Need hydraulic help

Ok, finally got the FEL bucket and arms for my YM155 from the previous owner. But I need some assistance from the good folks here. And maybe California since he has almost the identical setup. Anyway, I need to know which hyd line goes to which line on the FEL from the control. I will post photos of my setup in the morning. To late to get any thonight. But they will be detailed closeups. Just dont want to hook up the wrong lines which could be disasterous.

goldchaser said:

Ok, finally got the FEL bucket and arms for my YM155 from the previous owner. But I need some assistance from the good folks here. And maybe California since he has almost the identical setup. Anyway, I need to know which hyd line goes to which line on the FEL from the control. I will post photos of my setup in the morning. To late to get any thonight. But they will be detailed closeups. Just dont want to hook up the wrong lines which could be disastrous.

Click to expand...

I'm out at the ranch now (Sunday) but need to leave by 11am Monday, latest. Post some photos in the morning and I'll match them to what I see.

You probably already know this:
The left control handle is lift (pull) and lower (push). It also has a float position beyond 'lower'.
rt handle: pull to curl in, push to curl out.

This is simple stuff, you don't need to be a rocket surgeon.

California said:

I'm out at the ranch now (Sunday) but need to leave by 11am Monday, latest. Post some photos in the morning and I'll match them to what I see.

You probably already know this:
The left control handle is lift (pull) and lower (push). It also has a float position beyond 'lower'.
rt handle: pull to curl in, push to curl out.

This is simple stuff, you don't need to be a rocket surgeon.

Click to expand...

Yep...running it is not a problem. Can do it in my sleep. Well...almost.
Nope, just need to know what lines go to what lines. Run the daggone things for years, but never fooled with the lines except replacing the occasional line and never had messed with having to hook one up. A small lack in my education.

Ok, CA, here are the photos:
At the side where the connects go to the controller. Then the controllerwith the hoses coming up.

Then a shot of the lines going to the various components of the FEL. Various other shots. Hope they are enough so you can tell what goes where.

Decided to go ahead and get the photos tonight since you were going to go to your place later tomorrow, CA

Wait for CA to confirm, but I'm thinking...

1 = C
2 = D
3 = A
4 = B

Will said:

Wait for CA to confirm, but I'm thinking...

1 = C
2 = D
3 = A
4 = B

Click to expand...

Thanks Will, much appreciated. Once CA confirms. But looking at things, I think you are right. It makes sense...and like CA said...it aint rocket science. Cept to me maybe.

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Here you go. On mine AICO is cast into the control valve just ahead of the top hoses. Otherwise it looks identical.

The ports on the control valve have the following labels cast next to them, with the following applications:

B. Left Rear. Hose meets hard line just ahead of the muffler, then 2 lines go to 'lower', piston rod side, toward back of tractor, of the lift/lower cylinders.

A. Left Front. To 'raise', piston head side, front end, of lift cylinders.

D. Right Rear. Hose goes to second rigid line from the top as it goes along the arm, and its second from front on the crossmember. To 'curl' cylinders upper connectors, piston head side of each cylinder. Curl out.

C. Right Front. Hose goes to top rigid line, then front line across crossmember. Then to curl cylinders lower connectors, piston rod side. Curl in.

PB port on right edge of control valve. (Presumably Power Beyond.) Not used, capped. Does your hose I see there go to a second hydraulic controller? Or maybe your return is attached there. And there's a 'blind', not drilled, nub symmetrically opposite the BP port, over on the left edge of my control valve.

IN. Left front edge of control valve. Larger hose (3/8) goes to lower port on the connector block under the seat.

OUT. Right front edge, control valve. 3/8 hose goes to upper port on same connector block, under seat.

Here are a couple of photos I put in another thread that show the source hoses attached to the In/Out ports on the front of the control. (click to enlarge the first one, or you can't see anything).

http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2519#post2519

A better photo that includes the IN/OUT ports on the front of the control valve. Both hoses go the block under the front of the seat.

California said:

Here you go. On mine AICO is cast into the control valve just ahead of the top hoses. Otherwise it looks identical.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the fill in on the hookups. Wont be able to get out there till this afternoon to try hooking things up. "Shewhomustbeobeyed", my wife, has decreed that I will stay inside off my foot, with it elevated. She took great exception to me walking on it yesterday, even if it was just for a few minutes.

So, to keep peace and harmony in the family I gotta concede. Till this afternoon when she will be gone for a couple of hours.

If she's going to town see if she can stop by a thrift store and get you a $5 pair of crutches. BTDT. But stay off that foot!

California said:

A better photo that includes the IN/OUT ports on the front of the control valve. Both hoses go the block under the front of the seat.

Click to expand...

The side ports on the control go back to a splitter set just front of the shifter which in turn goes to the auxilary port off the tranny under the seat. Will take some more photos this afternoon and trace the lines from there to the control. Plus see if I can get some better views of the top of the control to show the casting.
I am going to have to shift the hoses going to the auxillary port because they are in the way where they sit right now. Dont understand why they were installed the way they are. You will see what I mean in the photos this afternoon.

California said:

If she's going to town see if she can stop by a thrift store and get you a $5 pair of crutches. BTDT. But stay off that foot!

Click to expand...

I got a pair already. And she threatened to wrap them around my head. She caught me outside taking those photos last nite. It was not a purty picture.

