Hydraulic divider block

where do you get those top divider blocks?i assume you need open ctr spool?

Welcome to NTT Green Yanmar.

The divider (or diverter) blocks are scarce as hen’s teeth. And their original design, when used with ancillary hydraulics like a FEL, prompt the fluid pressure to operate all control through the 2/3PH hand lever control (forward hydraulics operate simultaneously with the rear lift arms).

Are you looking to replace the block to separate controls? Or more simply, trying to achieve two functions from the original hydraulic divider?

We’re here to help if we can.

Mark

i didnt know hens had teeth? to answer the question thou,im tring to feed the loader valve fluid i currently have a line coming from the hp out on the block under the seat to the right of the 3ph stop valve that only works when i have the raise(3ph)selector in the raise position.id like to feed the spool and have everything else work as normal,can ya help me out?

I think on some of the old Kubotas (probably similar to your Yanmar) the owners have cut the pressure line from the pump and added a valve in the middle of it. They then use a power beyond port from the added valve and run that back into the pressure line to the 3pt valve, and run the return back into the reservoir (trans case)
This should make it all work as normal, but the added valve will take priority. If this was a problem you could put a flow divider in in place of the added valve as I mentioned above and put the added valve after that, so the 3pt valve and the added valve work simultaneously.
Clear as mud?

Lou,

If you’ve been battling this problem for awhile then it’s probably been suggested to use the IN/OUT ports on the loader control valve, remove 3” of the high pressure line and splice, braze or use 90° compression fittings at the ends of that cut. Run one hose to the IN port and the other hose to the OUT port. Nothing is needed for the return line. No splice or ’T’ necessary for your return line as this back-feeds to the pump and can shear the pump pin.

The FEL will operate normally and NOT interupt the function of the 3PH. If you need drawings or a picture let me know and I’ll take a few.

Mark

if you have some pics that would be greatly appreciated,i dont really want to cut the line,will use as last option

You could plumb the new hoses in place of the current line, that way you could just bolt the original line back in if you want to return it to stock.
You might have to search a bit to find the right fittings to fit into the pump and the 3ph valve, I'd assume they are metric.
I'm sure Mark will have better ideas with his knowledge of Yanmars.

i never tought of that i was focused on tapping into it as opposed to to "redoing hyd setup" the metric fittings i have purchased as of now have been kinda pricy thou

I cant help with tapping in, but splicing a valve into the pressure line seems to be the 'standard' way of adding a loader.
Take a look at this page about installing a loader.http://www.hoyetractor.com/loaderinstall.htm

G-Y,

I understand your reluctance to cut away three inches off of the high pressure line! Frankly, I was convinced that there has to be a better way than cutting away some of my line, so I tried everything…including buying a separate (good used) 18mm pressure line, welding in ‘T’s for both the pressure and return line, plumbing directly to IN-OUT, or IN-PBY and finally PBY-OUT…it doesn’t work. In each case the pump screamed and was within seconds of shearing the pin, or worse, blowing the pump case.

All of the above was done after I spoke with Koyker and a independent hydraulics specialty shop, both said it should work but it does not!.

Absolutely (positively) convinced I was doing this the right way, I finally talked with four dealers who specialize in Yanmar tractors and parts (including Aaron Murry from Hoye - who’s drawing Mith attached a link to). All of them said, and this defies ALL logic, “Cut and remove 3” of the pressure line ONLY, install 2, 90° x 18 mm compression fittings aimed at the loader control valve, attach two hoses, one at the IN, the other at the OUT and your done….I did, and I was. And I have since done this on three other FEL’s without a single hitch. They work perfectly in conjunction with the rear 3PH.

So, and quite honestly, all you need are 2 fittings and 2 hoses. I bought my fittings from Koyker and they were about $17.50 each (ouch) and the hoses I got from TSC for around $9.00 each.

Sorry, it’s raining too heavy to take pictures…but I’ll take some when it lets up if you still want them.

Mark

defies ALL logic...

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There has to be logic, it just isn't what we expect it to be.

This doesn't work like a faucet. Rather: (and somebody correct me if I'm wrong) The fluid circulates continuously. When you add a loader valve, its purpose is to momentarily choke off the progress of the fluid that normally goes toward the 3-point, and temporarily divert that fluid toward the new hydraulic cylinders, to lift the loader.

Then when you let go of the handle the fluid is trapped in the loader cylinders. The pump's output continues toward the 3 point as if there were no loader valve.

