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I doubt you will get many replies documenting similar failures. Kubota has used that basic design on front axles in most all of the larger M series tractors for years with good success. Many of the same parts in that assembly are also used in tractors as far back as the M9000, probably older...

That's interesting. Where is this exciter wheel? Most engine speed sensors read from one of the timing gears or the flywheel ring gear. I'm not very familiar with 1000 series Perkins engines.

Typically there are only two wires involved. The sensor is basically a coil of wire wound around a core. As a gear tooth passes in close proximity to that core it creates a small charge in the coil which is transmitted through those two wires. No outside voltage is needed for that. What happens...

That won't help. The sensor generates a signal which is fed into the system. Joining the wires together will only confuse the issue. I agree that getting it to read properly is probably the next logical step. I don't know the tractor so I can't tell you if the computer is reading from the sensor...

So the tach registers "something" (not necessarily accurately) and then the tractor moves? When it does move how does the shuttle react? If you shift from forward to reverse and back does it change direction smoothly like it should or what happens? If a speed sensor is the problem it should...

The sensor is involved in that the computer monitors engine RPM, ground speed, and probably other internal shafts and gears to compare input and output. Based on that it decides whether or not to engage the transmission, and also to modulate clutch engagement. My impression was the tractor will...

First off, I don't think this is the right site for you. Major traffic here is ATV's not tractors. That said, your two symptoms are probably unrelated. The tach sensor most likely works on magnetic impulses generated by gear teeth passing near a wire coil so it will never see 12 volts from...

I would imagine most all of this is available. You just need to get the tractor serial number and the right page of the parts book. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3242/referrer/navigation/pgId/1618302

John Deere manual (even the often mistrusted I&T version) gives pretty detailed instruction on the valve stack assembly, including the shims. If you own the tractor, why not own the manual? I'm not sure what your interpretation of "more slop" amounts to. A certain amount of movement is...

Hot to touch says you have a leak in there. Possibly one of those O rings, possibly in one of the valves. No way to know from the outside.

What exactly did you buy? A complete unit, valve, casting, piston and all that? Or just a replacement valve assembly? Just a side note. I fought the six O rings in the column for about 4 or 5 hours one day and finally decided I wasn't going to get them into place. The local Deere dealer shop...

Buying a new column was the first mistake. Putting the new valve into the old column was (probably) the next mistake. Go back to the valve assembly you started with and let's revisit that. These days "new" isn't necessarily better.

Assuming this is a 4WD tractor? If so, you might want to crawl under it and look at the driveline shield. It's probably the telescopic tube type. They are well known to cause a squeak or squeal if they get damaged, shoved sideways, etc during use in rough country.

There are at least a half dozen ways to interpret what you're describing, and another half dozen reasons for every one of them. A better description of the problem and some more details will go long way toward getting some meaningful answers. A clicking noise. Where? Behind the dash? At the...

I'm back out there today. Battery was on the charger again. The man thinks he was partly to blame because it's hard to get the charger leads onto the battery and he thinks the connections may have not provided a positive result for the hours of charging he did supposedly following the directions...

Pictures of the injectors don't really help much. Some of the pump might, but yes, your local dealer must have someone they send pumps to and no doubt will share the name and number. Not many dealerships do pump work in house. Your plan to hook the injectors up on the outside is fine. I've...

A neighbor has been pestering me over his Mule not starting lately. He replaced the battery a few months back, then I replaced the starter a month or so after that. It's been starting fine ever since until just last week. I've been over there two or three times since and this is what I found...

No, that's not normal. it has a pump problem, so pulling injectors won't find or solve it. They are just stuck. Not at all uncommon. Don't worry about it. Put the collars and nuts back on, that's not where the problem is. The service manual won't tell you how to work on the pump. That's best...

The term "difficult to shift into reverse" can mean different things. You may have a variety of problems here. The clutch and/or adjustment is only one of them. The clutch adjustment is on a rod connected to the pedal. It's most likely behind a panel and I can't tell you how to access it on your...

The PTO brake is a thin disc that sort of "floats" around the clutch drum. It's clamped by a brake piston that (supposedly) stops the drum rotation when the brake is applied. They aren't all that effective when they work, so your condition may not be unusual. What matters is does the clutch pull...