cranking. For all my equipment, it's my preference to do whatever is needed to attempt to get an instant start. With the pan heaters, the startup is like a warm summer day. I do run SUDT but I'll tell you that when the tranny fluid is cold (sub-zero), you'll notice the RTV is really sluggish until it warms up some.
 
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