And when you push the handle to lower the bucket, the fluid is allowed to bleed back from the 'lift' side of the cylinders and continue its normal path toward the 3 point. (Simultaneous with this it sends fluid to the 'pressure down' side of the cylinders.)

For me when I visualize the process like that, then designing the plumbing becomes clearer. And it's clear why you don't need to cut the return line.


Hoye's diagram:

That's right California.

All you do by splicing into the PL is extending the loop circuit. When you're convincend it's much more complicated then it actually is, plus a manufacturer and a competent hydraulics outlet has strongly suggested to plumb in the return line And use the PBY...Well, you become confidnet, maybe even certain they just can't be wrong. They are wrong.

It is exactly as you've described as it momentarily diverts fluid to the forward hydraulic cylinders without starving the pump

i find that i overthink things at times and end up confusing myself more than find the solution,the help is appreciated guys and gals.cutting the line just seemed to easy and i didnt want to mess with the stock plumbing like that but like california said it isnt what we expect it to be

hey mark,are the hp lines on yanmars the same?18mm seems kinda big,i own a ym135.i purchased a 18mmx1.5 forged 90' at a local hyd. shop it ran me $26 and now i cant even use it i tried plumbing in to the pluged port in pic(hey my first pic)

green yanmar, I can't help it: Since hens have no teeth, this term in effect says that something is so scarce as to be nonexistent. [Mid-1800s]

mobilus said:

green yanmar, I can't help it: Since hens have no teeth, this term in effect says that something is so scarce as to be nonexistent. [Mid-1800s]

Click to expand...

I assume you refered to this

The divider (or diverter) blocks are scarce as hen’s teeth.

Click to expand...

and the blocks probably *are* nonexistent today.

I think they came as a brazed-up assembly including 4-6 ft of hi pressure line, with each assembly specific to a certain model of American Yanmar, so the import dealers won't have any used replacements and Yanmar-USA probably considered it a 'hard part' of the tractor so never carried replacements. But it shouldn't be difficult to tap into the line as if this were a Japan-model Yanmar, following the Hoye instructions.

hey mark,are the hp lines on yanmars the same?18mm seems kinda big,i own a ym135.i purchased a 18mmx1.5 forged 90' at a local hyd. shop it ran me $26 and now i cant even use it i tried plumbing in to the pluged port in pic(hey my first pic)


Now that you mention it...I don't really know why Koyker (or Aaron) call's them 18mm. I think if I were to throw a micrometer on the pressure line, the O.D. would be much closer to .0625 or 5/8". Maybe they are talking about the hose connector swivel nut size?

The first kit I bought from Koyker was over a $100. which included two 90° compression fittings, two quick dissconnects and a pre-made jumper hose. The hose is necessary should you remove your FEL and still want use your tractor and 3PH. And should you design your loader with spliced 90°'s and need to remove your tractor loader and still use it...you must use a jumper hose between the fittings or the pump pin will shear.

I'd like to make couple comment to clear up a couple things. All of the Japanese tractors I have dealt with have open center hydraulic systems. This means the pump pumps a a constant volume at a specific speed. The oil always need a place to go or the pump can be damaged.

With the diverter block , the passage between the IN & OUT hose on the diverter has to be blocked with a headless plug to work correctly. It has the same affect as taping into the line & plumbing a valve in series. Without the plug it will only work like a teed circuit.

The reason tees don't work is that the oil will take the path of least resistance. This is a very common mistake for people not familiar with hydraulics. On a valve with the PBY plug installed. Plumbing directly to IN-OUT will dead head the pump when the valve is not being used, but if the valve was operated (before the pump broke)it would work correctly. Plumbing directly to IN-PBY the oil would pass directly through the valve , but the valve wouldn't work. Plumbing directly to PBY-OUT with a plug in the IN would dead head the pump.

The best way to plumb a valve is to use the PBY plug. When the valve is being used the exhaust flow does not have to go through the 3 point & over ride the relief valve. It is dumped directly into the rear end.

I wonder if when the "manufacturer and a competent hydraulics outlet has strongly suggested to plumb in the return line" there was a misunderstanding of what they meant.

hey lens12, good to see you here,youve had great info on tbn i love this forum as of yet i think you will to.im going to take a bunch of pics of my project to post so hang tight .ive had a bear of a time tring to figure this hydraulic thing out iknow how i want it to work just having trouble gettig it to were i want it