The side ports on the control go back to a splitter set just front of the shifter which in turn goes to the auxiliary port off the tranny under the seat.

Click to expand...

I wonder if that splitter fed a third control valve that ran a hydraulic top link or something. Does the splitter now have a feedback loop between two of its ports to replace that third valve?

California said:

I wonder if that splitter fed a third control valve that ran a hydraulic top link or something. Does the splitter now have a feedback loop between two of its ports to replace that third valve?

Click to expand...

Dont know. Will check it this afternoon and let you know.

Wasnt able to get out and work on the tractor today. Wife kept too close a watch on me. And then this afternoon had to go pick up one son for a doctors appointment for him, so things are put off now till tomorrow.

Ok all, got the other photos I said I would get. Hope this helps CA.

Shows the lines going from the rear to the splitter and then where they go from there....I hope.

First will be the rear connection on the right side under the seat and then forward.

Oh, and CA....The FEL has 1220 printed on the side arms. Pretty hard to see from fading but definately 1220.

Ok, yours is plumbed identical to mine. The description in post #7 is valid.

There are some minor differences in appearance:

1) I described a connector block under the seat. On yours the same connector block is 6 inches forward of the seat and bolted on top of the transmission tunnel.

Its purpose: pressure coming from the pump is diverted from there to serve the loader. Normally (when you aren't lifting anything) it goes right through the loader's control valve and continues back through that connector block to the input port for the 3-point lift under the seat.

2) The rubber lines from that connector block to your loader's control valve enter the loader valve using its optional side IN/OUT ports instead of the primary IN/OUT ports on the front edge of the valve. Just a difference in appearance, not function.

Posts 14 and 15 above are incorrect, ignore them. I thought you had discovered a second connector block but there's only one.

In the pictures I don't see anything that needs to be re-routed. If it worked that way for years I would get it running before changing anything.

In the previous pictures it looks like the hard lines were open and not capped for a while. I would blow them out from the opposite ends (disconnect something) to blast the spiders out, before use!

You did good getting that tractor. Here's one on Craigslist. He wants $5,500.

California said:

Ok, yours is plumbed identical to mine. The description in post #7 is valid.

There are some minor differences in appearance:

1) I described a connector block under the seat. On yours the same connector block is 6 inches forward of the seat and bolted on top of the transmission tunnel.

Click to expand...

Thanks for getting back to me. None are ever giong to be identical.

California said:

Its purpose: pressure coming from the pump is diverted from there to serve the loader. Normally (when you aren't lifting anything) it goes right through the loader's control valve and continues back through that connector block to the input port for the 3-point lift under the seat.

2) The rubber lines from that connector block to your loader's control valve enter the loader valve using its optional side IN/OUT ports instead of the primary IN/OUT ports on the front edge of the valve. Just a difference in appearance, not function.

Posts 14 and 15 above are incorrect, ignore them. I thought you had discovered a second connector block but there's only one.

Click to expand...

Ok, now I understand what you were seeing or thought I was seeing I should say.

California said:

In the pictures I don't see anything that needs to be re-routed. If it worked that way for years I would get it running before changing anything.

Click to expand...

Well, the hoses from the divider block the differential lock pedal. As stiff as they are it is difficult to move them out of the way and are quite frankly a pain in the

California said:

In the previous pictures it looks like the hard lines were open and not capped for a while. I would blow them out from the opposite ends (disconnect something) to blast the spiders out, before use!

Click to expand...

Yea...I had planned on that. Considering all the dirt and critters I found in every possible opening in the tractor I expected no less on the FEL.

California said:

You did good getting that tractor. Here's one on Craigslist. He wants $5,500.

Click to expand...

Went and looked at that ad. Looked pretty much the same as mine. Cept he did have a tiller. <sigh> Thats about the one thing I am lacking for this that I can really use come spring. That one you got seems to be working pretty good from the photos you posted in the other thread. Just hoping I can get lucky and find one that will work with mine.

Hey CA, you are not going to believe this. Had my sons outside with me this afternoon to connect the bucket to the tractor. And with your great help, had the connections all mapped out and ready to go. Blown out all the lines. And set the legs at the tractor and realized..........I was missing the 4 pin bolts for the joints. <sigh> Called around the area, wife checked the dealers in town..and no one had the bolts of the right size that were keyed as needed for carter keys. Okay, next step. The only thing I can think of is if someone here knows a dealer that might have them that I can buy from and have em shipped, or else I will just make my own. I can get bolts that are close in size I guess and either turn em down on the lathe and then drill a keyhole or if I can find a bolt that will fit just cut and drill the keyhole.
I do know machining and I do have the equipment, but either option has its disadvantages. If I order them...will have to wait for em to get here. If I make em, it will take time standing by the lathe and the mill that I would rather not. Well, anyone know a dealer that might have em? If no luck by noon tomorrow then I will just go ahead and make them.

Okay, question for those that know metal. Do you guys think that I could get away just using cold rolled steel or should I just get a hardened bolt and work from there. I have some steel that is close in size that I can just turn down pretty easily. But it is cold rolled. And I am concerned about stressing it and it warping or otherwise deforming under use since those joints are fairly high stress areas. Course with this size of FEL and the capability of it, it wont be working with the high weights of a larger tractor. Thoughts guys? I know I could just get close with a bolt and a nut but I want to maintain the appearence and without the bolt heads and nuts sticking out either side.

Suggestions?